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Jesse Browning

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Everything posted by Jesse Browning

  1. I see some waves in the side. I also see the “down” rope dangerously close to being fouled in the engine. He also has the engine angled different from what the manual says. I tried his way, and it works better.
  2. Nice. One of our floater hulls had been almost completely skinned with 16 gauge steel. They did a really nice job. I can imagine that took a huge amount of time. Then it was primed a bright yellow. Anyone know where that might have been done?
  3. Weasels were scarce in both. Even more scarce were markings and record keeping. They were on Iwo Jima, and the sixth Marine Division had at least one on Okinawa. Looks like the Seabees tried them out.
  4. I found that just about everything on the hull is easier to work on if its on its side.
  5. Here are 3 M29Cs to add. 1) SN: 10986 no tag or reg number. Engine: T24I7410 2) SN: 55-69 no tag or reg number. Engine: T24I3687 3) engine number only: T24I0728
  6. Ive used straight 30 weight in all three major components. Ive used Valvoline almost all my life. No particular reason, just habit. Lately Ive used Tractor Supply’s house brand because I’m limited in where I can shop.
  7. We acquired a set of top bows with this last weasel. Don’t know if its original or not. Looks kind of hokey. It’s missing the two rods (D). Question: how do rods (D) attach to (B), and (E)? Also, is the height of (B) the same as of (C)? Thanks.
  8. Nice work. I found when I rebuilt my T-90 back in 2013 that there were several rock crawler companies that had single parts to entire transmissions for sale.
  9. I saw some NOS pumps for sale a few years ago. Anyone still have any?
  10. I rebuilt one a few years ago. It was pretty corroded, but I was able to clean it up and get it working. It quit again last year, and we replaced it with a modern low pressure in -tank pump. I think it was from a Cadillac or something. We attached it to the bracket for tho original pump.
  11. Ill dig out the original plate and look at it.
  12. Hull data plate that came on a spare bulkhead.
  13. I used to know where to get the spring. Maybe someone else can chime in on that. Thanks to my son for providing the pictures. I probably would have lost a finger if I had tried that now.
  14. The barrel can be reattached to the head with a screw and nut, or rivets can be used like the original build.
  15. The rod can be center drilled on the lathe in order to form a new peened end, or it can be drilled for a pin. We used a pin on this one. The rod will be about 1/8” shorter than it was before. All the internal parts, including the rod can be discarded and new ones installed. I used stainless rods on mine before. I found that 1/4” lock washers bent flat work perfectly for the washers. A cotter pin can be used, but may not clear the sides of the barrel. Here a piece of heavy wire was used.
  16. The end of this rod was set by a rivet tool. Some Ive seen had a pin to retain the washer. Grind off the peened end, or remove the pin. Then it all comes apart.
  17. Rebuilding the latches is simple. Open the barrel by grinding or drilling off the crimped end of the rivet. On this particular one, both ends were crimped. Drive the rivet out with a punch.
  18. Looks like the same idea I used when I rebuilt mine a few years ago. Are they endless? Are they for 25, or 26 shoe ( I think that the numbers)? I had some repair belts I used to locate all the holes in my first rebuild. Turned out the spacing was for the different number of grousers. It caused my grouser edges to rub together and a lot of them had to be rewelded the second time around. I used elevator bolts, which looks kind of cool but adds a huge amount of work and expense. I’d be interested in a set of 4 endless bands 7 inches wide with the holes already punched.
  19. Serial numbers? Mine: 11731. Ord: 5970. Body 7293. USA 40196127S.
  20. Grind off the small rivet head and punch it out. Remove the cotter pin at the end of the shaft. When done, you can replace the rivet, or use a small screw and nut.
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