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  1. Do you have a name for your Weasel???? Lots of folks name their Jeeps and Weasels. After working on the throttle cable and cleaning the Weasel body last night I sat down in the front room chair and finally answered the question that my Wife asked me several times over the last few weeks. What is going to be the name of our Weasel? Our 1948 CJ2A Jeep's name is "The Swiss Miss". Due to the fact she was 1 of 400 sold to the Swiss Military and 1 of the very few that made it back to the US of A. Well, due to the condition of our Weasel I named it "Rusty". My Wife approved.... So, I try to work on "Rusty" a little bit ever day. Pics will follow someday. My personal computer needs work and I'm not using my Wife's computer up to par yet. But I'm taking a few pics here and there and will start a Rebuild Thread someday. ********************** PLEASE ----- Post the Name of your Wesel and or other MV names. ----- PLEASE *************************************** Stay Safe Everyone Later 42rocker
  2. Hello All, I'm new to this forum, and like to introduce my Weasel. Off course all my other projects are not finished, and storage is a real pain....I still decided I "needed" a Weasel. So progress will be very slow and since I bought it, almost nothing happened. Although not much work, I found the hull number so here it goes: M-29-C - 6672 U.S.A. 40195512 Unfortunately the data plate is missing as this was removed before I bought the M29C. We did some trails to start the engine, but till date no luck with that. The engine spins, but no compression on at least 2 cylinders. Furthermore I found an original carburettor and the electrical fuel pump is overhauled. Still need a lot of parts to finalise the fuel pump as you can see in the picture. So herewith the pictures. Thanks for looking! Regards Frank
  3. Hi to all hope everyone is well and safe in these crazy times. I am stating to work on my t15 after a summer off, i am missing the primer pump and am wandering if there is one in somebody's stash of parts that they may want to get rid of, or if anyone has a line on an original looking off the shelf primer. Any leads welcome. Thanks Larry
  4. Greetings. Since the demise of the Weasel forum, it seems that most of the discussion around Weasel restoration has moved to Facebook. While it is nice that there is a place to find and share with other Weasel enthusiasts, I think the format offered by Facebook leaves a lot to be desired. Most importantly, posts quickly get buried and while Facebook has search features, I think the "traditional" forum approach is superior. I personally find it difficult to find information and see that most of these groups end up with the same questions and discussions over and over again. I also don't like that Facebook's algorithms are more concerned with showing ads than showing relevant information and unless you specifically check out your groups, many posts will not show up on your timeline. So while I think there is a good reason to continue to post and play on groups like the G179 on Facebook, I feel like the Weasel community needs its own active forum to provide important resources to Weasel collectors and restorers. I created Project Plough.org to serve this purpose. I have been a part of the launch and maintenance of other forums, including the successful N Tractor Club - a site dedicated to the Ford N series tractors (1939-1952). As forum technology evolved, I also learned that forum administrators don't want to be in the internet security business or the forum support business. These tasks are increasingly complicated and require full time attention. Fortunately, there are companies that will host forums like this one and they have dedicated staff to watch for internet bad guys and keep things running smoothly. They aren't perfect, but they are certainly better than I will ever be. The upside is that this forum is backed up daily. All of the technical aspects, including security, are managed by the folks who wrote the software. Importantly, this means that the information that gets shared and created will be here as long as the site is running and in the event that something bad happens, it will be easy to get a working copy of the site back up and running. A little background on me. I am the owner of Portrayal Press. We have been around since about 1980 and the founder, Dennis Spence, was very involved with the creation of the Military Vehicle Preservation Association (Member #1) and also the founding of Military Vehicle Magazine. I took the business over when he retired and have been trying to ensure that the massive amount of information and manuals that he collected continue to be made available to enthusiasts and restorers. I also publish a weekly series of videos called ShopTime on YouTube. I restored a 1943 Willys MB over the last several years and just started a T-24 restoration in January. I will be posting regularly to this forum to document the T-24 restoration and share the information that I am learning as I do the restoration. Patrick
  5. Hello here I have just bought a weasel in norway, I felt it to save it even if there is a lot of work! I want to know more information for my weasel to put it back exactly as it was. I also have the regiment marking on the bodywork but I can't find what it is. Can you help me?
  6. Attached are a series of drawings that I have made over the years to help with the restoration of my Weasel. Feel free to share and use them but please be aware that there may be some dimensional mistakes/errors in them, so if it is at all possible, double check the dimensions. To covert to the old imperial measurements, just divide the metric millimetre dimension by 25.4. That will give you decimal inches. Cheers John W. Bottom Plate - Dry Air Cleaner Mod.pdf Top Plate - Dry Air Cleaner Mod.pdf Capstan Winch - Cable Bracket - Floor.pdf Capstan Winch - Cable Bracket.pdf Capstan Winch - Cable retainer Bolt - Clamping collar.pdf Capstan Winch - Cable retainer Bolt - Clutch Actuator.pdf Capstan Winch - Upper drive shaft.pdf Fuel Tank channel without bend radius.pdf Part1- Capstan Drive Sleeve.pdf T24 Crank Support.pdf T24 Towing eye stiffening plate.pdf Universal Joint Dimensions.pdf Water pump bearing.pdf Weasel Capstan Drive flange.pdf Weasel Capstan Shaft - Clutch to Uni.pdf Weasel Rudder cable end.pdf (2).pdf Weasel Seat belt retaining clamp-1.pdf 90565A360_GRADE 8 STEEL HIGH HEX NUT.pdf Flotation Tank Washer.pdf Pipe Nipple - Weasel fuel tank drain.pdf Return Roller shaft.pdf Weasel Front Axle Sheet 1 .pdf Weasel Front Axle Sheet 2 .pdf Weasel Front Axle Sheet 3 .pdf Windscreen frame retainer screw 2.pdf Windscreen frame retainer screw.pdf Wiper motor gasket.pdf Pin - Capstan universal joint to drive flange.pdf Pin Capstan drive shaft sleeve SD900484.pdf Transmission Mount.pdf Weasel Capstan Drive flange.pdf Control Rod Lengths - Page 236.pdf Marker Lamp Riser Conduit.pdf Rudder Pin as Measured.pdf Weasel Idler Drive wheel gasket.pdf Final drive hull drain hole plate.pdf Final drive hull drain hole.pdf
  7. Can anyone tell me if the original sprung seat bases were wedge shaped ie lower at the back of the base?
  8. Back in 2009 Steve and I recovered the other Australian T24 from a rubbish dump near the snowfields. Unfortunately none of the original data plates survived and the Australian Army only catalogued it as a 'Studebaker Lorry ARN13999'. This weasel belongs to Steve so I am only going to post in this topic my involvement in it which was to rebuild the hull. There are many photos and it will take time to upload the full story. This T24 had a similar fate to the T24 I wrote about in another topic. The pictures better tell the story. The first photo shows this T24 as found
  9. Mostly original parts from a 1930s South American contract. Most numbers match. Cradle and can holder are original. Pedestal is perfect, may or may not be original. Socket looks original. Comes with A6 buttstock, bipod, flash hider. Those 3 items are Izzy. BNC connector for electric. Small gas connectors. Coil, valves, board are inside gun. $2100. Jesse.
  10. Greetings - after a couple of requests, I made up t-shirts with a T-24 line drawing on the back. I had a guy do the line drawing and am pretty happy with how it came out, although I might should add the parachute "straps". I am happy to ship anywhere. If the shipping calculator on the website gives a crazy $$ number, send me an email and I will see what we can do. These were ordered a few days ago and are "guaranteed" to be in stock by 7/17. https://www.portrayalpress.com/Portrayal-Press-T-Shirt-p/620-mds-0102.htm Patrick
  11. I have an M29 project for sale to a good home. The hull number is T24-2003 which makes it at the end of the first gen M29's - very similar hulls to the T24. Norwegian mods. The good: Undercarriage appears to have been gone through and all of the bogies and springs etc. appear to be in good condition and in need of only routine maintenance. Missing bogie set in picture will be replaced. Comes with decent examples of most panels other than the engine cover and the rear floor panel. I may be able to supply those two panels in poor condition, but no promises. Complete or nearly complete engine in need of rebuild. Internal condition unknown. Two WW2 era 20" tracks. They are in need of repair and banding and may have breaks, missing road pads and bent grousers. That being said, they could be nice if banded and a few grousers replaced. Final drive appears to be in good condition and turns freely. Original hull tag. The dataplate is a repro and has incorrect information on it so useless by my calculation. The bad: The T90 transmission looks ugly (rusty) but might clean up. Parts are readily available for this transmission. The hull needs extensive work. Hull was skinned on the front and rear panels by a PO and then had those panels removed (rear) and partially removed (front) by another PO. I believe the front is salvageable but will need repairs. I would probably replace the entire rear panel. I do have the removed sheet metal which has the pioneer tool brackets - they look homemade to me. There is a good amount of rot on the floors and hat channels. I would expect to replace these floors and most of the hat channels. The hull has side skirts. I have not spent enough time to know whether this hull should have them (think no, but?) and whether they look original. Adding them certainly makes the job of installing a new floor pretty easy. You could probably do some quick repairs, band the tracks, rebuilt the motor and transmission and go play. Or, replace the floors and do a little work on the front and back and have a sweet example of a 1st gen M29. $4000 OBO
  12. Hello everyone, I sold my weasel and have many parts to sell off as the buyer really wouldn’t need much of it. Might be easier if you have items you want or need to shoot me a text 303 seven fore ate fore 🖐00. Many NOS track parts and suspension. Nos bulbs and spotlight, NOS transmission case and parts. Bearings, carb parts, used carburetor, used T24 engine, NOS wiper motors, seatbelts, used seats and seat backs most with canvas, broken bands 20” tracks on pallets, stretcher brackets, Norwegian ski racks. Also have GPW engines including an early one and tons of parts for the g503. I have destroyed my back and I cannot lift heavy items without help so shipping will take extra time. located 80116
  13. Hi, I'm putting out feelers. I'm looking for a good snow camo/white weasel (I can paint a green one if necessary) What I really would like is a restored snow weasel, with bad tracks, bad engine, etc. I don't know if I have enough time to build one from my hull I have, this seems like a decent solution. Let me know! Dave
  14. Thanks Pat for the reply on posting pictures. I will attempt to share some. I have a picture of the machine the day we made the deal to purchase. My son Derrick is sitting at the controls. The other photo is as it arrived home. Now it is tore down about as far as we are going for now. The object is to get it running and learn how it works. There is a machine 2 and 3 to restore. I figure we have enough parts to mix and match to build an original machine down to the bolts and washers. That is the goal for now, all the best parts on one machine. Fred
  15. We recently disassembled two fairly complete Weasels just for the float tanks. The hulls were pretty far gone, but even there are some good parts if you’ve had doors cut in yours. We have all kinds of parts that I was missing when I restored mine several years ago, and had to search high and low or make them. Let me know what you might need. No tracks, wipers, spotlights, seats of course. I ship slow as I depend on others to do the leg work (just ask DRH).
  16. Here are some of my "old rusty" pictures. Some of my questions are: Data plate, hull tag says "m29C-2109" Were these designated M29C at that serial number? The data plate is all screwed up, looks like the letterkenny guys did it, first 2 numbers are stamped out, and 6188 follows (looks like it could have been 1188 then overstamped? Not sure what is going on with that. To the right of the data plate is the letterkenny overhaul tag, showing aug-1954 overhaul date. The outside was "skinned" about 3 " from top, with metal folded over and under the seats. some of the skin folds around the front of the hull. the tracks are nice, as per john from Australia, they are the Antarctic post war tracks, amphillary? Oil can bracket is mounted in battery compartment, next to the air cleaner. It has a steel fuel tank with an electric fuel pump. The main fuel line comes off the electric pump to the filter, and the fuel sender has a built-in pickup tube plumbed directly to the engine primer on the dash. There is a big round hole (factory) in the right hand radiator cover panel, I think this was an update to give more air circulation. The hull plugs were left in, that did not do anyone any favors. I pulled out the plugs and cleaned out the goo, much better. Are those the correct original hand lever grips or fake? Also has the newer style light switch, with a provision on the front float tank for the headlight and a blackout light, with the original hull headlight bracket still welded in place with no light on it. Also, in the rear center of the hull, there was a bracket that appeared to be factory (I think for the heater?) and it had a crappy bilge pump attached to it. I need to know if bracket is original, and I will toss the bilge. I'm wondering on overhaul if they didn't just use whatever parts were laying around, and built this from many weasels? dave
  17. My weasel adventure started 35 years ago. My dad owned an army surplus store, and was interested in getting a tracked vehicle. The weasel was the smallest track you could get, so that was picked. He located the blue weasel you see in the picture below, that is me in the driver's seat and my brother in back on the weasel the day we bought it. My dad actually bought 2 at the same place, same time, the blue one ended up being ours, the other weasel was traded to a mechanic friend of ours to help restore the blue weasel, as my dad also had a full time police job at the time, and he did not have a garage or time to restore himself. Right after this picture was taken, we tried to load it up on our trailer. The track snapped the second we attempted to load it. The first lesson on weasels was learned. I worked with my dad and the mechanic restoring the weasel, many many months of drilling track rivets, sandblasting lights and hardware, much more, but this was a long time ago..
  18. I am wondering if anyone knows where I can locate the tapered seals that go around the steering band shafts 900677 on the weasel differential also the tapered seals that go around the 4 steering band bolts that are located on the differential housing. Mine just fell apart. I was thinking maybe a rubber o ring would suffice. Any thoughts?? Dan
  19. I am wondering if anyone has riveted new steering band strips on the metal steering bands. Would like to know what type of rivets you used. Dan
  20. Over the years I have picked up a couple of Miniature Weasels. Nice little knick knacks for the display cabinet. The pencil sharpener weasel can be found on fleabay occasionally.
  21. Do these look like the correct seatbelts and wiper motors? I might need to lay them out but they still are bundled from factory for whatever they were made for. Looks like some OD and possibly artic color. Some rubber chickens don’t ask
  22. No connection with the vendor, just posting the link here; https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?f=77&p=1887267#p1887267
  23. Hi Everyone After rebuilding my T84 transmission for my T15 I noticed after a short period of time while the engine and transmission were on the stand a small drip of oil weeping out between the transmission and the clutch bellhousing. I pulled the transmission off and found the shaft where the the lower cluster gear rides leaking oil where it goes through the transmission case. I read online this is a common problem. All types of remedies are advised such as using RTV JB weld etc. It was also mentioned to put a gasket between the transmission and the bellhousing like the Jeeps have. Funny on the weasels (at least on mine) no gasket was between the transmissions and the bell housing. Looking in the parts manual showed no gasket either? I am going to put a bead of RTV around the area where the shaft comes through the housing so when it is installed to the bellhousing it will keep the oil contained. I am only mentioning this so that anyone rebuilding the weasel T84 transmission that this problem could present itself. Some ingenious machinist types have cut "O" ring grooves in the shaft where it goes in the transmission housing to stop the oil from dripping into the hull and making a mess. Glad I found this before the engine was installed. Another thing that may contribute to this problem is I did add a street 90 elbow to the oil fill to increase the amount of oil in the T84. This was recommended and also was a later retrofit to the T84 transmission. I highly recommend this mod as the T84 oil capacity is greatly increased. Anyway hope this tip helps. Have a nice memorial day! Dan
  24. M29

    Spot Welders

    Hi Everyone I am going to be starting restoration on my T15 hull soon (hopefully) and like the concept of a spot welder for welding hat channels etc. Now I understand that certain areas may not be accessible for using a spot welder because of tong reach. I have a Lenco single side machine that works ok for lighter sheet metal but would not trust it for 16 gauge if I remember correctly the T15 hull is 16ga? Anyway been looking at a used Hirane 140 that I can buy pretty cheap. It has both single side capability plus two side pressure clamp capability. It has 9200 Amp max output comes with 24" tongs plus many smaller sizes and shapes. The thought of all those mig plug welds and the associated grinding and cleanup that comes with that type of weld does not excite me.Can anyone clue me in about spot welders amperages need for welding a weasel hull etc. I know others have looked into this but never hear much about it. Dan
  25. Kevin Vogel

    IMG_2377

    Car Show - here in Virginia 4-10_21. The Weasel sure draws a crowd
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