M29

Steve Greenberg is making a run of repro compass mount brackets. Cost is 325 plus 15.00 postage. Let Steve know if your interested sgreenb810@aol.com Dan

Awesome photo John Thanks

Go online look for https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?t=273306 https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?t=183071 http://www.questmasters.us/1943_T24_991_Page_2.html I have already checked. Maybe Steve Greenberg can shed some light on it. I think he is a friend of John Wilson OZM29C Dan

Great idea

It would be nice if a reman compass mount could be made. That is the hard part to find. I would be interested and know several others that have an interest as well. It also could be made on a milling machine from aluminum. Not original but?? Dan

Homasote Board was recommended on the old weasel site as a oem looking material for use in the kick panel area https://www.amazon.com/16-24-Homasote-Board-Pack/dp/B00JMH9K2G/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=homasote+board&qid=1624499076&sr=8-4

Dave you are flushing out some great info! Dan

I had them make me a set for my T15 about 6 months ago. Looks like I was lucky to get them.

Pat I have been using this white epoxy prime coat by interlux for years on boats and now my T15 it is awesome looks just like the winter white paint of the T15. It can be sanded and used as a basecoat or be be clear coated with a satin clear. FYI dan

Vintage wiring of maine https://vintagewiring.com/product/studebaker-m29-amphibious-tracked-vehicle-weasel-plug-wires/ 207.465.3431|info@vintagewiring.com

From now on Alexander I will check with you first. I paid a little less with shipping than debella so not going to rebuy just to have absolute correctness. Dan

Pat Part # on my old original coil (which is kaput) is CM 4010. The resistor in the coil of your picture is internal just like the picture in my previous post it is under the domed cap (removable) on the bottom of the coil. This type of coil is very hard to find and pricey. From all info I could find the part# signifies the year. After many months of looking I ended up finding a nice NOS 12V one on ebay from Germany a 1955 model which looks closely identical being the center high tension post is slightly offset from the old original. Another thing about the NOS one I bought is it uses the separate mounting bracket like the weasel. Many you see have the mounting bracket spot welded to the coil. Dan

Hi Pat Yes all weasels were twelve volt. There are two posts + and - on the bottom of the 12 volt coil shown in my pictures. The purpose of my picture was to show the resistor and how it was mounted on the early weasel 12 volt coil as manufacturer supplied. I thought I would also post a picture of the early style 12 volt starter solenoid at least for the T15. This solenoid had a removable cap that you could depress and engage the starter manually...whoo hoo!! Dan.

I took a couple pictures of the parts manual of the T15 engine and also the early M29 engine which I assumed was the predecessor to the T24 anyway for what it is worth here are some pictures. Also I don't think this was a 6 to 12 volt conversion. The early 6 volt coils only had one post besides the high tension wire. It appears from the parts pictures both the T15 and the M29 which also would mean the T24 were equipped from the factory this way. Look closely at both pictures and you will see they used the same domed coil. Dan

The The early T15 weasel had a replaceable resistor in the bottom of the coil. I thought the early T24 was the same? I thought it was changed to the more modern coil when the M29 was developed? Dan

Be prepared NOS tops are selling for 2500 plus. I think Jim clark tops also in England are more than Canvasco.

They have done a fair amount of work never saw it up close but have not found any bad feedback. They are located in England. They quoted me around 1000.00 USD for a top a few years ago. I have attached an email they sent me with a few pictures of their weasel tops. They don't supply any hardware though you have to supply your own in other words have an old top you can get the hardware from. I am sure this is the case with all top makers if you want original. I bought some repro hardware from Liberty Auto years ago anticipating this problem it was not cheap still have it. Since then I got lucky and found 2 NOS tops made by McKenzie in 1954 paid a tidy amount of money but they are beautiful and crystal clear windows. The stuff is out there just have to be patient and have some luck to. Dan

Thanks for the info Pat appreciate it~!

John and Mary Worthing http://www.canvasco.com/ also Byron just had Jim Clark do some excellent canvas work for his weasel. Dan

Hi Everyone After rebuilding my T84 transmission for my T15 I noticed after a short period of time while the engine and transmission were on the stand a small drip of oil weeping out between the transmission and the clutch bellhousing. I pulled the transmission off and found the shaft where the the lower cluster gear rides leaking oil where it goes through the transmission case. I read online this is a common problem. All types of remedies are advised such as using RTV JB weld etc. It was also mentioned to put a gasket between the transmission and the bellhousing like the Jeeps have. Funny on the weasels (at least on mine) no gasket was between the transmissions and the bell housing. Looking in the parts manual showed no gasket either? I am going to put a bead of RTV around the area where the shaft comes through the housing so when it is installed to the bellhousing it will keep the oil contained. I am only mentioning this so that anyone rebuilding the weasel T84 transmission that this problem could present itself. Some ingenious machinist types have cut "O" ring grooves in the shaft where it goes in the transmission housing to stop the oil from dripping into the hull and making a mess. Glad I found this before the engine was installed. Another thing that may contribute to this problem is I did add a street 90 elbow to the oil fill to increase the amount of oil in the T84. This was recommended and also was a later retrofit to the T84 transmission. I highly recommend this mod as the T84 oil capacity is greatly increased. Anyway hope this tip helps. Have a nice memorial day! Dan

Alexander that spot welder you have is awesome state of the art machine. I appreciate any info you can share regarding spot welding and associated coatings. The cavity wax is interesting. Since starting this post I have been reading on different websites about weld through primers. What I have read is that mig welding and weld through primers are where problems arise and that spot welding works well with weld through primers?? I think the automotive industry where spot welding repairs are done in collision shops have perfected products just for spot welding. Any thoughts? Dan

Hi John and Pat That looks like a slick way of welding the hat channels. As always John you do amazing work. Pat I am including a portion of an article from Data Welder website regarding spot welding through a zinc rich coating called an "e" coating. apparently it is an electrical conductive counting that is weld through see link for full info. I knew nothing about this but found it very interesting as I had thought any type of coating between the metal layers would cause issues but according to the article the coating actually enhances the weld> http://datawelder.com/spotwelders/FAQ/faq.html

Hi Alexander That is a nice unit. How much of the weasel hull can you reach? I am looking at an older Hirane auto spotter 140. I have included a picture. it has a long reach tong that I thought would be good for reaching some of the harder to reach areas of the weasel body. I think it has air cooled tips. I know some are water cooled. Any thoughts are appreciated. Dan

Hi John That looks like a nice compact unit, It looks like you used a combo of spot welds and plug welds. It appears you did the spot welding on the hat channels before you did the sides? In just analyzing the picture it seems maybe doing several plug welds for good measure and spots in between would cut down on the grinding/ cleanup work on the plug welds. How much reach did you get with the tongs? From the picture it looks like 12" or so? Dan

Hi Patrick appreciate your input. I can understand the clean metal requirement for sure. I have to replace a good portion of the hull on one side so some of it would be new steel. I wonder if when welding new steel that mill scale on the new steel would interfere as well? Did you only try the Lenco Pat?? I thought you were investigating a more serious machine? My Lenco works well on 20 gauge but not so much on thicker. FYI I bought the Lenco in the early 80s and used it in my autobody shop for years welding automotive rear 1/4 panels even did some roof reskinning. I never had a problem. It was recommended that a special pair of vise grips be used to pre dimple the panel prior to welding. They were only good for 3/4" or the center of the lip of an automotive panel lip. By the way Pat your videos are awesome. I am always amazed at the parts and weasels you find out on the east coast. Dan