OZM29C

Better than new👍

@Patrick Tipton You are right about not being a problem in a cooler climate. My weasel here when driving in hotter weather fries my leg, dehydrates me, there is good chance of sunburn which all in turn limits the time I can drive it. BTW I have it on my bucket list to finally see and touch snow. Hopefully that will happen when we cruise Alaska next year. The air vent next to my foot is permanently shut. Unfortunately the hot air exits the engine compartment through a rectangular hole cut in the dashboard (under the linkage cover in question) to accommodate the modified accelerator linkage. I am going to see if there is a thin section insulating board available.

Fellows, Take a look at the photo in the drop box link below. I have circled an area on the accelerator linkage cover that needs to be insulated to prevent my lower leg being burnt from the heat radiating out of the engine compartment. Unfortunately there is not a lot of room to move my lower leg to avoid the hot spot and in turn this problem dictates how long I can drive the weasel for. Moving the steering tiller is not an option as my leg tends to rest on this accelerator linkage cover when mobile. I am sure that there must be some thin insulating material out there. Your thoughts are welcomed. Cheers. https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/v3ygbnkkk6nigd654alo6/Weasel-Hot-Spot.jpg?rlkey=pk0wc9hakoidmykg3fmzzfjih&dl=0

@Bravo28 BZ on your efforts so far. Getting the engine to run on the test stand is a major milestone completed. Now unfortunately you have the rest of the restoration to complete before getting to enjoy your Weasel 😪 I think the old saying 'Patience young grasshopper, patience' is worth a mention here. 😁

Thanks again Patrick @Patrick Tipton Here is the last video that I took down there. https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/aqqgpne1kbeqyjfflsj8b/Weasel-at-Corowa1.ts?rlkey=1t1bmtd916r4q1jre1b9ukf9o&dl=0

Another link; https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/g77d2ro4s8bmn95usnbnh/Weasel-2-at-Corowa-Mar-24.ts?rlkey=r0mebeiqlvz20nq7nc3gro4io&dl=0

With Patrick's @Patrick Tipton help, Lets see if this link works; https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/294hy5n6nime1jc1rilce/Weasel-3-at-Corowa-March-24.ts?rlkey=f9rb73gcmz5ox7zphlzkbcu2l&dl=0

I’ll have to ask @Patrick Tipton Patrick how to post more videos as the message I keep getting is file too large

Hopefully the video links will work. IMG_5846.mov

A couple of weeks back I took the weasel down to the Corowa Military Vehicle meet here in Australia. It is the biggest gathering of MVs here in Oz attracting over 230 vehicles this year. Unfortunately I missed the street parade but part I participated in most other activities. The weasel attracted a lot of interest with having to answer questions like does it float (yes I know!), where is the propeller and what type of guns did it have. Anyway I ticked off one of my weasel to do list items, driving into a servo and filling the tank with petrol. I also took the weasel swimming in the lagoon but not in the river proper as the current was way too strong. I caught up with a lot of like minded MV owners but the 12 hour 900km one way trips trip in the truck were tedious. He is a link to the event https://www.corowaswim-in.org and https://www.facebook.com/corowaswimin?mibextid=dGKdO6

@Military Track SupplyBZ to you guys in making this long held Weasel restoration dream come to fruition. Over the years I have seen a number attempts by like minded entrepreneurs to re-manufacture replacement OEM style track bands. Although your track bands will be a huge step forward, replacement track bands do need to be complimented with new manufactured Grouser plates. Its certainly a lottery nowadays to assume that 80 year old OEM grouser plates will still stand up to the rigours of Weasel driving and manoeuvring. Like your Halftrack tracks on offer, I would hope to see a plan put in place to offer a full replacement track but like everything nowadays I understand that cost will be the driving factor.

@Patrick Tipton BZ Patrick 👍 Seems like you are a Champion engine whisperer 😂

@Darryl You might have to replace the ignition distributor drive shaft oil seal, part number SD905152, that is located within the cylinder block. Unfortunately I don't have the modern CR part number. Having said that, this may help. The dimensions of the said seal are as follows; OD 1.064" - 1.068" Shaft Dia 0.4895" - 0.4905" Width 3/8" Manufacturer - Chicargo Rawhide

@Darryl I have posted this information in other posts in this forum but I think that the information below will be relevant to your post as well. When you re-assemble your distributor and angle drive, you will need to more than likely replace the old cork seals. Below is a picture of a modern equivalent that I used in my weasel. I got these from Fluid Seals and Packing in Sydney but I am sure that they would be available over your way.

@Darryl I just used a standard N70ZZ(I think) 4wd battery available from any reputable aftermarket accessories store. I can check the CCA if you need that info. I did slightly modify the repo battery retaining clamp to fit a modern battery. BTW, I am taking my weasel down to Corowa next week so if you are coming over to Oz for that get together, please make a point of introducing yourself?

@jdikemanThe transmission synchronisers were doing their job. Can you share some happy snaps?

@Bravo28 This weasel problem of yours will soon pass into your repertoire of tall stories that will most certainly be shared over a cold beer with like minded friends. BZ on your efforts to make sure that the job is done right the first time.

@Patrick Tipton Well done again Patrick👍 I would consider installing the final drive as a Character Building’ job. The new felt seals that I had installed in my final drive housing proved to be a dog of a job to get the outer tubes (trumpets) in. Did you fit the 1/2” copper gaskets to the trumpet retaining bolts/nuts? I also had to replace the factory shims that took up the excess clearance between the hull and final drive. Did you install post photo the final drive breather canister that sits atop the final drive?

@Patrick Tipton Like a bought one Patrick. Well done 👍 In my case I followed the brake band set up instructions in the manual to a tee. Particularly the cam set up although I must admit that I made a small error of judgement in the initial set up but that was easily sorted. The only other bit of advice that I could offer is to ensure that you do indeed use the correct grade of oil in the final drive. In my case I used a Castrol product but I am sure that there are plenty of alternatives available. CAstrol Classic XL30.pdf

@Bravo28 You are a brave man by choosing to run a phenolic camshaft timing gear. Might I suggest that you take the opportunity to change out to an after market Aluminium timing gear. One of forum members @Byron came to grief after a short time with a phenolic NOS camshaft timing gear having been stripped of its drive teeth. At this point of time I just can't find @Byron's report on this disaster.

@DonM Probably a bit late now that your metal is bent but I did find these drawings I made many years ago that may still be of help to you. Weasel Contour Flange.pdf Weasel Hat section 1.pdf Weasel offset hat section.pdf Weasel Sponson.pdf Weasel angle Brace.pdf Weasel Track skirt.pdf

@Bravo28 Another quick thought, have you primed the oil pump using the as pictured?

@Bravo28 Just another quick check. Can you confirm that your oil pan dipstick (oil gauge) is indeed a weasel one? Although the Car and weasel share the same overall dipstick, the actual oil level markings do differ.

@darth_kitten Just a thought! With your hull repairs proceeding at a good pace, now would be the time to consider installing a facility to ease the draining of oil from the final drive. The photos below show how I installed the drain system on my M29C hull and a friends T24 hull. Although differing markedly in their design , both ideas have equal merit. Cheers

@DonMTalking from experience, I too would definitely allow some extra length. My photos below better illustrate what I had to deal with. I had to do some creative welding to fill the gap.