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Found 13 results

  1. Hi! im a new member to this forum, and almost a new owner of a Studebaker Weasel m29c. The one I bought is in quite rough condition tho, only 3 leaf springs ass. and diff are still present. Also most of the bottom has rusted away. But im young, and optimistic, thus, I need pretty all parts that I can find. So send me everything that you can find! I am located in The Netherlands, and I don't really have the contacts to look for parts. So im hoping this will turn something up. of course shipping will be painfull, but still, let me know if you know something! I prefer parts from Europe, but, beggars can't be choosers... Regards, Pips
  2. I am sorting through my T24 suspension and finding lots of subtle differences in components between the T24 suspension with its 15 inch tracks and the various later versions of M29/M29C with different variations of the 20 inch track. There are several different leaf springs used on the T24/M29 series. The T24 has 3 part numbers: an 11 leaf front spring, two 9 leaf middle springs and a 13 leaf rear spring. The later M29 and M29C were shipped with 8 leaf spring packs, although the front and rear have one part number and the center springs have another part number. I don't know what the difference is between these springs. There are a lot of Weasels running around with tracks that don't run well. Lots of reasons for this, but incorrectly placed springs could be another because it ends up causing alignment issues. The other thing to note is that there are lots of changes to the various arms and yokes etc. over the course of production. If you have alignment issues, it may be mix matched suspension components.
  3. Hi, I'm sure that this has been addressed in some form or fashion in the past but I can't seem to locate it. Does anyone have a reference for modern bearing, race and seal numbers for the suspension on the weasels? Ive found the bogie seals with skf 12391. But can't find the bearings or races/cups. Also looking for the same info on the idler and drive bearings. And u joints for the drive shafts for that matter. Any help would be appreciated! Thank you!
  4. I have used this company in the past for bogies on other vehicles. FYI. Cynthia was the contact. Do not know if she is still there. Caster Concepts, Inc. 888.781.3379 16000 W. Michigan Ave., Albion, MI 49224 USA Caster Concepts - Heavy Duty Industrial Caster Manufacturer USA They have done rubber and other poly's
  5. Gents: I am looking for T-24 undercarriage parts, particularly the early bogie yokes. I am also looking for a BC1136AW and related parts. TY!
  6. Hi I am new to this forum and not sure how to search old blogs so I thought that I would just ask a couple of questions. I started working on a t15 and the rubber on some of the road wheels are none existent so my question is if any one else had this same problem? I had made a mold and used liquid rubber 90 shore hardness to put new rubber on the rims but the rubber just came off the rim so I tried tacking roller chain on the rim and recast the rubber and now after some use the rubber is chewed up and coming off, the original wheels are good. If any one had to put rubber on road wheels what did you use or where did you send them to get re done? Also the rubber on the idlers wheels and the drive wheels are either gone or in poor shape so I am wandering how thick the rubber was on them also the track belts are worn out and broken so someone had welded chain on the inside and outside to keep the tracks running so I am interested in replacing the belts. Has anyone any spare parts out there to be had any help or information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance Larry
  7. Is there a special technique to stop the lip of an OEM leather bogey wheel seal rolling in on itself when assembling the bogey wheel? I have had the seals soaking in oil for about two days before trying to install them. I have kneeded the leather to make it more supple. I have placed the seal on a size for size mandrell to try and stretch the leather before fitting So far none of these actions have met with success. I think that I will fit the modern CR seal if I can't find a solution to this problem.
  8. I was cleaning some of the suspension parts for my weasel when I noticed one of the bogie wheel arms wasn't the same as the rest. Anybody seen this type before?
  9. Hi Everyone Can anyone tell me what part # your using for replacement seals in the bogey arm. Also the bearing and race part # Thanks Dan
  10. M29

    Bogey Bolts

    Hi Everyone I have been looking at many of my existing leaf spring yoke bolts that have wear and cause excessive play in my bogey arm assembly. I have been looking a the expensive original bolts on eBay and other sites. I am wondering why all the threaded bolts through the springs yoke etc. It would be nice if some of these if not all could be non threaded and drilled and tapped for a grease zerk. Any info would be appreciated. Dan
  11. When I reconditioned my weasel suspension, the job was made a lot easier by using an 11/16" - 11 NS Thread tap to clean all of the threads. I got mine off ebay.
  12. Rather than lumping my M29C weasel restoration into a single topic, I will post multiple topics to make it easier to view and comment on. I picked up a set of return rollers that already had new rubber on them. I got them from a cache of Spare parts that came out of Antarctica (another story) back in the 90's. First photo show me sorting through just one of the many parts bins. Over the years and spending a lot of time and $$$$ I assembled enough NOS spares to finally refurbish my return rollers. Second Photo. The third and fourth photo shows what can happen to NOS parts when stored for many years. In this case the end was almost corroded away. I have kept this shaft as a spare but fortunately I had another return roller shaft to replace the corroded/damaged shaft. I had noticed that the majority of the ex Antarctic return rollers had been retrofitted with Bronze bushings in lieu of the OEM needle rollers. In view that my weasel will be used in the water and the modification had well and truly proved itself in Antarctica, I machined and fitted new bronze bushings to my return rollers. I was able to fit a longer bushing to one side of the roller to better carry the load. After cleaning the grease nipple thread followed by bead blasting and etch priming, I was able to put together the return roller assembly ready for a final coat of paint. A friend of mine owns a CNC paper cutting machine that came in handy to cut new gaskets. See PDF Cheers JW Return roller gasket.pdf
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