OZM29C
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- 283 replies
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Hi Bryon, The following photos show how I replaced my engine cover seal. I have used a rubber extrusion in lieu of the original webbing piping. Also I believe that the seal is positioned on the higher side of the engine cover. If it was placed on the low side, it would not seal against the hull side due to a channel running fore and aft in the hull side. Sorry about the dust on the engine cover.
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Hi Byron, I can't answer your question asking if the shift lever and steering tiller arm support should have one or two bronze bushings. In my case I erred on the side of caution and fitted two bushings. BTW my high/low range selector has bronze bushings as well. While you have the assembly apart, can I suggest that you add some grease ways to the tiller and shift selector shafts.
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@ByronI have taken some photos for you that might help answer your questions. Will post photos tomorrow from a better internet connection.
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Driver’s side panel with heat shield in place, capstan winch engagement cable installed, clutch cable in, ventilator lid hinges in, felt air deflectors in place.
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An economical fix for your tracks would be to adopt a system similar to what Tom at Snake River 4x4 developed; http://snakeriver4x4.com/weasel-parts I do know that nowadays Tom does not offer the track belt kits for sale however his website shows what can be done with your tracks.
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Just going through some of my old archived weasel photos and came across these photos showing M114 tracks being retrofitted to a Weasel. The photos date back to 2001. You will see in the photos a reversed control weasel. I would hope that the owners of these weasels do visit this forum and could tell us more about their modifications.
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@Patrick TiptonAnother piece of Weasel 'Unobtanium'🙂 Well done! I note that this set of tracks has the standard sized (high) track guides.
- 356 replies
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- 283 replies
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Yes @Patrick Tipton The weasel is finally starting to come together. What I forgot to mention was that the accelerator pedal in my photo has been modified IAW MWO ORD G179-W9. I have also added a grease fitting to the accelerator pedal bushing. Maybe an over kill but nice to be able to lubricate the pedal shaft if needs be.
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@Kevin Vogel I have posted these photos and info here on the forum in a separate thread but I will post again to help you out. More that likely when you get your pump apart, the mechanical seal surface will be either worn or corroded. In my case as you can see in the photos, my seal surface was beyond redemption. I chose to machine and fit a replacement 316 stainless steel collar. Any competent machine shop could do this job. I used a generic Chinese water pump bearing and also machined it to size. I have had my engine running on a test stand and so far so good. The photos will better show what I am describing. Good luck with your repair. Water pump bearing.pdf Water_pump_integral_shaft_bearings.pdf
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I had a very productive day on the weasel today. Internal hull painting is finally done. I then managed to fit some weasel Jewellery bringing this successful day to an end.
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This is how I got my pulley off. I have made a strong back adaptor that bolts to the pulley flange. At the centre of the flange/adaptor I have added a hole which allows a drift to be positioned against the water pump shaft which in turn allows the pulley to be pressed off using a hydraulic press. The picture below better shows what I am describing.
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@Patrick TiptonPatrick, again your attention to detail is commendable. Once the side is in, where to next? Can I make a suggestion for a practical mod while you have the hull repairs under way. I believe that a final drive oil drainage system would be of benefit to you further down the track. Below are photos of the two different styles of Final drive drain. The first is for a T24 final drive that I believe was not fitted with a drain plug. I have had to drill and tap a plug into the final drive housing. In the latter photo I have fitted a removable hull plate to access the later style M29C final drive drain plug. Hope this makes sense. Cheers
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I had three take out cranks sent over from the USA plus the original crank and a crank from a donor engine. I sent them all up to a good friend of mine that owns and operates and engine reconditioning business. Unfortunately he did not elaborate on where the cracks were, just that they were scrap metal. I actually had his shop rebuild my weasel engine as he said that the assembly cost is a fraction of the total cost as compared to the machining costs. He also mentioned that if there are any problems during assembly, they can rectify the problem there and then. My engine was no different to other engines. In my case they had problems with the piston pins. Anyway my engine was balanced and the lubricating oil system was primed before I took delivery of it.
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@ByronI fitted an Aluminium camshaft timing gear to my engine when I rebuilt it. Peace of mind! Also I would consider it mandatory to have your crankshaft Crack tested. I had 5 take out crankshafts fail crack testing before I finally found a good Crank, only because it was NOS.
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@Patrick TiptonGreat work Patrick. Watch out that you don’t drive yourself to insanity with grinding the plug welds flush. 😀
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I have spent most of yesterday and half of today working on the inside of the hull in order to prepare it for painting. I had to vacuum out as much of the leftover sandblasting grit as humanly possible, then remove and clean the blobs of Alumilastic that had been forced through to the inner hull when I was bolting the suspension on and also touch up areas of etch primer that the sandblaster missed. Anyway the inner hull now looks respendent in its first coat of OD. The two unpainted areas in the lower hull were where I stood to paint. I will touch them up later.
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@Byron They are radiator air deflectors. I will be installing mine very soon so I will take some photos for you.