Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Last week
  2. Hi, I'm very very new to the weasel world, but n ive owned a gpw, m151a2, m35a2, and multiple versions of the hmmwv. I am looking for a weasel that I can build into what I want. But mostly restore. But I need it to be amphibious. I can fix some repairs to metal work and even engine work. I'm not afraid of a project. I do have several m1025a2 GMV hmmwvs in various configurations that I can trade. They all run and drive, and are titled for on road use in NC already. The weasel I would get would need to be in the US, preferably on the east coast. Thank you, Corey 9102582099
  3. I had plans to further assemble the final drive. Unfortunately I have misplaced/lost three of the woodruff keys that secure the planetary gears. Another delay. I did manage to finish the rear engine divider panel.
  4. sorry larry did not know you were in Canada
  5. Yes i have been watching that one but that is 125.00 USD so i have to add 30% or more plus that is shipping to US destination. But thanks for sending me the info. Larry
  6. Larry I just looked on ebay there is one for sale NOS for 125 + 20 shipping
  7. Thanks Dan for the pictures that helps me out greatly. I checked with Dave and he has no more mufflers left but i see one on ebay its 165.00 canadian and shipping is almost 40.00 so i feel that is a bit over my budget so i will look for a domestic one for now, besides you won't see much of it after the muffler gaurd is on. Larry
  8. Hi Larry sorry for taking so long to get those measurements for you on the front gun mount. I took some pictures with some measurements hopefully they help you out
  9. Take a small punch and put it inside one of the screw holes and try and tap it loose. You should be able to just catch the edge of the seal (and not damage the threads) if you are careful. Otherwise, you could tack weld a little bead in a couple of places to grab with the pipe wrench or grind a flat as suggested above.
  10. looks kind of bastardized. maybe if you grind some flats on the edges of the tapered part you ca get a better grip with the pipe wrench. the whole thing looks very odd.
  11. ok thanks Guys but I tried prying with a screw driver, tried pulling with channel locks and tried unscrewing with a pipe wrench but there is nothing to grab onto..I popped off the hub on the front idler wheels and immediately saw the hex nut as should be and easily removed it but the drive wheels...im not sure who did what here to attach the drive wheels.
  12. Loaded up the hull and took it into the sandblasters this morning. Have to wait a month to get it back. Joys of living in a small town!
  13. Earlier
  14. @OZM29C Outstanding! Coming along quite nicely. I am looking forward to seeing it driving again!
  15. @OZM29C Very interesting John. I would not be surprised if this repair was done by the military. The repair was reasonably well carried out - workmanlike but not fussy. They reskinned the sponson from the "bow" to the bulkhead - and likely arc welded it along the seams. The front seam looked almost factory....the others were both less visible and less pretty. Most of the area was cut away by the time I got the Weasel , but the corrosion is really bad in the area. As in the case of your Weasel, the doubled skin seems to have increased the rate of decay.
  16. The inner engine bay panel has had the felt retaining staples removed and multiple holes were drilled to secure the felt with fasteners. This modification was done long before I got the panel. Rather than try to weld up the multiple holes I decided to just fabricate some retaining strips and retaining rings to better hold the felt and rubber extrusion. Not original but will do the job.
  17. @Patrick Tipton Interesting comment about floor skinning. Do you think it was a Military repair? One of the T24 hulls that I worked on was reskinned. The job was very professional. Unfortunately the skin accelerated the corrosion. BZ on the sheet metal work👍
  18. The painting roadshow goes on. The following photos are just a snapshot of what has been painted.
  19. Again it is good to use @Rob W Rob Walsh's excellent repo female plug sockets. In this photo they are installed with the wiper/fuel tank sender wiring harness.
  20. The dashboard is starting to come together nicely. A few more items of Jewellery need to be added to finish it off. Again I used a rubber extrusion to seal the engine cover in lieu of the original canvas. The female socket plugs are from @Rob W Rob Walsh. Rob kindly forwarded the sockets to Vintage Wiring of Maine ( I believe that the business has been sold on to these fellows; https://vintagewiring.com/) where they incorporated the sockets into a new wiring harness. There is a rectangular cut out in the dash panel that is used for the modified accelerator linkage.
  21. Another big weekend of work on the weasel. The engine cover is finished. The stencils came from https://www.axholmesigns.co.uk/ All of the data and ORD plates were missing on my weasel so I had new plates made back in 2000. My plates are not the Polish repos seen on Ebay. I substituted a rubber extrusion for the engine cover seal in lieu of the original canvas seal. I did have a NOS seal but when I tried to unroll it, it just cracked into pieces rendering it totally useless. The Rubber seal is not original but it is very practical.
  22. More progress on the cleanup and starting to think about repairs and the assembly sequence for the new side. The front floor and bow section around the drivers compartment had been reskinned at some point. Lots of extra welds and sheet metal that needed to be removed. Underneath, there are a few doublers that need to be repaired, but overall the metal is in fine condition. I cleaned up two of the 4 vertical hat channels - I will prime the flanges (at spot weld locations) with hi-zinc. I like the rust converting primer better for the areas that will not be welded. This is an untouched section of the inner hat channel. I amazes me that any metal is still shiny and clean after 77 years. I have seen discussion over the years that the entire hull was dipped in linseed oil prior to paint. Perhaps this process explains it. I am going to wire wheel the cavity and prime it before putting the side back on.
  23. T24- 582 for sale, running/ operating, unrestored condition. Norwegian ? placards. French tracks with added belts. Have some extra parts $14,000 also have one NOS track available. Located in central New York
  24. These pictures really give a good view of basic hull structure of a Weasel. For those of you contemplating a similar project, it really is not so bad. Note that the sides of the upper hull are just lapped over the lower hull. This means that within reason, the shape of that overlap (ie the side below the floor) is not particularly important - which means that fitting the side will be easy as long as the floor/sponson width is bent correctly. I "overcut" and cut a little of the lower hull sheet metal when I cut through the weld seam - no problem because it is double thick with the inner hat channel and I will add metal back when I weld the lap joint. Overall, the hat channels are in nice shape. The pressings that make up the front and rear of the center tunnel of the hull are pretty pitted, but are still fine for the use that this hull will get moving forward. I will treat the metal. I am still thinking about using a good seam sealer in here just to help minimize the opportunity for moisture in these areas.
  25. This is how the oil seal with housing, that Patrick is talking about, looks like. The picture is showing it from the backside. You should be able to pry it off.
  26. Just PM me your shipping details and will get you a quote on the total and payment details.
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...