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Lighthorse 31

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Lighthorse 31 last won the day on February 1 2022

Lighthorse 31 had the most liked content!

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  • Vehicles & Projects
    M29C Weasel s/n: 6739
  • Location
    Colorado Springs, CO

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  1. Thanks Patrick! I was able to find part numbers for most of the things I acquired except these. The guy did have a few jeep items laying around. Maybe some of these came from that. Mark
  2. So here's a couple more I can't figure out. I've looked through the parts manual pictures but without a reference number it's leading nowhere. I have 3 sizes of the cone bearings too. Wondering if they go to different locations on the track rollers or something? Mark
  3. I started going through my extra parts and found some tyranny stuff. Looks like a mix of other part like from the rear gear case maybe? Some are NOS, some appear very lightly used. Looks like I have the major parts to build up the T84 if I decide to go that route. Oh, I also have an unopened tyranny rebuild kit for the T84. I 'm Just wondering if it's worth it. Or just stick with the T86. Any thoughts?
  4. Got the transmission out and at appears I have a T86E-1. It looks to be in good shape. Oil was clean, no water, and everything spins and shifts smoothly. I also have a NOS casing for a T84 G-1. Can I get some help with questions? 1. The T86 has a little wobble in 2 spots which I pointed to with a pencil. Slight wobble where the bearing race sits in the housing and in between the two gears I pointed to. Is this OK or normal? 2. Is it best to stick with the T86, or build up the T84? I'm not super concerned right now with historical correctness. Which would be the better move? 3. I have a couple NOS innards for the T84, but nowhere near everything I'll need. Are the components in the T86 compatible with a T84? If not, would I be able to find all the parts I need? Thanks for all the help guys! Mark
  5. I finally got the replacement engine I acquired disassembled and cleaned the block as best I could. I also cleaned the pistons up. Hopefully they can be re-used. I also included a pic of a couple things I finished rebuilding. Just the carb, oil pump and distributer drive assembly. Not much but it's a start! I will be dropping off the major engine components to a local machine shop who specializes in old engines so they can help me make sure everything is within tolerance and goes back together correctly. I do have a question about the pistons though. On 3 of them the connecting rod swings back and forth fairly easily. The other three are VERY stiff. I took them apart and the piston pin pretty much has to be hammered into the stiff ones on re-assembly. The other 3 that move easy I can kinda get in by hand with only a slight tapping. Is it ok for them to be so stiff? I saw on page 78 of TM9-1772 that the piston can be heated to allow the piston pin to be slid in more easily, but I couldn't get them in without using a rubber hammer using that method either. Is this normal? Mark
  6. Does anyone have a web address or phone number for Accu-rite machine in California? I looked on the internet and can't find what looks right for them. Mark
  7. Try rustoleum smoke gray. One of the other members said it's a replacement for machine gray and is the same color. I found it at Lowes today. Mark
  8. Totally, thanks for the advice rocker. Now I just need to find room for it in the garage. I did manage to convince our mechanic at work that he "needs" a sand blasting cabinet. So at least I don't need to get one of those, ha ha ha!
  9. Well there it is! Guess I'm getting a press. Thank you sir!
  10. Hey Patrick (or anyone else who can help), The shaft is stuck solid in the body of my pump. It does spin and run really nice though. I can probably just leave it for now, but would really like to change, or at least inspect everything inside while it's out. However, the shaft is stuck solid into the body. Just to clarify, does it press out from the pully side toward the impeller side? If I place a socket or something of the right size against the bearing outer race and press there will I be reasonably assured not to damage the bearing? Mark
  11. Thanks for the reply Dan. Sorry, but could you clear up what you mean? Are you saying machine gray is best but it has been discontinued and replaced by smoke gray? Mark
  12. Thanks Patrick. I ended up getting it out, but had to take the gear off the shift from inside the engine. The outer gear was forced on because the woodruff key wasn't in straight. On a second topic, I've looked all through the forum and have found a lot of references to the engine color bring a gray-blue but not much on specifically what exact color it is. Has anyone found that color in a spray can that I won't have to mix up and put in a spray gun?
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