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Patrick Tipton

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Posts posted by Patrick Tipton

  1. @Conner BushAs John @OZM29C points outs...it gets expensive quick if you have to find all the little parts.  I know of an unrestored M29C in Michigan..not close, but not terribly far.  The guy is trying to sell a semi-restored one without tanks plus the unrestored one for $13k.  I haven't seen them, but I do have pictures.  PM me if you are interested and I will send you pictures and can put you in touch.




  2. I worked a little more on this engine.  Super happy with how it is coming out.  After about 20 minutes of running, the compression ranges from a low of 95 to 104 lbs...from the TM we are looking for 105 lbs so those are good numbers in my book.  This engine was in a flood and sat for 20 plus years - first in Arizona and then upstate NY.  The bottom end was very clean but I replaced the rod bearings because while still in spec, they only had about one thou left in them.  The mains were nearly new and looked great.  I did a valve job on it, replaced one exhaust valve and just cleaned up the cylinder walls with 3M pads.  Pretty inexpensive overhaul!

    The valve covers are leaking so I need to do a little work on them and the carburetor needs a proper rebuild, but this engine will be ready for final cleanup, paint and install soon.

    I also worked a fair bit on the back panel.  I welded up the last few pinholes and used a little "non-lead" lead on it where the inner gussets block access to repair old accident damage completely.  A little more rust removal and I think it is pretty much ready for paint...... finally.


    • Like 1
  3. Appreciate it John @OZM29C!  The Studebaker crankshafts were forged so it is pretty interesting that they were cracked - something extreme must have happened! 

    The crank in this motor was in excellent condition - there was still a little over a thou on the rod bearings but I replaced them as I was in there.  The mains were within new spec and all journals showed almost no wear...

    I have two other cranks...the one with the bad babbitts and one that came from a junk Champion 6 but the crank still looks decent.  Surprisingly the bad babbitt crank journals don't look terrible...I will have them magnafluxed and ground.....

    I did clean out the spark plug holes...have noted the NGK plug number and will give them a shot.

    Thanks again for sharing your experience John!

  4. Got the last major welding done on the hull and am just cleaning up plug welds and details.  I had to make a cut along the lower edge of the bulkhead behind the driver because I got the new side about 1/16 too high in the middle.  I need to do a little more welding on the corner but it is getting close.   I have a couple of buddies coming over Tuesday and we are going to inspect the hull and mark everything that is left...I am about a month behind, but I think I am still in pretty good shape to have this ready by August for the MVPA convention.



    • Like 1
  5. I got the engine stand built and the '45 dated engine mounted.  Will be testing soon although I still haven't decided whether I am going to put this in the T24 or find a correctly dated '43 Champion 6.  I am going out to the shop for a long work day.  The goal is to finish the hull other than for paint prep.  I will report back later.



    • Like 2
  6. It is interesting how other people respond, but for me more interesting to see my own responses to these situations. 

    I am technically a lawyer and still maintain a license, although I have not practiced law in over 20 years.  I have a classmate who loves to call me and ask corporate law questions - my former area of expertise.  He is charging clients several hundred dollars an hour and relying on my expertise to keep him out of the ditches.  It used to really irritate me but he is not holding a gun to my head.  I can share what I feel like sharing...at this point that generally means nothing.  He isn't a bad person for asking, even if I would never behave that way.  My choice what I share.

    So, if you want to be in the bogie resto business, price it and see what happens!

    If you don't, then share or don't, but I would expect that you are going to get people asking lots of questions if you do share because that is the nature of sharing on these sites and no one expects to have to pay for the information.

    Regards, Patrick


  7. On 4/25/2021 at 9:01 PM, D.R.H. said:


    You don't owe me an apology Dave - your behavior stands on its own for better or for worse.


  8. I need to do a little bracket adjusting and then a little leading to repair a couple of prior repairs, but...the back panel is very close to finished.  I am going to run out of things to repair pretty soon.



    • Like 2
  9. Many thanks John.  As you know all too well - labor of love. 

    It is truly strange that they were cut off like this....a restorer would presumably have cut the tabs too....who knows! 😀

    I got the axe brackets almost finished last night...couple more welds and the footman's and it will be finished.

  10. I finally finished flattening the rear panel although I still have a little "leading" to do.  Lots of hours but I think it came out pretty well.  The good news is that with a shovel and axe mounted, no one will be able to see it anyway!

    The tabs for the mounting brackets were all left in place so I have been fabricating new brackets, cutting off my handmade mounting tabs and TIGing the new brackets in place. Very fiddly work.


  11. FWIW - the early ORD 789 G154/179 does have the Timken Numbers....they are only cross referenced to the Group so the chart itself is not useful without the rest of the book - you have to go to the Group Number and locate the Timken Number there (usually in a parenthesis...)


    Here is the download: 


    and we sell a nice reprint if you want the printed and bound version:  https://www.portrayalpress.com/product-p/ord-789-g154.htm

    • Thanks 1
  12. 2 minutes ago, 04mustang said:

    Thank you Patrick. I found those numbers for the bogie parts but nothing in the manual has a Timken or any civilain bearing numbers for the return rollers, idler, or drive parts. 

    So the search continues....

    I will look in a little while....I have seen them somewhere....


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