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  1. Yesterday
  2. I need to do a little bracket adjusting and then a little leading to repair a couple of prior repairs, but...the back panel is very close to finished. I am going to run out of things to repair pretty soon.
  3. Last week
  4. I have this piece of tin it was laying in the hull and i don't know where it goes its 6 1/2 in at one end the other end is cut at about 15% angle and is 7 1/2 in the length is 12in long on one side and 10 in long on other side it ha 2 holes broken out any idea Larry
  5. Many thanks John. As you know all too well - labor of love. It is truly strange that they were cut off like this....a restorer would presumably have cut the tabs too....who knows! 😀 I got the axe brackets almost finished last night...couple more welds and the footman's and it will be finished.
  6. @Patrick Tipton Patrick, again brilliant work. Your attention to detail raises the bar on weasel restoration. Why would someone go to the trouble of cutting the brackets off???? I have seen them crushed and torn off but to cut them off????
  7. I finally finished flattening the rear panel although I still have a little "leading" to do. Lots of hours but I think it came out pretty well. The good news is that with a shovel and axe mounted, no one will be able to see it anyway! The tabs for the mounting brackets were all left in place so I have been fabricating new brackets, cutting off my handmade mounting tabs and TIGing the new brackets in place. Very fiddly work.
  8. haha I hear ya. I am thinking I will need quite a few made. I may try it for myself and see where I land. May be a fun project for me and my students.
  9. The video alone is worth the $$ Dan
  10. I am going to rebelt the one for sure, and keep that one original. However... I have some toxic dreams about doing sacrilegious things to the other. I think having that particular one in modern tracks will be a necessity. I wont hijack this thread any further on that though. Thanks for the info!
  11. At one time 2017 the Staman tracks which are similar were around 7K US not including shipping New LAR Tracks 14K Cheapest way is to re belt the tracks on the original pads. New road pads go along way in preventing track grousers from breaking. This subject has been beat to death there is thread on the G503 forum about this. Dan
  12. Tom Howell had some poly bogeys made for his T15 he has some pictures on this site . How many do you need? I asked Dave (DRH) how much it would cost out of curiosity in hopes he would give some insight here on the site to those who need them made. At the cost of say 40.00 per wheel it seems if a small amount needed I would buy NOS if you need lots of them then having them made may be a cheaper route. Like anything weasel Ka Ching Ka Ching $$$$
  13. Guys, I have a nice set of late 20" track for sale. These originally came with my weasel, I ran them for two seasons in the snow and then worked with Mike Howard to develop the LAR track. After that I no longer needed them. Since then, they have been sitting in my shop on two pallets on pallet racks, properly stored on edge, with large radius bends. The bands are original BF Goodrich Rubber which is has some cracks in the rubber... BFG tracks commonly have some cracks by now, and the compound has a higher durometer than the Mondajlen Rubber bands from Norway and I believe they are a li
  14. Guys, I have a new set of LAR track, these have not been used. They have been stored properly on edge in a container and are on two pallets ready to ship. I have two sets of these and don't need two sets. Price is $12K New LAR track is $14K if you have any detailed questions give me a call at 208 845 0823 This is a google voice number that patches through to my cellphone. If you don't get me directly leave a message and your phone number. Thanks, Rob
  15. I machined the bushings to suit from stock bronze. A very simple job for a capable machinist.
  16. What are you charging to recondition a bogey?/ are you? I was already thinking about going this route with mine. making poly molds and recasting the bogeys, but it would save me one heck of an education on getting that compound right (I have only ever done this to resin cast) if it meant writing a check that was cheaper then buying them nos off ebay at 75 a pair. Thanks!
  17. Earlier
  18. Here is all in one bearing/race/seal chart that I've put together for future reference for anyone that may be looking through manuals and searching for this info. Im still needing some info on U joints and a few oil seals though. Item Description Quantity Needed Ord Number Studebaker Number Timken Number SKF Number Koyo Number Bogie Bearing 32 705371 SD-511587 9078 Bogie Cup/Race 32 706806
  19. you can weld up the old shafts and turn them down. I had to do this on several and works well. Also if not a machinist any decent machine shop can remake those shafts no sweat! Mine were worn where the bearing froze up and ate into the shaft. Dan
  20. @04mustangJohn will chime in ...FYI Mustang if you tag him by using the @ sign and his name @OZM29C , he will get a notification. ...and money says he made them! 😀
  21. John, I have to ask, where did you find the return roller bushings and shafts? I do believe I will end up needing to replace at least 2 if not all 4 of the shafts on my M29C because they appear to be bent from over tension of the tracks.
  22. Thank you Sir!, I already had purchased it from you some time back, just didn't have it with me at the time I was typing yesterday. I spent some time a dug through both manuals and found the chart you referenced. It is a bit confusing but I worked through it with the group numbers.
  23. @04mustangAs an alternative to the return roller needle bearing, I have fitted bronze bushings. This mod was done to the Australian Weasels operating in Antarctica. This mod also allows you to fit a wider bushing (on one side only) to more evenly distribute the load. The take out return roller shafts that I have all show extreme wear in way of the needle rollers. The needle rollers don't take too kindly to lack of lubrication and being exposed to water/moisture. Just a thought. I have attached a couple of photos for you to study. Cheers Return roller gasket.pdf
  24. FWIW - the early ORD 789 G154/179 does have the Timken Numbers....they are only cross referenced to the Group so the chart itself is not useful without the rest of the book - you have to go to the Group Number and locate the Timken Number there (usually in a parenthesis...) Here is the download: and we sell a nice reprint if you want the printed and bound version: https://www.portrayalpress.com/product-p/ord-789-g154.htm
  25. Bogey Wheel Bearing Part # Bearing 09078 Race 09194 Return rollers are needle bearings 2 per wheel . I use Koyo brand T0116P532533 . Yamulla at Military Vehicle Supply has them I got the koyo brand from a local supplier Price to re bearing a complete M29 weasel around 800 to 1000.00 + Dan
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