D.R.H.

Hi Oz, Thanks for Your sound advice. I don't have any plans on discarding the engine at all, nor will I be leaving it out in the weather to deteriorate any further. I have a good friend in California a few hours away from where I used to live who saved a hoard of Weasels and parts about 35 years ago. All are gone but He still has 2 good take out engines that are missing some external components. They engines are in a Con-Ex box at his brothers house and haven't seen the light of day since the big save. They should be in my possession by the of August this year. Also, after doing a bit research, the civvy 170 engine isn't much different than the war dept. 170. I have a good take out that I bought a 2 Octobers ago. Take a look at this video;

Roger that 3284. Wilco.

Thank You Patrick. However I have some bad news. The engine inhaled something metallic scarring the heck out of the top of #5 piston. The plug was left out and some rodent made a nest right on top of #5. Even though there was an Arctic Cab, the cylinder still suffered and the piston rusted in place. I managed to get the engine free two days ago, but it binds up pretty badly every 180 degrees, The deck of the block between the intake/exhaust valves and the cylinder is badly pitted which means the deck will have to be fly-cut about .004" to .008". With the pistons coming up to be level with the deck means after fly-cutting, the tops of the pistons will have to turned down the same distance. Then the block will have to be line-bored, new bearings and all. After it was rebuilt in 1962, no one really did it any favors. So, the engine will be put away and used for spare parts I guess. We'll see. At the very least I now know how to read the date code.

Patrick. I didn't snap a photo of the port side of the engine, but here are all of the numbers I found. 94322 3 A near the front of the engine. And X 4 17 toward the rear.

Thanks for chiming in guys. Pewter is the color then Oz, thanks. Unfortunately Patrick, my Weasel had hundreds of 1/8" dia. by 12" long pieces of wire strewn about in the passenger area and down in the bilge. I suspect it was used by some outfit or ranch near Fresno Ca. for maintaining a fence or maybe even power line maint. crew. I did find out from an engine machinist yesterday that .060" oversize pistons are the last size before having to sleeve the cylinders. I found .040" and .060" on line, but no .050". The engine will be put on the back burner to simmer, and I need to get the starboard side track off so I can begin gutting the cancerous metal out and patching in new. I have a hat channel kit from Rob W. that will be used. Stand fast men, more to come.

Right You are Oz. I remember seeing these two photos a little while back. I'm not entirely sure what I'm going to do right now, I do have a good take out engine that still makes on average 100 lbs. p.s.i. compression across all 6 cyls. It needs to be cleaned and painted though. What color is that that You used on Your engine?

I am pooped out boys. I pulled the stuck engine out of my M-29C yesterday and boy, WHAT A TASK. I found the serial number on the boss just behind the water pump adapter. It is T24 8619. What can the engine guru's tell me about this. Thanks. Dave. Also, it was rebuilt in Norway in 1962 with the cylinders being .040" over stock bore. Is it possible to clean up the cylinder to .050" with out running into overheating problems?

Howdy Boys. I have begun the tear-down of my M29-C Weasel. I removed the control levers and then did some more vacuuming in the bilge. My Weasel came with an Arctic Top that had all of the windows smashed out with rocks. I know that there is still some under the engine but I cleaned most of it out when I got the Weasel 2 1/2 years ago. While I was vacuuming, I saw what I thought was a piece of glass at first, then a knife. I picked it up with the hose and it turned out to be a piece of metal that looks like a tool of some sort. It is 1/8" thick and definitely machined out of steel, I used the razor knife as a size reference. Could it be part of the track tensioning gauge? please let me know. Thanks, Dave.

Thanks Patrick for the help. Specificity is important I reckon.

I am looking for an M-29C vent. lid assy. with the hand lever and throw rod. It doesn't have to be perfect, just in good serviceable condition. Thanks very much.

I have to give you props OZ for generating this post! I haven't started any work on my Weasel yet, but I gather this modification is to eliminate the pesky throttle cable system to something less troublesome. Yes? Thanks for the PDF of the W.O. too by the way.

Great fix Rob. Better than the conveyor belt I have used. I would purchase a complete set for the M-29C 55 grouser track with the 4 wide bands when they become available.

I saw this machine being delivered to Rob. It started right up and purred like a kitten. I'm glad that He finally got one of His own, every time He leaves my house I have to go out and wipe the drool off my Weasel and it is in horrible shape... Wheeew!! Just kidding Rob.

OH MY GOD, WHAT A TEASE YOU ARE SIR BERTIMUS !!! I was there, I saw this beast and I like it!!! Congratulations Rob!!

I have a good fix that I can help you with, if you would like. Send a private message with your phone number, and we'll talk. Dave.

Thanks OZM29C. I don't have any plans for them. This Weasel will rarely be driven on asphalt.

I have always found the multitude of track threads interesting. It seems that there are tons and tons of photos of deteriorated track and even more questions about how to "skin the proverbial cat". I say, get out a pencil, a piece of paper, a tape measure, some drill motors and lubricant. Put your brain in gear, add a generous proportion of elbow grease and figure it out. Yeah everyone wants the original rubber bands, but no one wants to pony up the dough to respect another man's hard work when they're done. Sorry to those I offend with my blatant honesty, but laying around like a herd of cows chewing their cuds waiting for the other guys to come up with the next best thing to chocolate milk is just wasting good honest educational and experience building time. Just take a look at what the founder of this site has done with 1 Weasel and a video camera, and that has taken a bit more than 20 months. What I did here took less than one week, a little over 3 hours a day and some good old fashioned American Ingenuity. Get out there and build something on your Weasel and get it back into modern day history again.

Nice work Raffi. The rear differential housing was not only a big cast gear container, it gave structural integrity to the hull and supported the rear axle housings as well. I think that I would want to build some sort of structure that would tie the hull sides together to help prevent the track tension from bending the sides. Just sayin'.

Thank you to both M29C3284 and Guido Ferluga for responding. No 3284, I did not remove the W.P. adapter. I didn't know that one was there, I'll look today. I purchased the truck engine because #5 cyl. in my weasel engine is stuck. So if all internal parts, clutch and flywheel assembly, head and maybe some others will interchange, I'll just strip the truck engine down, save the parts and rebuild the engine in my Weasel. Thanks Guido for the insight on modifying holes. This helped in my decision to rebuild what is in my Weasel. I appreciate you guys.

Thank You very much Porter for the water pumps. They arrived earlier this week, but I've been busy at work and opened the box just today. Beautiful condition they are. Much appreciated!! Dave. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMB9QEmKh4s

Hello everyone. I hope all are well and having fun with their Weasels. I am reaching out for some engine specs. and differences. Oct. 2020 I purchased a 170 Stude engine, I was told that it came out of a '50's era truck. It was pretty much complete from the fan to the throw out bearing. I didn't do much more than pull the head and de-carbonize the top end, oil everything, button it back up and put it under a small tarp. Here's where the fun starts, three days ago I pulled the water pump from my Weasel engine and tried to install it into the truck engine. No surprise, it did not fit. So before I go and spend more than my initial $50.00 on this boat anchor, can anyone please tell me just how many parts of this truck engine will fit into/onto the Weasel engine? Thanks in advance. Dave.

I sent you a private message. Dave.

DELETE THIS ENTIRE THREAD PATRICK...

Thanks Patrick. On a Psychological note. It is funny how SOME folks can step on an other persons toes then get mad at the toe owner for speaking out. Their skewed logic being "Well it's your fault for having your toes there in the first place! If they weren't there, I wouldn't have stepped on them". THESE type of folks never seem to put it together that they're not a part of the solution. I think I'll return to oblivion for a while..... A.M.F.'s.

Amphibious Detecting, I appreciate your ability to look at a topic and be able to laugh. However, the rant WAS NOT directed at you, it was for M29 (Dan). This is now the third time he has put his mind-set on display and I have a pretty good idea where he is coming from. Weasels are quite expensive to restore to any respectable level and I get it, folks want to spend as little as possible on some out dated, 78 year old rusty piece of junk. THIS is exactly why I do my best to think outside of the box and repair/restore what I can, myself. I recently purchased a "Hat Channel" set from a guy here on this forum. He quoted his price, I sent him the check. No balking, no asking for a cheaper price or spare channels. HE PUT IN THE WORK to figure out what needed to be done, then did it. He deserved to be paid what he was asking. I will repeat, "I, on the other hand was just showing a process that I had figured out and wanted to share it on the forum. My intent was NOT to drag interested parties into turning their wallets inside out. I did it for me. Anyway, this horse has been kicked enough. Dave.