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M29

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M29 last won the day on September 17

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  1. I did not say re-banding would not work. I just never gave it any serious thought as it does not appear economical to do so and have a good result. If it were me and I wanted french tracks I would get a set that is good enough to use as is. Just take it easy with them and they may be just fine. Maybe Patrick will sell you a set. I have used conveyor belt on several weasels over the years using the original track. Other than the time consuming job of busting out the old rivets it is a reasonably straight forward proposition. I don't know what the cost would be for a set of old original tracks with somewhat decent pads so that is a factor. Anyway the weasel hobby is expensive these days and it is getting more so. Maybe you could look for a donor weasel like some do and make one good one out of two? Don't get discouraged just become informed and make your best decision based on what you learn. Dan
  2. The issue with the french track for what your planning is the grousers are narrow in width and are designed for the thicker heavier french track rubber with embedded roller chain between them. This allows for a smooth surface for the bogie wheels to roll on. I think the french track is a very strong track and is easier to get on and off the weasel. It is less prone to jumping off during turning. The downside to the french track is the weight and they slow the weasel down. I had a set once on a weasel and could never get the weasel to run much over 12mph where with the original track the weasel would go 25+. These are the conclusions I came to from owning a good set of both types and actually using them. As a matter of fact the french track weasel is still in operation today. So basically if you can rebuild the french track like it was originally you would have a good long lasting track. Today much of the rubber from that era is cracked and water has gotten into the roller chain and rusted it out so unless you have several tracks to swap rubber from which it sounds like patrick does you are facing the same problems that all original weasel tracks suffer from. Dan
  3. Why not get the regular style weasel track and reband them with conveyor belt like so many others have done. Using the french track grousers on a new track system I don't know?? Dan
  4. I have an extra Brass recast one I would sell. It will be very hard to find an original. Dan
  5. Its different more like M7 small brass knob etc Dan
  6. Thanks for the kind words Pat and John. John the T15 could float in testing but .......are you thinking about the drain plug mod?? Dan
  7. Latest T15 happenings.... It has been awhile since I last posted....but a new surge of weasel fever has struck so I have started working on the T15 again . I have already repaired most all the drive train but the final drive which I am repairing now. The final drive was really a mess full of rust. All the gears looked good after cleaning except the pinion ring gear. Apparently throughout the years water was able to get into the housing and pool around the lower part of the ring gear. This caused lots of pitting from rust on the ring gear teeth and the steering band drums. The pitting on the drums was really bad. To repair this I put them in my lathe and turned them down about 0.20 which took care of the deep pitting and the remainder of the pits I filled with JB weld. The drums are nice and smooth now and should be OK. I had to remove the final drive spider gears to pull the ring gear to repair the rust damage on the teeth. John Wilson sent me a article written by Gary S from the old weasel site. It is an excellent depiction of the removal teardown process of the weasel final drive. Currently the drive housings are all cleaned of old debris rust and oil. One thing I am doing is zinc plating all the moving parts on the outside of the final drive like the shift levers bushing etc. I will still paint them white but hopefully they wont rust when the paint inevitably chips in those areas from use. With the final drive all apart it made sense to replace the bearings so new bearings are being installed. I am deciding if I will drill a hole for a drain plug for future oil changes without having to open the case. I made a new addition to my shop equipment that I am excited about I bought a spot welder. It is made here in the USA by AIM Manufacturing in Spokane Washington . They carry all the parts for the welder so that is a plus. This welder is very unique however in the fact it gets its welding power from 4 12volt truck batteries. It can spot weld two layers of 12gauge steel so should have plenty of what it takes to handle any spot welding on the weasel body. The machine only needs 120 volt to operate so can plug into any 120 volt outlet. It has numerous tongs both large and small that are with it. It is a very robust and solid machine and as I get it set up I will test it and post the results. I have included a link to a video showing it in operation. Dan https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0joJmq2v0A
  8. John Great idea for the spring repair. D
  9. I am wondering if anyone has riveted new steering band strips on the metal steering bands. Would like to know what type of rivets you used. Dan
  10. I am wondering if anyone knows where I can locate the tapered seals that go around the steering band shafts 900677 on the weasel differential also the tapered seals that go around the 4 steering band bolts that are located on the differential housing. Mine just fell apart. I was thinking maybe a rubber o ring would suffice. Any thoughts?? Dan
  11. Steve Greenberg is making a run of repro compass mount brackets. Cost is 325 plus 15.00 postage. Let Steve know if your interested sgreenb810@aol.com Dan
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