I tracked down your quote. Looks like you need a differential. Shipping is going to be a lot. It may be worth a drive for you. Take some of my other junk home too.
If everything is adjusted right, and the linkage well oiled, it steers with very little pressure. On grass it steers harder. Asphalt is pretty good. Steering is unbelievably sensitive on snow, and quite a thrill.
Search for one of the rock crawler forums or one of the suppliers. This is a very popular transmission among them, and lots of parts and info are available.
My experience with the fuel pumps is that the die-cast material is the weak point. Many parts are screwed to the die cast and the threads tend to rot away. Especially had trouble with the brush retaining screws coming out. I finally went with 1970s Cadillac fuel pump inside the original case and brackets. Works perfectly, and sounds exactly the same.
Looks great John. We had to do it a different way on our 2 floaters. We put the engine and capstan drive shaft in first, then the radiator and shroud. It may be impossible to connect the drive shaft to the engine once its installed. Theres just no room to get your hand in there. I hope it works for you.
The original piping was vinyl coated canvas with a 3/8” rubber or rope bead. The sheet metal clamping plate was held in place by wide, flat head sheet metal screws. The picture is mine with a rope bead.
I think the threaded plugs you are referring to are the actual jets. There is a tiny hole in them. They are probably plugged. They can be cleaned by heating them and dipping them in water. The steam generated will blow out the debris.
The common WWII Weasel video answers that question, and also why they would make a boat out of a spot welded sheet metal vehicle. The video shows the army’s requirements for the weasel. It was only required to last 1000 miles.
I have 2 intact left sides for the M29C. The bottom edges will probably need some work as they are rusty. Maybe someone can tell us how if it will fit a T24?