Patrick Tipton
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Posts posted by Patrick Tipton
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I like Jesse's air pressure idea to check the plug.
No magic on changing the gear. Studebaker Intl does sell them....can't find the catalog but that '39-'54 is right. Letterkenny used the original Weasel motors, so no worries there.
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Looking forward to hearing your success.
FWIW, last rebuild on an M29 engine...and I could not get the damn thing to run. After about 2 days of frustration and backfiring, finally realized I had the firing order backwards....big bonehead move. Twenty seconds later, purring like a kitten. -
2 hours ago, Jesse Browning said:
Ive never had to prime an oil pump on any engine Ive rebuilt. They should suck up the oil. Its hard to tell anything by that picture.
I always use liberal amounts of assembly grease....but don't pack the oil pump with grease or do anything else special to prime it.....
Not science but I've never had an engine run for more than maybe 15 seconds on the first start before I had oil pressure.
Pull that front timing cover and make sure the oil galleys are properly plugged. -
9 hours ago, Bravo28 said:
Chance it is backward?
Unfortunately, pin hole goes in...not the problem.
I agree at this point, pull the timing chain cover and see the plug was left out. -
Did you replace the oil pressure relief valve?
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Looks great guys! FWIW, I would get the side fit to my satisfaction and marked with some type of alignment "pins", then add the hat channels and then weld the side in - much easier!
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On 1/25/2024 at 11:16 PM, DonM said:
Thanks again guys for all your support and advice!
Sounds like great progress Don! Happy to see this machine getting all this love!
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The track tightness doesn't seem to impact steering much on the M29 series. It does create other issues though.
Because the T15 "pulls" the track rather than pushes (as in the M29 series), I don't think you are going to have much of an issue. With the M29, loose tracks "jump" sprockets because of the approach angle and the amount of contact area. Almost all tracked vehicles "pull" the tracks....the M29 is an anomaly.
Do you have any adjustment on the tensioner? If I could, I would just snug the looser side up a little and run it!
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@OZM29C is just being lazy! I mean, who doesn't mind draining a gallon or so of nasty gear oil into the bottom of their Weasel and then using kitty litter, degreaser and about 10 rolls of paper towels to clean up the mess? 😂
Seriously, these mods certainly make maintaining the final drive a lot easier.
I have had reasonable luck using a small handheld pump to remove the oil. Works pretty well - probably doesn't get every last bit of oil out, but it is an option if you suffer from originalititis mentalis like I do and have trouble sleeping after doing a modification to one of these machines.Regards, Patrick
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1 hour ago, Art Costin said:
I need a supplier for rubber for my M29C. With 15 inch tracks
anyone have a name/number of a rubber company ? Art
Are you trying to band with conveyor belt or replace the original bands Art?
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13 hours ago, DonM said:
he exact dimensions or add an extra 1/8" or so on each edge for margin to trim off later to allow for variation in the cut lines? I think the cuts are pretty good so may be not. How big a gap can we reasonably deal with using a MIG unit?
With MIG, you want a strong 1/16th gap...much more and it becomes a lot of work. Less, and you will have more distortion.
Definitely give yourself extra metal...and take plenty of time to fit things up well. The better the fit, the easier the finish.
Good to see you guys making progress!
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Ahead of me! This one is a little tougher...not so many T15 tracks floating around. I will keep my ears open Larry.
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Reach out to Mike Howard...bet he has some.....
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We received about 14 inches of snow over the weekend. Time to play with the M29! Weasels are a lot of fun to play with in the snow and much more responsive.
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Mark - I replaced one entire side....welded on the top corner of the hull. The other side received a new floor....and because the T24 had no flares, I had no choice but to hide a 10 foot seam. I consider it good practice😂
Looking forward to seeing your progress!-
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Nice.
Are you going to weld the top edge along that top 90 degree corner or do you have another plan?
I worried about that a lot when I replaced my T24 side....then I was super careful cutting and then derusting the inside of the top edge where I was going to weld. Loads of careful prep. It ended up being much easier to weld than I expected. I believe I MIG tack welded it basically every inch and then went back over the entire side with the TIG doing about an inch at a time, then jumping forward....etc. I left very little to no gap and used plenty of filler and ran the TIG a little hotter than normal to ensure that I was creating plenty of weld to grind "square" and make that edge look factory and straight. Once finished, I think you would be hard pressed to see that the side was welded.
Enjoy! -
10 hours ago, DonM said:
Regarding the rod bearings, they are babbit type. Some have some "pits" in the bearing surface. Are these fatal to the bearing? If new rods are needed, my question is if I order new rods with the 2 piece bearing inserts from the Studebaker parts place, will they be compatible with my original cast iron pistons?
Post some pictures. The pits in the babbit bearing surface are likely OEM. You can plastigauge the rod bearings and see if they are still in tolerance. Otherwise, the new shell style connecting rods/bearings will work fine with your pistons.
My T24 engine had babbit connecting rods and one of them spun - the reason we needed to rebuild the engine. I am about to film the rebuilding of the engine too.....will be on ShopTime™.
Cheers.
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Larry....I believe the original radio was a BC-1136AW (image below)....which really is unobtanium! Installed in the T15 and the T24.
I am no radio expert, but I thought they moved to the SCR-610 like the jeep? I have a M29/29C radio install manual - will check what radios it covers.Cheers!
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Here is another version in standard measurements. This drawing was made a little early in my restoration process and we didn't update the CAD other than on a physical sheet (which probably was eaten in my shop). I see several errors, mainly in the gas tank area. Alexander's drawing is missing the hat channel that sits right on on the "bow curve" under the gas tank. You can see it in mine. Mine is missing the "gas tank strap bulkhead" that goes at the rear edge of the gas tank (and to which the gas tank straps are mounted (see Alexander's drawing) - the hat channel sitting in the middle of my drawing is fiction.
Between Alexander's drawing and mine...you should get really close.Also, my drawing is a T24/early M29....main difference being the extra hat channels added to the M29C in the passenger compartment closest to the bulkhead.
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Great work Mark. I have seen that movie! Onward and careful with that grinder!
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On 12/26/2023 at 2:07 PM, DonM said:
I hope you all are enjoying a peaceful Christmas season. I thought I would share a gift from my daughter. She rides an ambulance as a paramedic but enjoys writing. She wrote me this poem about my M38 which I think captures the essence of what we are doing.......
Love this!
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Cheers All!
A little belated Merry Christmas! Happy New Year and here's to a 2024 full of lots of progress on your project(s)!
Patrick
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Looks good Mark. That is exactly how I ended up replacing the entire side of my T24. It just got to be faster to replace than repair.
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WTB: M29 Weasel cranking motor
in Buy, Sell, Trade
Posted
I don't want to get you excited yet, but I may have an extra. I will get to it later this month...needs to be tested to see if it even works.