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F-D Zernia

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Everything posted by F-D Zernia

  1. I have been mostly in fitting and cleaning parts lately and stumbled across something useful. For a penetrating oil product I have filled two oil cans: one diesel or fuel oil and the other SAE 30 oil. First I use drops of fuel oil on the joint or in the oil cup. Get the part to move just a little. Then a few drops of SAE 30 oil. When the part moves a little repeat the process. So far this has freed the; transmission and steering controls, steering cross shaft, wind screen hinge and brackets, the joint to separate the halves of the wind screen and more. No heat used at all. Usually it works like new in 20 to 30 minutes. I have also used it on nuts and bolts. So far it has given better results than store bought products. Funny thing a friend gave me a copy of an old publication with a similar formula. Practical Help for Farm and Home 1 part engine oil (SAE 20) 10 part water-white kerosene can add 1 part rancid lard applied to machinery parts 24-48 hours before taken apart I have mostly used this on moving, turning parts with success. No heat and less hammering
  2. Patrick, I spent time on the radiator mount panels this morning. The panels are straight with no dents or bows. Like getting the radiator out everything was tight again and I did a little head scratching. First I removed the bottom drain valve and plugged the hole. The bottom of the radiator compartment I filled with folded cardboard so I could rest the radiator between attempts, that helped. With the fan shroud in place the opening at the mounting tabs was too narrow for the width of the radiator so I elongated those holes to get the tabs to spread farther. Then set the radiator in the opening on an angle and try to turn it in place. What needed to be done: pull the radiator to the middle of the opening and slide it straight in with both sides hitting the studs all at one time. Going in evenly everything slipped into place. So when I start on an angle with the fuel filter side closest to the mounting flanges, center the radiator parallel to the mount and slide it in place, it fit. Everything for me was too tight when hanging one side first. The diagonal dimension of the radiator would not slip into the opening past the flanges. The shroud problem was just an added inconvenience. good luck Fred
  3. Patrick, I saw the latest March Madness installment with the tight fitting radiator. It reminded me how difficult ours was to remove. I created a spreader to push the side walls apart to wiggle the radiator free. It was difficult to say the least. At the time I decided when it’s time to reinstall I will clip an angle iron piece to the flanges of the radiator as a guide and grind some off to get a looser fit. I just pulled out those parts today to dry fit mine as well. I need everything in place to take some measurements. If all goes well I will grind the flanges tomorrow and see if I can install the radiator without help. I will report back if I get that far. Fred
  4. I do have something to share for anyone interested in belted tracks. I found this company in Reno, Nevada that makes replacement belting for Snow Cats. I spoke with Rich there and sent him a drawing but they require dimensions on there PDF to quote or make belts and that is a little above my ability right now. There is a pattern in there system for 3.5” Weasel belt already from years ago. There belts are new high tensile (premium) strength material. Machine cut and the cuts sealed. All holes are pre drilled or laser cut. It was some time since we spoke and some details are not clear to my memory. I’ve planned to get back to them when I’m ready but maybe someone can use this information now and knows how to create the pattern on the PDF. This company also can refurbished wheels and sprockets but this is most likely done with urethane. Following is the contact information. He is very informative and they have experience in the belting for tracks. Rich Cummins rich@fallline.com 800-325-5463 www.fallline.com I have not purchased anything from them yet but they seem to have the knowledge and experience we would be interested in.
  5. Hi Patrick, I’ve gotten back to following your March Madness YouTube’s lately and see the new machine in the stable. I do not know if this pertains to driving on the worn tracks. I have a set of tracks with the metal weasel lugs replacing the outer bands. This set has groups of grousers that are ripping and cracked severely in the center. Others have angle iron to reinforce the center rib. I think what happened was someone tried to keep driving after the inner bands failed. Many of these grousers were bound together with barb wire fence strands. It caused severe damage to otherwise seemingly solid parts. I thought of this when you mentioned the track sounded like it was slipping. This could be a precursor to damage. I’m passing on my observation of what I have found. Maybe with all rubber belts they will rip all at one time and cause minimal damage, just leave you stranded. Good luck. Have fun. Fred
  6. Byron, it sure looks like there is some good history near by you. You give us a history lesson too. Thank you for that. On the sub axle pivot tube reinforcement I wonder how deep into the hull you would recommend the extra solid bar. Yesterday I took mine apart to clean and measure and it seems there could be a few schools of thought. I’m thinking of installing bar stock into the hull but where to stop. If it extends into the hull as much as it is in the external stub it should give it plenty of strength. If it bends in the middle I think that would have been a serious accident.
  7. Has anyone tried to run a heater hose from the water pump taping to the tapping in the top back of the head. That is how the heater core is plumbed in a car. I am looking for some answers to this from the local Studebaker club members. They drive there cars mostly in the summer around here. Years ago these Champion engines were used in the midget race cars. It was popular and fast from the stories I heard 40 years ago. I saved some car pictures and a race car picture. In the race car the cooling system is heavily modified. I’m thinking there is something to moving more coolant through the head.
  8. Hi Byron, the videos looked like your enjoying the ride. She sure sounds different with those tracks. It reminds me of studded snow tire hum on the pavement. I’m including a picture of the stay rods on our machine before disassembly. It was a mod to about the last 1000 weasels. Maybe a weakness was noticed on the final drive. Thats why I posted about the cracks or casting marks on the webbing of my final drive case. It certainly would beef up the back like you strengthen the front snubs for the idler. Especially if you tighten the tracks more that usual. Fred
  9. Hi Byron, I like the steel bar in the front stub axle to keep it straight. Is this area a known weak point. I never gave it any thought. It makes sense that if I drive into something or up a steep embankment undue pressure can be placed on that point. Your cowling turned looks like it should. Great job. Fred
  10. John, the lettering is a nice touch. I like the idea of keeping the history. The Letterkenny tag is real special. I assume that is the name of the inspector that accepted the rebuild, like the name on the lower corner of the original data plates. WELL DONE If you could do us a favor. I’m very interested in how your cooling system handles the extreme heat and how it is set up. We have summer weather that gets nearly as warm as you. That information will be important to me one day. Fred
  11. John, Thanks for the update. It’s a good lesson. These small parts may have been bent or exposed to the elements for many years and compromised. I have found many cracked lock washers, just due to age or poor quality I imagine. Also I have noticed a bronze thrust washer in the capstan that broke but obviously not over used. You are right that it could be problematic on the water. I’ve been thinking when the day comes for us to check the hull I will take off all the covers and park the Weasel in the lake a few hours to check for water leaks. My work friends tease me that I should invest in a case of Flex Seal. Fred
  12. Thank you for sharing the wiper in operation. I have never seen that, for me that will be a big day when I can do the same. I was wondering what you did for the cord/ whip on the motor for the electric supply. The metal braided cover looks newer. The whips I have do not look very good and I do not trust the insulation on the old wires through out the machine. I would hate to go through all this work and have an electrical fire. 40 years ago I had an old VW burn up because of bad wire in the rocker panel. It would be a shame to repeat that incident. Fred
  13. Great find John. Thank you for sharing the wiring issue and where to find an answer. I need to mark this one in the book. It is a good example that at times it’s necessary to look deeper for an answer. Years ago we have found inaccurate information in the motor manuals as well. Not only is it important to follow instructions but also to use the troubleshooting guide to locate an issue. Your looking good. It will be fun to hear it run. Fred
  14. It’s looking like in the manuals now. Thanks for so much of the how to ideas. Fred
  15. Thank you for a great way to restore the data plates. Yours look real good. That has always been on my mind. I hoped someone would share something on the subject. Also the fuel pump work is encouraging. I have not looked at one yet. I just put the tank on a shelf and will look at it later. Fred
  16. Byron, Looking good. Funny how I’m beginning to recognize different parts. I’ve only been at this about a year now. My bogies rolled nice for me I didn’t take them out to inspect. Everything filled with grease. For now I didn’t want to deal with the seals. After looking at return roller seal damage from my spare parts I’m having second thought. I think we will take a set apart and see what they look like. Thanks Fred
  17. IMG_6060.MOV I am getting the final drive ready to install in the hull. Today I made gaskets from paper bulk material. I’d like to share how we were taught back in our school days shop class. This is fast and accurate. I apologize the pictures didn’t load in the order I wanted. The large piece of tin is the cover we made for sand blasting. This made a good pattern for the outside of the gasket. It’s not necessary though since the outside can be cut in the same fashion. Hopefully this can be helpful to someone. It took about 2 hours to make this gasket as well as the two flanges for the axle tubes. No measuring is needed and the holes all line up. Before installing I will brush some edges with fine sand paper for good measure. Fred IMG_6061.MOV
  18. In response to the ground strap location on the hull. There is a hole on the motor mount strut. Right or left side have holes. On mine the strap fastens on the drivers side motor mount. Also the battery ground went to the right rear bolt on the transmission cover. Fred
  19. Happy New Year Byron, We live across the road from a lake and in winter it freezes over for a few Months and I will have access to freely drive as much as we like. That should be great fun. Ice fishing is popular here too. In the spring and fall we also have access to some private property with fire lane roads to drive on. Just to explore. My son calls this one the beater with a heater. After we figure out the mechanicals it will be time to do hull repairs on the second Weasel. We’re sticking to the 10 year plan to eventually have 2 real nice machines. Thank you for the questions. I enjoy the forum. It is a wealth of knowledge. The sharing of information is so helpful and encouraging. cheers Fred
  20. Another recent project was to fabricate a new shift lever support bracket. The original brake and shift assembly was too nice for how we will use this machine. I had a spare that was in rough shape and spent time on it. The brake levers were split from water freezing in the tubes and I split steel gas pipe and used them as sleeves to weld over the weak spots. Copper pipe fittings for 2 missing bushings in the housing. I noticed most of the steel shafts for the pedals, shifters and some brake shafts had some degree of wear. Some I welded the groves and filed to fit the hole in the bracket. This shift assembly had no bracket so I made one that will be field serviceable and added grease fittings as well. The hat channel is not very strong at that point so I will bolt this to the floor. The picture shows how I cut a door in the top of the had channel because the nut spun. This Weasel was modified with steel plate under the floor I think to protect from a worn track rubbing the skin. This steel plate seems to be very solid and should support my bracket and then some. We have not given up on a restoration but that will be the next hull. For now I’m trying to figure out how these work and have some fun driving as soon as possible.
  21. I did stop drill the crack on the final drive housing by the axle tube companion flange. I will try this and keep an eye on it after we begin to drive the machine. It will get a work out as I intend to drive this for recreation and put as many miles on as we can.
  22. Thanks for letting us follow the progress. I was curious how well the LAR tracks would do. We are years behind your progress so this is good information for me to plan. Your posts are a good how to. Thanks. Merry Christmas Fred
  23. Stop drill I like that idea. Thanks. I will do that and watch how well it works. Merry Christmas Fred
  24. I’m looking for a little insight on the final drive housing. I had the unit sand blasted and primed. I was made aware of a crack in the web behind the right flange. There is a line around the entire tube from what seems like part of the pattern to make the sand mold. My question is was there a problem or weakness at this point. My M29C is a later model with a brace part 7016578 to support the outer axle tube. It looks to me like a crack that always existed from the day it was cast. I am soaking the inside with diesel fuel now to see if it seeps through. So far all is dry. There are similar marks on nearly every rib on the housing without a crack. I’m not opposed to welding the rib but this process requires very much preheat and post heat to be successful. And could create a serious crack somewhere else if we get careless. It will most likely cause enough distortion to the machined surfaces to create problems making gaskets and seals proper. I could braze in stead that eliminates the excess heat problems or leave it be. There was a build up of oil around the flanges but I always thought it was the felt seal inside the housing where the axle tube is pressed in. So is this a common knowledge weakness because in 1945 there was a design change and the brace was added. Thank You for any and all input. Fred
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