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Patrick Tipton

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Patrick Tipton last won the day on July 29

Patrick Tipton had the most liked content!

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44 Kilroy

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  • Vehicles & Projects
    1943 Willys MB, 1968 M274A2 Military Mule, 1962 M274A1 Mule (Project),1943 Studebaker T24 (Project)
  • Location
    Beemerville, Republic of New Jersey/USA

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  1. Take a small punch and put it inside one of the screw holes and try and tap it loose. You should be able to just catch the edge of the seal (and not damage the threads) if you are careful. Otherwise, you could tack weld a little bead in a couple of places to grab with the pipe wrench or grind a flat as suggested above.
  2. @OZM29C Outstanding! Coming along quite nicely. I am looking forward to seeing it driving again!
  3. @OZM29C Very interesting John. I would not be surprised if this repair was done by the military. The repair was reasonably well carried out - workmanlike but not fussy. They reskinned the sponson from the "bow" to the bulkhead - and likely arc welded it along the seams. The front seam looked almost factory....the others were both less visible and less pretty. Most of the area was cut away by the time I got the Weasel , but the corrosion is really bad in the area. As in the case of your Weasel, the doubled skin seems to have increased the rate of decay.
  4. More progress on the cleanup and starting to think about repairs and the assembly sequence for the new side. The front floor and bow section around the drivers compartment had been reskinned at some point. Lots of extra welds and sheet metal that needed to be removed. Underneath, there are a few doublers that need to be repaired, but overall the metal is in fine condition. I cleaned up two of the 4 vertical hat channels - I will prime the flanges (at spot weld locations) with hi-zinc. I like the rust converting primer better for the areas that will not be welded. This is an untouched section of the inner hat channel. I amazes me that any metal is still shiny and clean after 77 years. I have seen discussion over the years that the entire hull was dipped in linseed oil prior to paint. Perhaps this process explains it. I am going to wire wheel the cavity and prime it before putting the side back on.
  5. These pictures really give a good view of basic hull structure of a Weasel. For those of you contemplating a similar project, it really is not so bad. Note that the sides of the upper hull are just lapped over the lower hull. This means that within reason, the shape of that overlap (ie the side below the floor) is not particularly important - which means that fitting the side will be easy as long as the floor/sponson width is bent correctly. I "overcut" and cut a little of the lower hull sheet metal when I cut through the weld seam - no problem because it is double thick with the inner hat channel and I will add metal back when I weld the lap joint. Overall, the hat channels are in nice shape. The pressings that make up the front and rear of the center tunnel of the hull are pretty pitted, but are still fine for the use that this hull will get moving forward. I will treat the metal. I am still thinking about using a good seam sealer in here just to help minimize the opportunity for moisture in these areas.
  6. Gents: I am looking for T-24 undercarriage parts, particularly the early bogie yokes. I am also looking for a BC1136AW and related parts. TY!
  7. If I am looking at this correctly Steve, there is a seal/cover. Look carefully at a screw hole and you can see that there is a flat piece of metal that is a part of the seal. You need to take that off and then you will find bearings, nuts and lock washers. You should be able to gently tap it or take a putty knife and gently separate.... ...and welcome aboard! Awesome that you have all those original markings!
  8. I think the pictures tell the story. I will have the side & floor removed in another hour or so of work and then will be working on details.
  9. Ha! Yes - lots of work, but not bad if you do it in 2-3 hour chunks. I am replacing the side with 1 piece of new steel - it should be pretty indistinguishable from original when done. The only difference between what I am doing and the original construction is the very top edge where it meets the coaming/top of the hull....at this point (still thinking about it), I am leaving that and will weld/grind the top corner of the hull.
  10. More cutting and grinding. For those following along at home, I was nervous about replacing the whole side. It just seems like such a big job and I was worried about alignment and making the new side and on and on. The deeper I get, the easier this now looks and while I can't do the victory dance (yet🤔) and still may goof it all up, here is what I have learned. 1. Unless a Weasel is coming from a super friendly climate, the lower corners of the hull and the metal under the hat channels/gussets is going to be thin. This left side looked pretty nice and yet the metal has a lot of rot. I didn't poke around this area that much before I started cutting, but much of this damage was not visible from the side or bottom. You could see a few pin holes, but the metal felt solid and I was certainly tempted to just try and weld up the pin holes and then spray something into the area to try and stop the rot. Replacing the side is a lot of work, but I am super happy to have all of this rust gone. . 2. The effort difference between replacing the entire side and just the sponson floor (as I did on the right side of the hull) is marginal. I am guessing the entire left side is going to take less time than the right side because I will spend almost no time working on dents and smoothing seams. I will have one very visible seam along the top edge of the hull, but I think this is going to be pretty easy to hide. 3. 10 foot x 4 foot sheets of 18 gauge will make a complete Weasel side (exactly like original) and are available for about $100. 4. You need to find a large brake to bend the sides. I have drawn several versions of the side and will likely make a pattern for the lower section of the hull. With respect to the rest of the side, I will be able to trim in place and adjust. 5. Drilling spot welds is a thing. My work order: - Music - clean/polish the area so that all of the spot welds are clearly visible (or if you can see them in glancing light, mark them with a pen), - drill pilot dimples - for the hundreds of spot welds that you have to remove, the cheap spot weld cutters will work just as well as expensive ones (with the dimple drilled) - lubricate the bit - look for the puff of "rust smoke" to let you know that you have successfully drilled through the outer sheet metal. On the last two pictures, I thought this lower seam was a carefully made butt joint between the lower hull and the sides. On further exploration, I am beginning to think that it is a lap joint. There is a hat channel on sides of the lower hull that is a combined 45 degree gusset to support the lower edge of the hull, then a hat channel with a large upper flange that supports the joint between the sides and the lower hull - where all of the spot welds are in the second to last picture. The significance of this being a lap joint is that as long as the floor goes more or less in the right place, I don't have to worry about a super fitting butt joint - just need a nice straight edge to run a weld bead. I should have all of the old metal removed next week and then am heading to a buddy's shop to bend up the side. Woo hoo!
  11. Awesome. That yellow one looks familiar...think I spoke with a guy about it a few years back. The hull work really is less scary than it looks. Yes - lots of work, but.....not hard at all. Looking forward to seeing your build. Patrick
  12. I finished removing nearly all of the left side of the hull over the last several days. I have cleanup to do around the vertical hat channels, removal of the floor in the rear section and then the joint between the sides/upper hull and the lower hull. Onward! Picking up a piece of 10 foot 18 gauge steel on Friday.....so I have plenty to do before the new side will be ready to install. I am fortunate that a friend has a 12 ft brake and we are going to bend up the new side at his shop. I will video it and post soon.
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