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OZM29C

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Everything posted by OZM29C

  1. Here's where it pays to exercise a bit of caution. Don't let the bogey wheel disengage from the seal or else the seal has to be removed from the bearing carrier and the whole process starts again. Having said that a tiny bit of slack is needed to remove the split collar.
  2. Its time to gently prise the plastic dust cap out of the seal.
  3. Then I pushed the dust cap and seal over the bogey wheel shaft
  4. Then I pushed the plastic dust cap into the seal to expand it.
  5. I put this up on the Weasel FB group but I think its important to make sure that the info is also captured here on this forum. First off I lay the split collar on the inside of the bogey wheel.
  6. Here is a photo of the special installation tool I made to install the OEM bogey wheel seals to prevent the seal lip from rolling back. I will post photos of this tool in use when I have enough hardware together to assemble another bogey wheel set. I had to come up with something to install the OEM leather seals as I was quoted $536.80 for a replacement set of 32 CR12391 seals.
  7. Larry here is another link to a guy who is casting return rollers etc for his homebuilt tank. Makes for an interesting read regardless; http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/showthread.php?t=27521&page=10&highlight=panzer
  8. My short but productive holiday has come to an end. I have spent days painting the myriad of parts that go into a weasel. Here are a couple of happy snaps. I am by no ways close to finished as yet though. All I can say is the preparation and painting is very time consuming.
  9. Regretably no, I don't have any drawings of this rudder cable conduit clamp set.
  10. Here are the clamps used to secure the rudder cable conduit. Note the half nuts!
  11. Is there a special technique to stop the lip of an OEM leather bogey wheel seal rolling in on itself when assembling the bogey wheel? I have had the seals soaking in oil for about two days before trying to install them. I have kneeded the leather to make it more supple. I have placed the seal on a size for size mandrell to try and stretch the leather before fitting So far none of these actions have met with success. I think that I will fit the modern CR seal if I can't find a solution to this problem.
  12. The photos below unfortunately do not convey the time and expense needed to assemble these parts.
  13. @Jesse Browning Would you like a drawing?
  14. Last but not least I made the end stops for the rudder cable where the cable terminates inside the Steerer. In the first photo (I think this photo belongs to Jeep Tom??) you can see that the cable is terminated with permanent crimped stops. I opted to use an adjustable crimp. I will add more to this thread when I install the rudders.
  15. I first machined the blanks and then make a simple press tool up to emulate the OEM style crimps. In the end a couple of crimps were a bit wonky but I am happy with them.
  16. Next came the rudder cables. I had a length of surplus GPA rudder cable left over from a past restoration but I had to fit the unique ends to them. You can see them in the photo below. Thanks Brock J for the photo.
  17. One of the many jobs to be done was to refurbish my Steerer and make up a pair of rudder cables. Here is the Steerer. Just needed a couple of bronze bushings made to take out the sloppiness.
  18. Finally, for some reason, the short wiper linkage arm is always missing from weasels. Gary S. years ago did a small production run of these linkage arms and also made an exact copy of the wiper pivot retaining nuts. I will add more to this post when I assemble my windscreen.
  19. These wiper pivots are made of unobtanium.
  20. All in all I was more than happy with the end result. Two wiper motors ready for painting.
  21. A friend of mine had a small computer controller paper cutting machine that came in handy to cut the necessary gaskets needed to reassemble the wiper motor.
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