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OZM29C

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Everything posted by OZM29C

  1. @Patrick Tipton BZ Patrick 👍 Seems like you are a Champion engine whisperer 😂
  2. @Darryl You might have to replace the ignition distributor drive shaft oil seal, part number SD905152, that is located within the cylinder block. Unfortunately I don't have the modern CR part number. Having said that, this may help. The dimensions of the said seal are as follows; OD 1.064" - 1.068" Shaft Dia 0.4895" - 0.4905" Width 3/8" Manufacturer - Chicargo Rawhide
  3. @Darryl I have posted this information in other posts in this forum but I think that the information below will be relevant to your post as well. When you re-assemble your distributor and angle drive, you will need to more than likely replace the old cork seals. Below is a picture of a modern equivalent that I used in my weasel. I got these from Fluid Seals and Packing in Sydney but I am sure that they would be available over your way.
  4. @Darryl I just used a standard N70ZZ(I think) 4wd battery available from any reputable aftermarket accessories store. I can check the CCA if you need that info. I did slightly modify the repo battery retaining clamp to fit a modern battery. BTW, I am taking my weasel down to Corowa next week so if you are coming over to Oz for that get together, please make a point of introducing yourself?
  5. @jdikemanThe transmission synchronisers were doing their job. Can you share some happy snaps?
  6. @Bravo28 This weasel problem of yours will soon pass into your repertoire of tall stories that will most certainly be shared over a cold beer with like minded friends. BZ on your efforts to make sure that the job is done right the first time.
  7. @Patrick Tipton Well done again Patrick👍 I would consider installing the final drive as a Character Building’ job. The new felt seals that I had installed in my final drive housing proved to be a dog of a job to get the outer tubes (trumpets) in. Did you fit the 1/2” copper gaskets to the trumpet retaining bolts/nuts? I also had to replace the factory shims that took up the excess clearance between the hull and final drive. Did you install post photo the final drive breather canister that sits atop the final drive?
  8. @Patrick Tipton Like a bought one Patrick. Well done 👍 In my case I followed the brake band set up instructions in the manual to a tee. Particularly the cam set up although I must admit that I made a small error of judgement in the initial set up but that was easily sorted. The only other bit of advice that I could offer is to ensure that you do indeed use the correct grade of oil in the final drive. In my case I used a Castrol product but I am sure that there are plenty of alternatives available. CAstrol Classic XL30.pdf
  9. @Bravo28 You are a brave man by choosing to run a phenolic camshaft timing gear. Might I suggest that you take the opportunity to change out to an after market Aluminium timing gear. One of forum members @Byron came to grief after a short time with a phenolic NOS camshaft timing gear having been stripped of its drive teeth. At this point of time I just can't find @Byron's report on this disaster.
  10. @DonM Probably a bit late now that your metal is bent but I did find these drawings I made many years ago that may still be of help to you. Weasel Contour Flange.pdf Weasel Hat section 1.pdf Weasel offset hat section.pdf Weasel Sponson.pdf Weasel angle Brace.pdf Weasel Track skirt.pdf
  11. @Bravo28 Another quick thought, have you primed the oil pump using the as pictured?
  12. @Bravo28 Just another quick check. Can you confirm that your oil pan dipstick (oil gauge) is indeed a weasel one? Although the Car and weasel share the same overall dipstick, the actual oil level markings do differ.
  13. @darth_kitten Just a thought! With your hull repairs proceeding at a good pace, now would be the time to consider installing a facility to ease the draining of oil from the final drive. The photos below show how I installed the drain system on my M29C hull and a friends T24 hull. Although differing markedly in their design , both ideas have equal merit. Cheers
  14. @DonMTalking from experience, I too would definitely allow some extra length. My photos below better illustrate what I had to deal with. I had to do some creative welding to fill the gap.
  15. @darth_kitten Just adding more to @Patrick Tiptoncomments. As you are repairing an M29C hull, the upper joint as discussed can be easily hidden. If you look at the attached drawing, I have highlighted the area in question, where the new sheet metal can be grafted into the hull. The weld joint can then be filled using a mig welder and then once the surface has been cleaned and preserved, the upper flange of the track skirt will cover the joint in its entirety. As pointed out by Patrick, one good thing that comes out of this repair method is you can get in to clean and preserve the inaccessible areas behind the angled hull brace. I have attached a number of photos showing how I repaired this area. Note that the sponson forward of the centre bulkhead had to be completely replaced. Keep up the good work. Cheers. Sponson general assembly - Revision 1.pdf
  16. @DonMYou are going to need these when you assemble both Distributor and angle drive back into the cylinder block. BTW, if you divide the dimensions shown on the package by 25.4, that will give you the old imperial decimal dimension. Cheers
  17. @Guido Ferluga The closest match to the male wiper plug is the Cole Hersee 1465 Converter Plug. See Page 119 in the attached catalogue. Unfortunately they are no longer manufactured however they do turn up on ebay from time to time. I have attached a photo showing my wiper motors during repairs. The grey wiper motor has the Cole Hersee 1465 plug fitted and the OD wiper motor has an OEM plug fitted. Good luck. Cheers John W. Cole Hersee MasterCatalog.pdf
  18. @DonM I can see 0.5 in the photo. Just a guess 0.5mm = 0.020"Inches and 1.00mm = 0.040"Inches. Can you measure the diameter of the bore? Seems unusual though that the block has been bored to different sizes but hey, anything is possible.
  19. @darth_kitten Probably not the answer you are looking for but realistically I believe that this is your only option. I am sure that drawings may be available from Studebaker that will cost both time and $$$$$. In order to keep your restoration project moving along, my best advice would be to seek out another weasel where the assembly in question is still in place, can be measured, photographed and reverse engineered in order to fabricate a replacement. Aiming for 100% perfection at times can be an unrealistic and perhaps an unecessary goal.
  20. A bit late I know but I have only just got back to my PC. I would just like to take this opportunity to wish the Weasel fraternity a Very Merry Christmas and a Safe and Prosperous New Year. All the best from down under. Cheers John W. AKA ozm29c
  21. Kind of reinforces my thought that your particular weasel may have gone through a 1950's Ordnance depot rebuild programme. Keep up the good work👍
  22. @M29C3284Thanks for your valuable suggestion. I can confidently say that all suspension bolts and bushings were replaced with NOS parts. I had to replace them all due to severe wear from lack of lubrication. That’s the Achilles heel of a weasel, the constant need to keep the suspension regularly greased.
  23. @Patrick Tipton Bizarre as it might sound, I am going to use a small spirit level and then lay against the outside of the bogey wheels to ensure that the bogey wheels are correctly orientated vertically after I make my shim adjustments. BTW I too am running the LAR tracks.
  24. @Patrick Tipton@M29C3284 Patrick, This topic is reason enough to start a new thread so we don't hijack @darth_kitten's thread. I initially set my weasel up with one thick and one thin shim per bogey arm, similar to what M29C3284 had installed on his weasel. I found that after some testing (Both land and water) that the bogey wheels were pushing the track guides to the outside which in turn was hammering the track guide tops into the track sprocket guide plates. I then fitted 10mm (Approx 3/8"Inch), see attached photo, shims to the bogey arms and this had the reverse effect by pushing the track/guides back to the inside and chaffing the outer side of the track guides. So in my case the sweet spot lies somewhere in between. All of the adjustments were made with the suspension unloaded (weasel lifted off the ground) however the next adjustment I make will be with the suspension under load. Unfortunately I could find little information on this subject in the TM's but hopefully Patrick you may have access to more documentation. I did find a photo in the attached weasel brochure that shows some special tooling/jigs to set the suspension up in the factory. Interesting subject.
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