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Patrick Tipton

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Everything posted by Patrick Tipton

  1. Great information John! In the US, Tractor Supply sells 90wt GL1 as "Ford Tractor Transmission Fluid". Works great and is about $40 for 2 gallons. In addition to the possibility of the front bearing holder leaking, many don't squeeze the front bearing/snap ring tightly enough to secure the front bearing - I have seen jeep T84's where the front bearing spins in the case. If you have a lathe, you can take about 10 thou off the face of that bearing retainer. This causes it to squeeze tighter on the bearing snap ring. It makes the input shaft noticeably more stable. All syncronizers are not created equally. Check the syncro sleeve as I have seen several that were not hardened and they fail very quickly. If a file will cut it, the sleeve is too soft. Also, the syncro dogs have been manufactured in many different lengths from about .750 up to about .820. First, they all need to be the same size. In my experience, the best shifting transmission have dogs that are in the .760 range. Much shorter and the transmission will grind downshifting from 3rd (not such a problem in the Weasel but...) and much longer the dog can pop out of the syncro and jam the entire operation. Weasel transmissions are easy to remove compared to the jeep, but still not something you want to have to do many times. There should be next to no axial play in the syncro, 2nd gear stack - so forward- back on the shaft. I am looking for less than .003. Peter Debella has special shims (fluted) - in a pack with a .010, .001 and .002. The combination of new syncro hubs and 2nd gear will often leave in excess of .010 play - enough to cause the transmission to jump out of 2nd gear upon sudden deceleration or going down a hill. The shims go next to the syncro by the snap ring. 2nd gear should be rebushed and the reamed to a snug fit - again...we are looking for nearly no radial play. There should be no rocking, but the gear should rotate freely. I am about to make a video on rebuilding the T84 - the jeep will be first, but I will do a Weasel one as well. Cheers.
  2. Thanks John. Facebook is a strange world. As soon as I wrap up this jeep project (very close to painting the tub), I am going to rebuild the T24 engine and install it. From there, I still have so many details to finish, but there will be light at the end of the tunnel for sure. Cheers!
  3. You are a good man John @OZM29C. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and supporting this community!
  4. Good stuff Brad. Mine is working pretty well, but still not where I want it.....there is definitely some slop in the cross shaft and some grooving in the bands....probably a little of both contributing. Appreciate it!
  5. Congrats Brad! Looks like a decent machine with tons of good parts. The hull is not too bad...we usually get worse here on the East Coast... 1. I have one M29 that had the same transmission - it is almost a drop in swap for the T84. I think that is a later CJ jeep transmission if my memory serves me. 2. Looks like they put a "glass pack" on the exhaust system - NICE! You definitely have the illness 🙂 Cheers!
  6. That looks gorgeous! You do fine work.😍 @aktrapperbrad I would bet they stamped that out in one big piece.
  7. Progress is good! I have been on that same journey...restoring jeeps instead of finishing my T24.. Congrats for the fine work!
  8. Nice John! Mine does not usually skip, but if you load the Weasel up with a bunch of guys (and floaters are already heavier)....it will skip for sure. I hate running the tracks super duper tight, but...they run better. The tracks really are the Achilles Heel of the Weasel....
  9. Congrats @Rob W and team. Lovely work!
  10. If you are going to do it, might as well get it right!😍
  11. I admire your courage John....that would have been real difficult for me to do. The T-24 is "amphibious" but I am pretty sure she will never see water intentionally!😂 Great job @Pips_Blaauw Carry on!!
  12. I do think 10k is overkill since the Weasel is about 2 tons/4k. That being said - more is usually better! I agree that a checklist would be super helpful for transporting them. I am running around a bit - let's see if someone takes a shot - otherwise I will try to put one together. Cheers, Patrick
  13. Greetings and welcome to the forum. Those look very nice. What is your price and where are these shipping from? Thanks, Patrick
  14. Folks: Spoke with Mike Howard recently who is in the middle of a run of the new track bands for the T15. Reach out to Mike if you are a T15 owner in need - they are well tested and working great. It is a wonderful solution for T15 owners and who knows how many he will make (I did not ask) - best jump on this now. He is considering making bands for the M29/M29C but there is considerable cost involved in getting them set up. Time will tell, although we could start pulling "orders" together and probably convince him to do the work, as long as people were willing to place a deposit to help him with considerable time and cost associated with a project of this magnitude.
  15. Wowsa! Loads of room for grease! Always surprises me, but those manuals were prepared quickly so mistakes are inevitable. Seems like they should have gotten the TB right though! You do nice work John. Cheers, Patrick
  16. Thanks for sharing Tim. Good information. I am using Haggerty for my MV's...but have not added Weasels yet. I need to call and get a quote.
  17. Ha! Me not reading so well either! The shaft just slides into splines...if you have a good strong magnet, you should be able to just pull it out.... Fixed the thread title 😀
  18. Brad...when you say driver's side drive shaft, you confuse me. There is only one in the center and it is a splined slip fit on the transmission side and a standard universal on the final drive side. Sounds like you are working with something else?
  19. It surprises me that this small adjustment would make that much difference! As always, your attention to detail is impressive John. Look forward to hearing the results.
  20. That looks pretty good Brad. I agree about the suspension....you expect the Weasel ride to be super smooth, but you feel the bumps and even more so in the back of the machine. The more I do maintenance - greasing the undercarriage, working on the engine, etc....the better she runs. Keep those videos coming. Cheers, Patrick
  21. Thank you @OZM29C John. The track tensioning leaf springs on this machine probably need to be replaced. The tracks don't skip when I am alone, but I have loaded the Weasel up with 3 other adults and I could jump teeth if I cranked on the steering. I still have a little throw so am going to tighten them a bit more this weekend.....but in the meantime - I am just enjoying the machine. I don't really drive this on pavement, but was at a show last weekend and took a lap or two....no hard turns on those expensive tracks! Weasel.mov
  22. Appreciate it Brad. Had a great time at the show. Great machines...
  23. Did a little bodywork on the Weasel and got the camouflage mostly finished. The front end took a pretty good hit at some point - we got a lot of it out and burned off a few lbs of lead and bondo. I initially thought I would have to replace the front panel - I think we can probably straighten it out with a little creative metal bumping. The camo pattern was hand drawn without measuring, so it isn't exact, but it is based off of the factory drawings for this pattern. I will restore this hull at some point, but in the meantime, it runs and drives and is steering better and better.
  24. Got the driver side prepped and primed. It isn't perfect (I took most of the layers of paint off, but not quite down to bare metal), but better and good enough for right now. This Weasel will get completely restored at some point, but not now. I did spend a few minutes removing dents from the cockpit coaming and also welded up the wire edge where someone had cut about 1/2" in a few spots. I stripped the engine cover too. It looks a lot better and will look even better tomorrow when it is all white....and then we will add the camo. I may do some bodywork tomorrow on the bow too....fix the big cut/replace about a square foot of steel. We shall see.
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