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M29

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M29 last won the day on March 31

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  1. Hi Larry The large hole is for the Trippe Speedlight headlight. The hole around it and toward the rear are for the light wires. The two odd looking holes toward the front I am not sure about. I will check tomorrow and let you know Dan
  2. Looking forward to seeing it completed Dan
  3. Call Accurite at 559 292 6933 ask them about them. Dan
  4. Hi Larry The spacing's where they bolt to the pads are 1" off 1/2 " each side. That does not mean it can't be done but will take more effort. Guides would be affected as well. I looked at your belt installation. A couple suggestions I would make is you try to keep your track as straight as possible when bolting on the belt. I used fender washers once on a weasel track to bolt on the belting. The problem I had was they were so thin they would cup when tightening them and then later after use come loose. Not sure from the pictures if those are fender washers. A good gardening pad (looks like you have one) or knee pads will go along way to helping your knees. Figure many hours drilling way slower than plasma piercing. Those plates are super hard and are very hard to drill. The way I did mine was as follows I pierced all the track plates first using a 3/16 plate X 3ft long hole jig. I would place the plasma tip into the hole a hit the switch and the hole would just about be perfect a couple more quick piercings and a 1/4" bolt fit almost perfect. After all holes were in plates I built a wood fixture the length of the track with cross members notched for the center guides. This kept the track straight.. I flipped the track over so the tack pad cleats were up ,you can see this in my previous post. I then cut 3/8" thick Mdf the same width of the belt 3" and inserted it under the pads just as if it were the belting. Keeping it tight against the inner bands rivet mounts. I then used a 1/4" forstner bit to drill the holes in the mdf strips. This was done by drilling down through the plasma holes in the pads The mdf strips were 8 ft long and were inserted the full length of the track just like the belt would be. When these holes were drilled they were an exact copy of the holes in the pads. Now these holes are 1/4" and a belt punch is like 25/64ths so I drilled the holes larger so the belt hole drill would fit snug in the hole . Then I removed the track from the wood mount and rolled out my 3" wide belt. on the wood mount I then placed the wood strips on top of the belt keeping the inner edge of the mdf template and the belt flush ,this will be the side that goes against the inner band rivets. I then used a brad nailer to nail both together so there would be no movement of the two parts Important!! Make sure you don''t wind up with your belt joint in the same place you band is cut. I spaced my joints about 4 pads away from the band cut. You need to leave your belt long beyond the end of your track or you will have both joints match which you don't want. In my previous posts I have pictures of the system I used. Dan
  5. Hi Everyone I thought I would post a picture of one of my completed T15 tracks and one being finished. The additional bands on the outer parts of the track have made the track much more stable than original. Dan
  6. Hi larry Mine are 1/8 on my track guide rollers. Front and rear idlers appear the same. You could probably go to 3/16ths with no problem. Dan
  7. Hi Jim Thanks for stepping in and clearing up some misquotes and erroneous info on my part. Dan
  8. Hi Larry The first thing you should do is get all the manuals you can on repair and parts for the T15 which is aka M28 weasel. Pat Tipton who is the originator of this forum and founder of Portrayal Press has them. Tom who just replied in a previous post in this thread has much more experience regarding the T15 than I have so to have him providing help here is great. By the way Tom could you post some pictures of you T15 restoration? The pictures on your site do not show the detail. I have not removed my radiator yet but it is going to have to be done as my engine plus all running gear will have to be removed to rebuild the body. The wheels that Tom had recast look like the way to go. It would be nice to know where they were done and an idea on cost. The headlight is very rare. It is a Trippe Speed light. Graham Trippe produced headlights for a number of years back in the day so you cab find some parts on ebay. It is 8" in diameter . My lens was broken and I just bought a replacement recently for 65.00 on Ebay. The headlight bucket is the unique part to the T15 which would be hard to come by. As a project weasel to restore the T15 in my view is easier to restore body wise than the M29. It does not have all the hat channels and hidden rust areas that the M29 has to deal with in a full restore. My machine is a rust bucket but all flat panel replacement will make restoring much easier and faster. The issue and challenge is the tracks and bogeys. The springs also can be broken. I recently had a quote to have my springs re-tempered and was quoted about 275.00 per assembly. To remake 4 springs sets was around 1K. The other thing as I ramble on is how much to spend restoring the T15? Only a few were made in comparison to the T24 and M29 so parts are very hard to find if non existent. Larry your machine has tracks and so does mine which is a major deal on the T15. Many don't have tracks or are missing guides and pads. I understand that only 500 T15s were produced and were short lived in field trials mainly because the track and bogey system was not adequate. I am sure it did not take long for The war department to see the problems. I also wonder who came up with the crazy design to angle the bogeys? Maybe if were lucky Jim Gilmore will have something to say about this. As for cost what is the limit? and to others that own T15s what are your thoughts? I think the T15 I see on youtube that is running with every conceivable rare part on it sold for 14K which is a drop in the bucket in what you can spend to bring one of these back to original condition. At the end of the day just speaking for myself I am going to push on with my restoration and try to keep cost down by doing as much work myself as possible. I would like to have new track bands but how much will they cost? and then that only solves part of the track problem. What about the sprockets eating up the guides? With new bands and very expensive bogey remakes it will not take long for the sprocket to eat right through those guides then you back to space 1. Lets face it until a complete solution to the track problem is developed which includes guides and sprockets (which will not be cheap )I think the T15 is at best a limited use or static historical display. Dan
  9. Hi Larry Anytime you go over old rotten rubber with another layer is most likely a failure waiting to happen. Nothing is out of the realm though. If you did the belt as an overlay over your old band you would want to mill the rubber off evenly on the old band down to the top of the cable lugs. A router with a jig fixture would cut the rubber down to an even layer. A very good rubber to rubber cold vulcanizing adhesive is Rema Tip Top SC4000. There is a possibility you could remove bands from a M29C weasel and adapt them to your track I was thinking about that today. I have a couple M29 tracks and will check measurements to see if my thought on this will work. There are M29 tracks to be found with better bands than you have. Another thing you mentioned is drilling out the rivets . To remove the rivets drilling works OK but is slow inmho. I use a air chisel called the big nasty that really works fast and shears them right off. Forget drilling any holes in the pads with standard twist drills. That pad material is hardened even cobalt is slow going. I use a jig with 1/4" holes and do the holes with a plasma cutter. It does surprisingly well and is quick in comparison to drilling. In one of the photos in this thread there is a picture of the jig. If you have a plasma cutter try some practice holes before putting holes in your pads. In one of the pictures I posted I show the holes I did with my plasma cutter. It looks like you have a pretty good T15 body not a rust out one so if you get the track issue resolved you will have a nice weasel. Dan http://www.rematiptop.com/products/remabond-cements/sc4000-cement.html
  10. Hi Larry The T15 on youtube is painted white and is very clean with nice tracks although they have chain on the pads as well like yours but continuous. Your bands are really shot ad well as the guides. The bogeys need a reasonably smooth surface to run on your bands are showing all the cable lugs. new bands would be the way to go. You will obviously need some track guides as well. How is the rest of your T15? Is it complete with all the T15 jewelry like headlight, ski racks etc.I will await further photos. I'm not sure when mike howard will have bands available for purchase. I think the project is currently in the stage of have a mould made. Dan
  11. Hi Larry I re-read your earlier post and you state you want to run the belting the width of the track pad to the guide to the place the Bogeys ride on? That would be hard to do on the T15 because there are raised portions on the pad that would prevent you from doing this. Granted I may be wrong but others that have looked at this as well have also come away with the same conclusion. The best you can do for the track Imho is to replace the center bands with new as Mike Howard is developing or leave on existing bands and belt the 3 inches of pad that is flat on each side of the center bands. Please let me know if you have discovered a way of running the belting over so the bogeys can ride on the belt like you can on the M29. I also noticed you said you had a running T15 (driveable), which is something in itself as I only know of one that is operational and it is on youtube? Are you the owner of that weasel? If not would you mind posting some pictures on this site of your T15? Dan
  12. Larry Use 1/2" belt. 3 ply. It wont cause any drag. Use 4 bolts per pad. I will have mine done in a week or so and will post pictures. The replacement bands will be nice but without a better design on the guides which basically are the wear pads for the sprockets your use of the machine will be short lived once the guides wear through. Many of my guides are worn to 1/16th thickness where the sprocket hits. If you get new bands you will have to break off the rivets which will free the guides.Maybe they are less worn on one side or the other so you could rotate them. Or build up the wear on the guide with weld. Dan
  13. Larry the bands are original but lots of rot and track bands broken in several places on each track. About the best I can hope for for the center bands is that it be a smooth enough surface for the bogeys to roll on. The 3" wide outer band conveyor belt will add the strength to hold the track together. The T15 track even with good main bands is a really poor designed track. The center guides are the wear plates for the sprocket so very thin. In my view to have a usable track for the T15 would mean a complete redesign. I realize in putting the effort into restoring my T15 it is really going to be a very limited use machine mostly a display. So if I can take it to some of the military shows etc that will be the extent of use. Dan
  14. Hi Larry Here is a link to G503 site showing DRH refurbishing bogey wheels. Looks like he was using PMC 780 for the urethane to mold the wheels. I am refurbishing a couple T15 tracks that are in bad shape as well fortunately all the pads were not to bad of shape. I am doing a conveyor belt outer band #" to the each side of both tracks. What I understand about the T15 track it was not very good with only the two center bands the bogeys run on. I feel that adding belt to the outer portions of the track will add much more strength and stability to the track. I will post more pictures as I get further along. It would be nice to see some pictures of your project. Dan https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=311864
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