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M29

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Everything posted by M29

  1. I have the data plates Jim and all the small stuff only the tanks remain. It looks like it was a nice hull when left to the elements. Dan
  2. Thanks Jim for your expertise on this. In addition I am glad to see you on the site. Dan
  3. Thanks for the pictures. I can do this on all my shot hold downs. Dan
  4. Only reason I pointed to 3M 5200 is that I personally use it a lot as I am in the marine industry; It is used extensively here in my area in the boat yards. Sika Flex is another popular manufacturer of sealing products here as well. I am not saying anything negative about other products though just what I am personally familiar with and have used . A few points about 5200 is it is paintable, cleans and fairs nicely with acetone and can even dry under water.without waiting for it to cure. it is really great stuff. I prefer to use the fast cure version. The main point I was trying to make in my earlier post was sealing of the hat channels and seams on the weasel body that are exposed to water. It seems like the Achilles heel of the weasel is to have all the water and dirt collecting under them which over time leads to rust. I was thinking today about all the years I have had my 1st weasel (bought it in 1975 Sam Wiener Motors New York)) and how many times I jumped in it with snow all over my boots (Alaska) which then melted and became a watery puddle with no where to drain to but under the hat channels. Then I didn't care so much now 40 years later I see the damage done and want to improve my weasel by using modern products and techniques with out compromising to much originality The weasel when designed was never thought to have a life expectancy of so many years. I might even go so far after replacing the hat channels and some floor plate to rhino line the floor pan. This would make it virtually impervious to water damage. Dan
  5. That jeep looks really nice Pat I watched all your videos as you rebuilt it. I saw the paint product John pictured online but would like to see a color sample. Your jeep Pat looks similar to the color of the early layer of paint on my weasel. The color on the long lost floater weasel post is the original color although faded. I really don't like the looks of that shade looks sort of yellow brown to me. I am not going to have everything correct on my weasels I know that but will strive for close compromises. Epoxy paint is great. If you plan on water use of the weasel maybe sealing under or at least around the edge of the hat channel flanges with 3M 5200 sealant to keep water and moisture out of the inside of those hat channels would be a good idea. It would be time consuming to do a nice job of sealing them all but would go along way to prevent any future rust especially hidden rust. The beauty of 3M 5200 is it cleans up and smooths out nicely with acetone so almost is invisible. I know on my floater weasel I will do this to all my seams and anywhere a bolt is installed as well. Put it on the threads before install. Where the tanks bolt up to the main body and between the flange would be a prime place to seal. Anyway just some thoughts. Dan
  6. hi Everyone Does anyone know the proper olive drab color the weasel was painted when out of factory. Is there a known paint formula or code that my local auto paint supplier could use to mix it. Any information is appreciated. I have heard is was lusterless olive drab and see it available online, but don't like the idea of buying it online if my local supplier can mix it. Dan Dan
  7. This weasel is located 70 miles out of Nome Alaska. It is in a very wild area. Lots of bears. I had to cut a trail back to it with a chainsaw quite a distance. It was spooky getting parts off and wondering if I was being watched by a Grizzly bear who might try to make a meal of me. I did have a side arm but working to get parts off and trying to stay alert was challenging at best. Dan
  8. I got all the small jewelry last summer only float tanks remain attached. Dan
  9. Hi Everyone Here are some interesting pictures of an old floater weasel in Alaska. It was stripped of engine and suspension. and drug off to a lonely patch of woods and abandoned. I am going to see if I can salvage the float tanks this summer. The bottoms are rusted through badly but still rebuildable. Anyway it was a a nice find to bad it wasn't 45 years ago. But then nobody cared!'
  10. So this is where all the European weasels went. I thought Laurent had them!
  11. Jim Gilmore from the old weasel site has lots of info on serial numbers you might want to contact him his email is jgilmore@ptd.net. Dan
  12. I have a set on my weasel but the springs are shot. I wonder if there is a way of opening the barrel where the spring is and putting in a new spring??
  13. The guy I bought my plates from is still advertising on Ebay. The plates were very nice. He is in Poland.
  14. Yes they are longer than the seat hold downs. I have never seen any for sale so might be one of those special run items.
  15. I am looking to acquire a couple hold downs for the splash shield on my floater weasel. Anyone know where I might come up with these. Thanks Dan
  16. work of art rob thanks for your efforts dan
  17. HI Jesse From the pictures of your floater rebuild of all the suspension parts was curious what you did about rebuilding of the bogeys seals bearings and replacing yoke/spring bolts. Did you replace with new or were most of the parts in good shape.I am tempted to put in all new bearings seals but price would easily be a grand. In reality I will probably reuse any good ones and call it a day. The spring yoke bolts are worn and there is slop so will probably replace. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Dan
  18. Very Nice Jesse wish mine was as far along Dan
  19. Hi Everyone Can anyone tell me what part # your using for replacement seals in the bogey arm. Also the bearing and race part # Thanks Dan
  20. Idler wheels on ebay are now 95 each times 2 per idler. Dan
  21. M29

    Bogey Bolts

    Hi Everyone I have been looking at many of my existing leaf spring yoke bolts that have wear and cause excessive play in my bogey arm assembly. I have been looking a the expensive original bolts on eBay and other sites. I am wondering why all the threaded bolts through the springs yoke etc. It would be nice if some of these if not all could be non threaded and drilled and tapped for a grease zerk. Any info would be appreciated. Dan
  22. HI Everyone I am thinking about doing what Dave did on his tracks but was interested in having the belts custom made in an endless band to match the length of the existing weasel bands. I know width for the inner band plus thickness is important for pitch. I have also been investigating having the holes pre punched as well. It would be nice if the belting could be bought ready made to size with holes so all you would have to do is bolt on your pads. I want to match the new bands in looks as closely to the original as possible. One piece belt with no splice would be nice as well. I know this makes the tracks harder for remove and install. My questions are what are the specific measurements of the hole spacing for the pads and thickness of conveyor belt to allow for proper pitch. I have some old tracks with intact bands I could copy but am concerned about stretch etc. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. I have attached a picture of a track I re-banded with belt in Alaska in the late 70s. The original band on one of the tracks broke so I made these. The mistake I made was I didnot use a precision jig, for hole spacing and did not have the right thickness of belt for the bands. The tracks worked and lasted for many years but sprocket wear seemed excessive plus sprockets jumped and banged when turning. I made these with one wide belt on each side of the bogey wheels sort of like the LAR track. The weasel after this track modification was much slower than it was with the original banded tracks. Back in those days there was no forum to go to for advise you were on your own so now with all the weasel fans out there in weasel land no reason to not to get it right Dan
  23. HI Dave What bogey wheels are we talking? Don't remember? Dan
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