M29

Since I had never worked on the jets before I was not sure how the insert came out. I soaked them and was able to pull them straight out. I saw a small hole in the outer jet body but did not notice the insert had a hole. I did notice the insert has a spiral on it and I thought that fuel entered the body of the jet that way and then went out the small hole in the jet body? I used a welding torch tip cleaner to make sure the hole was not plugged Dan

Hi Byron The T15 engine I am working on has the fuel jets so they must be from Studebaker. Dan

Byron I don't have that code but can probably get it. I'll see what I can do Dan

I got this kit from Mikes https://www.carburetor-parts.com/search.asp?keyword=weasel Dan

This formula is for 2 oz the small jar next to the clutch. I can probably get a printout of the code for a quart or gallon possibly. I think any good paint shop can easily use this formula to make how ever much you need Dan

Wow what a job!

This is an acrylic enamel two part. It is not flat though has some gloss but with a flatting agent you can make it as flat as you want. I only tried a pint of it but was impressed so I thought I would share. dan

Hello Everyone Here is the paint code for a olive drab color that looks really nice. Not sure if it will meet everyone's approval but the local MVC here uses it. Hope you like it. Dan

Sorry Alexander for the error in the above post

Beautiful engine Andrew. Yes the bell housing is different. Dan

T15 air filter was black as well as radiator and shroud as well as starter and generator. Some new old stock parts I have acquired were black or olive drab. Several restorers of the T15 are using olive drab as the engine color? From the manual it looks like the engine was gray. Dan

Some things I notice seem different. The manifold does not seem the same. There are no threaded ports on the intake part for the various steel lines. The sparkplug wire holder seems to be twice as long as the early T15s used also fuel pump is not the same. Oil filler tube should be straight. Engine mounts are different. The starter looks like it could be used as well as the generator although the generator is not the same as the one on the weasel. Distributor has vacuum advance which weasel did not have. Basically the block and head are the same as is the bell housing Dan

Okay so no response on whats what with the rear main seal so I went to my original Norwegian weasel dropped the pan and took a look. There were what looked like a slender pan gasket that appeared to extend into the holes on each side of the rear main bearing cap. The gasket was very brittle so some of it came apart when removed. I have put up some pictures of the rear mainn cap with the seal in the groove on the top of the rear main cap. No rubber crankshaft seal is used there is a deflector on the crank that keeps the oil in the pan Dan

Hi Frank I'm using devoe bar rust 235 epoxy paint. It is the closest gray for weasel I have found. I have taken some pictures of the color and the paint # Dan

After all those years of work John now for the fun stuff! Looking Good! Dan

Hi Pat I have all three of the TMs. The main seal is referenced but picture is hard to make out. I think the wood seals go on each side of the bearing cap to fill the voids on each side of the cap where it meets the oil pan gasket. I think RTV would work to fill the void instead of wood. When I got my gasket set it was for a champion engine for an auto not a weasel so a couple gaskets are a different size. I got a rear main cap cork seal that seals the oil pan to the rear main cap it is to wide and thick for the groove in the rear main cap. I could cut it down to fit the grove I suppose or fill it with RTV probably be a better seal. Dan

Hello Everyone Am starting assembly of my T15 engine and am wondering about the wood blocks that install instead of rubber seal at rear main. There is also a seal looks like cork that goes on the outside of the rear main cap. about 6 inches long or so. If anyone can clue me in where the wood blocks go and where to get them? When I took engine apart there were no wood blocks?? Dan

John It is going to be awesome!!

you can cut out sections of your t15 tracks and splice in to the m7 tracks. I think the m7 had 36 and t15 41 pads. This is only feasible if your inner bands can be repaired basically smoothed out. My inner bands were broken and checked and even had chunks out of them. I spliced them together in the middle of a pad. 4 sections per side then tied them together with 1/2" belt . The hard part was drilling all the holes. I used flexco 140E conveyor clips. Gave it a nicer look than using those washers. Lets face it though the T15 is never going to be what the M29 is as running gear parts are to hard to come by or non existent so basically it is a show machine or museum piece. Bands in my view are only part of the problem...cool looking machine though and only a few will ever run kinda sad but true. Dan

You are aware that Mike Howard is making or planning on making new bands for the T15. Rob Walsh has been working on the design. If your tracks are really rough that is probably your best option. I was fortunate enough to have bands that were somewhat salvageable. As i worked on the T15 track I came to realize it is a very weak track with only the two bands. I could see why the machine had problems keeping them on. Even if you go with new inner bands I wold also add an outer band to stabilize the track. Just my opinion Dan

I used E6000 and then took a flap disc and sanded smooth. It seemed to work good as a filler basically though it is cosmetic the outside belting is what keeps it all together. I had to section the tracks in 4 spots. I put E6000 in the joint. I do have several wheels that still have rubber on them that I don't want to get rid of I would trade though for parts I need like a diluter tank or other T15 parts. The wheel rubber on the T15 is exactly the same as m29c same size and shape. Dan

Excellent John. Nice detailed pictures. Dan

Thanks for the information Frank. I will post pictures of my sender when I get started on repairing it.I found another sender on Ebay and bought it for the gears.and float. The top is a different style so nothing I can use there. Anyway looking forward to getting it cleaned up and hopefully work again. Dan

That's some really nice work on the fuel sending gauge. I am planning on opening mine up. It was nice to see your picture of the inside. What are you using for rivets to for the cover to the flange? Also it looks like you replaced the tube. Is it soldered in? I have one good gear so will need to replace one. I have another gauge for a different vehicle I was thinking I could use the gears. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. Dan

I have an M29C with a badly beat up bottom looks like it was dropped on tree stumps. This looks like an ideal way to deal with that kind of damage. Dan