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  1. I have been at the painting game for 3 days....painting a Weasel is a ton of work. The biggest issue is getting all the restoration debris out of the hull - really a pain. We must have vacuumed this hull 50 times, plus blow it out, flip it over, etc. I still managed to dump a bunch of sandblasting residue into the matte clearcoat so I have some repairs yet to do. The inside and bottom of the hull is finished thru clear cloat...with a lot of flattener so there is a little gloss, but not much. There are a couple of areas that need a little fixing, but it is supposed to rain tomorrow so I am going to get the hull back on springs and off the rotisserie and back in the shop. I am also going to start laying out the camo so I can paint a really flat clear coat on Sunday/Monday and call it a day. There is still a lot to do, but it is nice to see the hull in white! IMG_8486Small.mov
    6 points
  2. @Patrick TiptonAfter 22 years and 3 months I finally drove the weasel out of the shed under its own power. I am relieved that the marathon restoration is finally drawing to a close. IMG_3784.MOV
    5 points
  3. Attached are a series of drawings that I have made over the years to help with the restoration of my Weasel. Feel free to share and use them but please be aware that there may be some dimensional mistakes/errors in them, so if it is at all possible, double check the dimensions. To covert to the old imperial measurements, just divide the metric millimetre dimension by 25.4. That will give you decimal inches. Cheers John W. Bottom Plate - Dry Air Cleaner Mod.pdf Top Plate - Dry Air Cleaner Mod.pdf Capstan Winch - Cable Bracket - Floor.pdf Capstan Winch - Cable Bracket.pdf Capstan Winch - Cable retainer Bolt - Clamping collar.pdf Capstan Winch - Cable retainer Bolt - Clutch Actuator.pdf Capstan Winch - Upper drive shaft.pdf Fuel Tank channel without bend radius.pdf Part1- Capstan Drive Sleeve.pdf T24 Crank Support.pdf T24 Towing eye stiffening plate.pdf Universal Joint Dimensions.pdf Water pump bearing.pdf Weasel Capstan Drive flange.pdf Weasel Capstan Shaft - Clutch to Uni.pdf Weasel Rudder cable end.pdf (2).pdf Weasel Seat belt retaining clamp-1.pdf 90565A360_GRADE 8 STEEL HIGH HEX NUT.pdf Flotation Tank Washer.pdf Pipe Nipple - Weasel fuel tank drain.pdf Return Roller shaft.pdf Weasel Front Axle Sheet 1 .pdf Weasel Front Axle Sheet 2 .pdf Weasel Front Axle Sheet 3 .pdf Windscreen frame retainer screw 2.pdf Windscreen frame retainer screw.pdf Wiper motor gasket.pdf Pin - Capstan universal joint to drive flange.pdf Pin Capstan drive shaft sleeve SD900484.pdf Transmission Mount.pdf Weasel Capstan Drive flange.pdf Control Rod Lengths - Page 236.pdf Marker Lamp Riser Conduit.pdf Rudder Pin as Measured.pdf Weasel Idler Drive wheel gasket.pdf Final drive hull drain hole plate.pdf Final drive hull drain hole.pdf
    4 points
  4. Finally got some time to do some small things on the weasel again.
    4 points
  5. Today was Weasel electrical work day. The job is not quite finished yet. I had initially prewired the instrument panel. First off I had to lay the instrument panel in an accessible position next to the dashboard and then temporarily connect the two main wiring harnesses to ensure everything is correct before removing the wiring harnesses and then installing the instrument panel in position where it is next to impossible to get access to check the wiring.
    4 points
  6. I have gone through all the parts catalogs, TM's and articles about the weasel and compiled a list of all the production changes that I could find. The list is by no means a conclusive list of all the changes that happened during the weasel production run, so I would very much like people the chime in if you have anything to add or if you find any errors in my list. The one that are in red text are the ones that I'm unsure about and would like to have confirmed. I hope this list will be useful to anybody restoring a weasel to factory specs. All production changes follow the ordnance serial number, found on the data plate behind the driver seat, and all changes came into effect on the serial number after the one stated in the list. 807: Oil seals instead of just gaskets are now installed on the drive sprocket shafts. 1002: The heater switch is no longer installed. The ignition switch is changed to a three position switch. The radiator is changed to one with large capacity. The fan shroud is changed The fuel filter is moved from the front coaming next to the fuel tank to in front of the radiator on the right hand side. Grease fittings are installed for lubrication of the bogie wheel shafts. Shims are now installed on the bogie wheel shafts to aid in setting bearing pre load. The engine compartment divider panel is changed to a two piece design. A canvas seal is installed around the gear shift shafts in the engine compartment side panel. The radio terminal box changes location. The radio antenna cable on the left side of the hull is no longer installed. Name change from T24 to M29. 2102: Track deisgn is changed, 20" tracks are installed. Track skirts are now installed. The pintle hook is changed to none swiveling type. An H plate is installed on the gear shift lever assembly. A guide bracket is installed on the engine for the gear shift rods. The compass is no longer installed. The voltmeter is no longer installed. The hand crank is no longer installed. The demolition charge is no longer installed. The drivers hand hold is no longer installed. The cargo partition is no longer installed. The installation of the bogie support arm is changed. The bogie wheel yokes change design to being cast instead of shaped from sheet metal. The extra rebound bumpers on the two middle traverse springs are no longer installed. The design of the traverse springs is changed. The idler wheel is changed to a split type design. Oilers are installed on steering lever shafts. Grease fittings are installed in the guide wheels. 2197: The transmission cover gets a breather hole. 2365: Change of the safety clip in the clutch. 3102: The hand crank hole is no longer installed. A transmission service access panel is installed in the rear floor. The search light is no longer installed. A fixed headlight is now installed. The battery is changed from one 12 Volt to two 6 Volt wired in series. The location of the fire extinguisher is changed from the back to the front of the vehicle. More grease fittings are installed in the bogies. The brush guard design is changed, and can no longer be folded down. The top back curtain is now a separate piece. 3132: All weasels are now painted OD instead of camouflage white and black. All canvas parts change colour from white to OD. 3331: The radio interference filter on the generator regulator is changed to a condenser. The generator to regulator electrical harness is changed to a shielded type. 3449: The track tension springs are changed to a 7 leaves design. An oil drain plug is now installed in the differential housing on the left side. 3601: The fuel pump is changed from a two valve type to a six valve type. The air cleaner is change to the oil bath type. 4102: Name change from M29 to M29C. Flotation tanks are now installed. The guide wheel shafts are now replaceable and no longer welded to the guide wheel mounts. The canvas seal around the gear shift shafts in the engine compartment panel change colour from white to OD. Stretcher brackets are now installed. 4935: Lubrication free bushings are now installed in the clutch pedal shaft. 5476: Grease fittings are installed in the drive wheel hubs. 8141: Seat belts are no longer installed. 9402: The text ”LIFT HERE” is now painted next to the lifting holes. 9502: The mechanical fuel pump is no longer installed. Electric fuel pump installed in the fuel tank is now installed. A new tool to check the track tension, by the use of a torque wrench, is now introduced. 10922: A warning placard is added about the use of the clutch. 11575: An opening is now in cut the left hand radiator support panel to aid in air circulation. The design of the canvas seal around the gear shift shafts in the engine compartment side panel is now changed to a metal and felt design. 12325: The differential drain plug is changed to magnetic type. 13199: The transmission drain plug is changed to a magnetic type. 13560: The design of the clutch control linkage is changed. Drive wheel carrier brace rods are installed. The fuel tank is changed from a metal tank to a self sealing type. A ground wire is installed on the electric fuel pump. 14229: Reinforcement rings are now installed on the drive wheels. 14682: The light switch design is changed to the rotary type. Blackout drive light is now installed. around. 14999: (Planned, but not executed) Track tension spring design is changed from leaf spring to coil spring. 15126: Weasel production ends, 1945.08.29. around. 15562: (Planned, but not executed) A scraper is installed on the drive wheel carrier to keep dirt and debris out of the drive wheels. ca. 15681: (Planned, but not executed) A handbrake is installed.
    3 points
  7. @F.JanssenThe Caterpillar seal is the best after market option for the outer seals. See photo 1. The alternative to the Cat seal is a Federal Mogul National oil seal that I have highlighted in the attached Word doc. Please be aware that this seal is only 6.35mm (1/4"Inches) wide and may need a spacer to ensure that the seal sits in the right position on the shaft. Last but not least, NOS seals Good luck finding them>>>>> The inner seal in the rear hubs is as per photos 2 and 3. Pay particular attention to the orientation of the new seal in the retainer. Finally there is a felt seal fitted in the final drive housing. I don't know where to get them but the photos will give you some ideas on what and how you can make them. Federal Mogul National Oil Seals - Hub Seal Alternative.docx
    3 points
  8. My weasel adventure started 35 years ago. My dad owned an army surplus store, and was interested in getting a tracked vehicle. The weasel was the smallest track you could get, so that was picked. He located the blue weasel you see in the picture below, that is me in the driver's seat and my brother in back on the weasel the day we bought it. My dad actually bought 2 at the same place, same time, the blue one ended up being ours, the other weasel was traded to a mechanic friend of ours to help restore the blue weasel, as my dad also had a full time police job at the time, and he did not have a garage or time to restore himself. Right after this picture was taken, we tried to load it up on our trailer. The track snapped the second we attempted to load it. The first lesson on weasels was learned. I worked with my dad and the mechanic restoring the weasel, many many months of drilling track rivets, sandblasting lights and hardware, much more, but this was a long time ago..
    3 points
  9. Another new weasel owner here 🙂 from Denmark. I am looking forward to take part in the forum and learn from all of you. mine is a fine runner only in need of cosmetic care at the moment, new top and seat have been ordered. regards Thomas
    3 points
  10. Hello. Tag pictures attached. Plate not readable,
    3 points
  11. Please add Hull number M29C 2327 to list, no S/N , No military number. Location Wiarton, Ontario Canada. Was modified with a 1951 Chev engine and 2 speed tranny. No float tanks or float accessories. 15" tracks Owned since 2010, Previous owner got it in Nevada.
    3 points
  12. Lately I have been working on a way to replace the nonexistent rubber on some return rollers. I noticed some of these parts had previously been replaced with rubber strips and adhesive. It seems it bonded well only thing the years were not kind to the rubber. I have material and adhesive on order so now we were touching up a slightly bent and dented rim. I cleaned the rim with the wire wheel then with plumbing flux and 50/50 solder tinned the rim in the area of the dent. Very much like how Patrick filled the imperfections on his Weasel hull. After filling and smoothing twice it is close enough for now. I think the contact cement will fill the small voids left. Fred
    2 points
  13. Herewith the pictures of the caps:
    2 points
  14. Greetings. Since the demise of the Weasel forum, it seems that most of the discussion around Weasel restoration has moved to Facebook. While it is nice that there is a place to find and share with other Weasel enthusiasts, I think the format offered by Facebook leaves a lot to be desired. Most importantly, posts quickly get buried and while Facebook has search features, I think the "traditional" forum approach is superior. I personally find it difficult to find information and see that most of these groups end up with the same questions and discussions over and over again. I also don't like that Facebook's algorithms are more concerned with showing ads than showing relevant information and unless you specifically check out your groups, many posts will not show up on your timeline. So while I think there is a good reason to continue to post and play on groups like the G179 on Facebook, I feel like the Weasel community needs its own active forum to provide important resources to Weasel collectors and restorers. I created Project Plough.org to serve this purpose. I have been a part of the launch and maintenance of other forums, including the successful N Tractor Club - a site dedicated to the Ford N series tractors (1939-1952). As forum technology evolved, I also learned that forum administrators don't want to be in the internet security business or the forum support business. These tasks are increasingly complicated and require full time attention. Fortunately, there are companies that will host forums like this one and they have dedicated staff to watch for internet bad guys and keep things running smoothly. They aren't perfect, but they are certainly better than I will ever be. The upside is that this forum is backed up daily. All of the technical aspects, including security, are managed by the folks who wrote the software. Importantly, this means that the information that gets shared and created will be here as long as the site is running and in the event that something bad happens, it will be easy to get a working copy of the site back up and running. A little background on me. I am the owner of Portrayal Press. We have been around since about 1980 and the founder, Dennis Spence, was very involved with the creation of the Military Vehicle Preservation Association (Member #1) and also the founding of Military Vehicle Magazine. I took the business over when he retired and have been trying to ensure that the massive amount of information and manuals that he collected continue to be made available to enthusiasts and restorers. I also publish a weekly series of videos called ShopTime on YouTube. I restored a 1943 Willys MB over the last several years and just started a T-24 restoration in January. I will be posting regularly to this forum to document the T-24 restoration and share the information that I am learning as I do the restoration. Patrick
    2 points
  15. @F.JanssenThe return roller seal is the same as the bogey wheel seal. The modern equivalent is SKF CR 12391. Details here from one of the many suppliers; https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p305327/SKF-CR12391-Single-Lip-Nitrile-Rotary-Shaft-Seal-1.25x1.938x0.25-inch/product_info.html I have attached a drawing of the gasket for you as well. Contact me when you are ready to replace the bogey wheel seals. There are some excellent documents out there that you should refer to when installing these seals. I have attached a number of photos that may be of help to you. In my case I have fitted bronze bushings in the Return roller in lieu of the needle roller bearing. This was a common modification for weasels operating in Antarctica. Weasel Bogey wheel seal gasket.pdf
    2 points
  16. @Patrick Tipton I know the feeling. I too thought that I had gotten all the sand out after blowing, vacuuming and spinning the hull on the rotisserie more times than I can remember. Anyway after the primer had dried I turn the hull upside down and blew out all the hat channels that had any small opening where I could stick the nozzle of the blow gun in, and I got another few kilos of sand out off them. So the next step was to paint all the areas that needed to be OD. I again used a product from the TM-9 range, their synthetic enamel lusterless Olive Drab – Shade #8. I really like this paint as it has good coverage, is dead flat and is very easy to spray. Since this is going to be a Bandvagn m/48, I did not paint the whole hull OD. This is because the refurbishment instructions from the Swedish army, that I have, states that the whole vehicle shall be painted in Swedish army gray no. 076M. But looking at both this hull, before I removed all the paint, and the other m/48 I have it looks like they did not strip out the hull before painting. So I decided to mimic this and paint those areas that are normally covered in OD. I have not put the gray paint on yet as I need to finish all panels and covers first. That is were I'm at right know, but here is a teaser of what's to come.
    2 points
  17. I have fitted a standard N70ZZ single battery to the weasel which although is not OEM is far more practical. Where the second battery should go I made a wooden storage box to the same size as the battery. Last but not least I had to shorten the battery retainer by 30mm to accommodate the smaller battery. Don’t worry the battery retainer is a repo.
    2 points
  18. Next is making the boggies straight in alignment. Mike Howard and Troy at Liberty made it very clear how important this step is. The track guides will not wear prematurely and the Weasel should drive as smoothly as can be. The way to check alignment is with a 1 inch wide piece of metal. This gauge needs to slide through all of the bogies. This was no simple task at first. Some of my bogie support arms were bent. I replaced those first. Next there are shims behind the support arm bracket where it bolts to the hull. That will tip the wheels from left to right and change the clearance. At this point two sets gave me some trouble. The fix was to lift the assembly with the home made tool and shift the support arm in the spring yoke. The bolt thread would engage with the yoke in different positions left to right. That worked on one assembly. The other we removed and turned it 180 degrees in the yoke and that did it. During all of this I also checked with a bar on the outside of the bogies. That should be the initial thing to check. It made sense to me if the outside is straight it should be close on the inside. Also you will know what direction to adjust without guessing. The steel I used happen to be 1” x 7/8” solid bar. It was possible to get the 7/8” bar through and not the 1”. At least then I knew it was getting close.
    2 points
  19. These are pictures of my original:
    2 points
  20. Thanks Dan @M29 and Patrick @Patrick Tipton. Driving the weasel is a bit limited at the moment as I don't have any seats for it. Just the seat backs. Plus I still have some more painting to finish. The seat canvas is on the water from the UK and should be here by the end of this month. I am also working on my 5 tonne truck to carry the weasel around to shows and events. Again I will have it back on the road soon. My weasel looks a bit different from when I first got it.
    2 points
  21. This weekends weasel fun was to apply the final coat of OD to the drivers side and then apply the stencils. For the purists, before jumping up and down saying the stencils are positioned incorrectly, this weasel is a representation of a weasel that rolled off the Letterkenny Ord Depot production line in the 50's. Paint was Semi gloss OD, stencils were white and as far as I can tell from looking at photos of Letterkenny weasels, stencils were applied/positioned at random. Now onto the passenger side.
    2 points
  22. Let’s see some high numbers.
    2 points
  23. Hi Dave, Yes it is reproduced. Let me check if I can get the file, as I did not made it myself. It is made as a decal, same as you use in model building. You can print it on special decal paper using an inkjet printer / apply 3 layers of clear varnish / cut out / soak in luke warm water / apply. regards Frank
    2 points
  24. @Patrick Tipton Thanks Patrick, I am working towards having the weasel ready for November where I will be taking it to an event with a large gathering of Military Amphibians. There will be an official launching ceremony for the weasel at Clarence Town. Distinguished guests will include, my offsiders dog, a GPA owners 'Wilson' the soccer ball and a young boy whose Grandfather is bringing him along to the event especially to see a weasel😀.
    2 points
  25. Another tick in the box. I have put historic registration on my weasel. Now I can drive it legally on the road. The next step is to apply for an exemption from marine registration.
    2 points
  26. I have started working on the parachute brackets and related hardware. I was incredibly lucky to get them. I am missing one bracket out of 8...not a difficult fab project. I will get good pictures and dimensions for everyone who needs these shortly, but here is a little teaser.
    2 points
  27. I got the engine stand built and the '45 dated engine mounted. Will be testing soon although I still haven't decided whether I am going to put this in the T24 or find a correctly dated '43 Champion 6. I am going out to the shop for a long work day. The goal is to finish the hull other than for paint prep. I will report back later.
    2 points
  28. I contacted them as well, as I would certainly order a set. So hopefully a couple emails will inspire another production run.
    2 points
  29. I need to do a little bracket adjusting and then a little leading to repair a couple of prior repairs, but...the back panel is very close to finished. I am going to run out of things to repair pretty soon.
    2 points
  30. @04mustangAs an alternative to the return roller needle bearing, I have fitted bronze bushings. This mod was done to the Australian Weasels operating in Antarctica. This mod also allows you to fit a wider bushing (on one side only) to more evenly distribute the load. The take out return roller shafts that I have all show extreme wear in way of the needle rollers. The needle rollers don't take too kindly to lack of lubrication and being exposed to water/moisture. Just a thought. I have attached a couple of photos for you to study. Cheers Return roller gasket.pdf
    2 points
  31. Patrick. I boil parts in a barrel of water, dish soap, and sodium hydroxide solution. One gallon costs less than the stripper your using, and will do everything on a weasel that will fit in the barrel. For large parts I build a fire under the barrel. For small parts I use a GI immersion burner to boil the water. Takes about an hour. In the summer, parts left in the solution for a couple of days have the same results. Just hose them off afterwards and they’re spotless. Works on grease and paint. I used to spend thousands on paint stripper.
    2 points
  32. Just wanted to through in some information on which track type was used where according to the three Weasel parts catalogs that I have. Service Parts Catalog for Carrier, Cargo, Light T 24, 1. Aug. 1943 905660 – Track, Drive, Assembly ORD 7-8-9 SNL G-154, G-179, Carrier, Cargo, M28 (T15), M29 (T24) and M29C, 15. June 1944 905660 – Track, Drive, Assembly, 15”, low guides, 56 grousers – used to ord. serial. 2102 908172 - Track, Drive, Assembly, 20”, high guides, 56 grousers, auxiliary cables – used from ord. serial. 2103 ORD 9 SNL G-179, Carrier, Cargo, M29 and M29C, 9. Feb. 1953 905660 – Track, Drive, Assembly, 15”, low guides, 56 grousers – used to ord. serial. 2102 908172 - Track, Drive, Assembly, 20”, high guides, 56 grousers, auxiliary cables – used from ord. serial. 2103 to 14108 except 13584, 13585 and 13660 (superseded by 908657) 908646 - Track, Drive, Assembly, 20”, high guides, 56 grousers, auxiliary cables – used from ord. serial. 14108 to 14158 except 13584, 13585 and 13660 (superseded by 908657) 908657 - Track, Drive, Assembly, 20”, high guides, 55 grousers, auxiliary bands – used from ord. serial. 14159 As you can see the official documentation lists four different tracks, one 15" and three 20" designs. Whether the last design, 908657, was ever install in production or just during post war rebuilds, I don't know.
    2 points
  33. I have a small group of T15 photos I thought I would post. Really nice!
    2 points
  34. O.. i have more just have to down load them. I can start a t-24 and a m29 paint post. Have allot for them Currently have all 3 pattern prints for the 24 and 29
    2 points
  35. Patrick, I saw the latest March Madness installment with the tight fitting radiator. It reminded me how difficult ours was to remove. I created a spreader to push the side walls apart to wiggle the radiator free. It was difficult to say the least. At the time I decided when it’s time to reinstall I will clip an angle iron piece to the flanges of the radiator as a guide and grind some off to get a looser fit. I just pulled out those parts today to dry fit mine as well. I need everything in place to take some measurements. If all goes well I will grind the flanges tomorrow and see if I can install the radiator without help. I will report back if I get that far. Fred
    2 points
  36. I had quite a productive day. Having the guide wheels removed. And also having the idler wheels off. These came off very easy, and I'm happy to not having to do a lot of work on the axle. The carrier / arm needs some TLC as they have weld the grease hole shut....and it has a lot of wear. Edit: Although it now comes to my mind, that this is already a replacement as it is a solid rod. This as the originals are tubed. Inside the tub, only the final drive is remaining...
    2 points
  37. Hello, I'm new to the forum and new to Weasels. I just bought this M29. The data plate behind the drivers seat was painted over so I will need to carefully try to remove the paint.
    2 points
  38. Gents - spent a little more time cleaning up the lower hull...just little details and then put the hull back on the rotisserie. I need to make some rolling outriggers for this hull so I can put it on a trailer easily and move it over to a friend's shop to have him primer it. Topside, I still have a bunch of details, like removing the Norwegian stretcher brackets (accomplished), fixing a few more dents front and back and making new pioneer tool brackets and installing them. My goal is to have everything done by the end of the month and be working on the running gear. I shot a little primer on last's weeks side repairs to get a better side view. I am happy with the repairs and the new floor seam...I think it will be hard to see any of these repairs when the hull is back together.
    2 points
  39. I don't participate much on this wonderful forum just yet, I'm still working on my 1942 G-506 truck. I have to stay focused on one thing at a time. If I don't and have too irons in my fire, it tends to go out. It has been just shy of 1 year since I rebuilt my Type 3 Track. My area of the Pacific North-West has received a decent amount of snow. I had to go out and take a few photos of my Weasel resting in it. I can't believe just how much the snow increases visibility at night. I want to encourage everyone to keep working on their Weasels and posting great content. Thanks again to Patrick for stoking the "Weasel Fire" and getting things happening with them again!!
    2 points
  40. Found them.NO top bow plans.pdf
    2 points
  41. Thanks @Patrick Tipton. I am just waiting for the Engine Video to come through. I have had it on good advice from Svenn Ry over on the Weasel FB group that in my video I have the Wiper arm crank incorrectly orientated. The crank arm needs to face upwards which in turn allows the wiper arm to park to the lower left of the screen glass. I have already corrected the alignment and I will post a photo of the revised set up soon. @F-D ZerniaI have to admit that I had some help with the wiring of my wiper motors. All of the wiring was replaced on the grey motor. The plug came from Cole-hersee and the wiring braid is readily available from Electronic supply stores. I did have to machine a brass collar to solder into the wiper motor cover which in turn allowed me to solder the wire braid into the collar. Hopefully the following photo might be able to better show what I have done. I had to adapt overcome and improvise to get my second wiper motor (Grey in the photo) going. The green motor is NOS but still needed some TLC to get it working as well. A lot of time and effort went into restoring this little used weasel part.
    2 points
  42. Last patch on the hull. I still have a few dents and some old repairs to cleanup but WOOOHOOO! This one was a pain...hard to get the metal inside of the hat channel clean prior to repair. I am going to treat these hat channels with something before I prime this hull. Not sure what...but a rust converter/protector that I can spray in the upper and lower hat channels and the 45 degree side gussets (already sprayed with cold galvanizing compound. There are several holes that look factory so the plan is to feed a tube (maybe with a nozzle) and spray/drip/feed in something. This thing should not spend any time outside, but it will still get some hot/cold cycles so anything I can do to protect it will help.
    2 points
  43. These data plates have been a labour of love! They were a rusty mess, not even readable. I stared by removing the old paint with thinners followed by a GENTLE wire wheel, sprayed them with hamerite paint and In the evenings whilst watching tv I’ve been scratching the paint off the raised letters. I’m very happy with the results 👍
    2 points
  44. Hi guys Well I have to say, my little fuel pump restoration was well worth it. What looked like a terminal mess has actually cleaned up very Nicely. 2 new brushes, new gasket, new fuel mesh, some soldering connections and some time and she runs like sewing machine 👌 IMG_3393.MOV
    2 points
  45. Latest Update T15 engine slowly coming together. I have to get the starter armature back from rewinding and the T84 transmission finished what I am working on now. Some misc lines yet to go. Radiator has been rebuilt which I have to get from the radiator shop. Anyway seeing the light at the end of the tunnel on the engine Dan
    2 points
  46. Thanks Patrick @Patrick Tipton Every job I complete now is real visible progress. Radiator and radiator fan shroud fitted. Upper air deflector fitted.,Capstan winch drive shaft installed.
    2 points
  47. I’m planning to rebuild a couple sets of tracks this winter. I purchased several hundred feet of 4” wide new 1/2” thick 3 ply conveyor belting. I’m not sure where you are located but I have extra material to spare. Some of it will need to be trimmed to narrow it for the outside bands. The gentleman I purchased my weasel from had a machinist make an injection mold for road pads and can get them made up if you need some I can supply the contact info. I plan on adding a double thick conveyor for the wheel contact area and a single outside and inside belt. Hopefully that will suffice? I’m not sure if I’ll use elevator bolts or pronged t nuts or a mixture of both to secure everything yet. I’m currently drilling a long piece of 1/2” thick steel flat stock for my hole template.
    2 points
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