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  1. Good Evening, I recently purchased a M29C and finally got it running. Thanks to the helpful folks on this fourm! Runs great! Greased everything on the drive train, backed it off the trailer and started to test drive it and while backing up I bushed the left track partially off. I kinda had a feeling something was going to break and I was planning on either pulling these tracks off and going through them or rebuilding the spare set that it came with and swapping them out. Was hoping other people on here would have some insight on that... I'm new to the weasel world and have been doing some research, not a whole lot but some. Looking around it seems that the rubber bands for the tracks is hard to come by. I was wondering what people have done to repair/improve the tracks over the years. The part that broke was a chain link that somebody else installed I'm guessing years ago, and if possible I'd like to install something better, I'm sure this worked great if it didn't set and got frequent lube. However, it sat and froze up. I know that the OG had cables that ran along them and that seems like an okay idea but any insight on best way to go about this would be great. A little insight on my intentions (if it help). I was planning on getting the rig running, going through the tracks and boggie wheels and such, I'm not looking to restore the Weasel this winter but plan to later down the road. I mainly and trying to get it going to be able to move my cabin materials across a lake this winter and was to make sure that I won't have any issues with the tracks mainly. I'll continue to do research and studying on them but was mainly wondering what people have done in the past to solve the issue of replacing the hard-to-find rubber bands. Thanks in advance! Kennedy
  2. I thought that I would start a bog/story on my Weasel restoration. I sold an Amphibious Jeep back in the Mid 1990's and I decided to purchase another unusual vehicle that operates in two mediums. I came across a 'Weasel' and decided there and then that this was the vehicle for me. I was going to import a project weasel from the US of A but before proceeding I had heard of a weasel that was local to where I was living at the time. I contacted the owner and asked if I could have a look at the weasel to give me some idea what I was getting myself into. After looking at this weasel I decided to offer to purchase it from the owner. I came up with the figure of $6500AUD ($2000 for the weasel and $4500 that it would have cost at the time to ship a weasel out from the USA to Australia). The offer was accepted and on the 11/11/98 I took delivery of my new project. I have been restoring this weasel off and on ever since. The colour scheme you see on this weasel was made up by the owner. This weasel was purchased from Consolidated Industries and shipped to Australia in the early 50's. It was to be used on a large Sheep Ranch as a special vehicle for the owner to inspect his sheep during wet weather, however the weasel saw little use out in the far west due to drought. If you look closely at the hull, the owner had the hull raised 100mm/4"inches above the tracks so that mud would not get caught up between the sponson and the track. The damage done by this modification cost me a lot of time and effort to repair/restore.
  3. Hi! I have this track, it is belted, with reasonably heavy duty grousers . Can I have input on what they are and how they last? Anyone know if they had rubber road pads? (I dont really see any) Thanks! Dave
  4. Any M29 complete track available in any condition? One or? No gold plating required.
  5. Guys, I have a new set of LAR track, these have not been used. They have been stored properly on edge in a container and are on two pallets ready to ship. I have two sets of these and don't need two sets. Price is $11K New LAR track is $14K if you have any detailed questions give me a call at 208 845 0823 This is a google voice number that patches through to my cellphone. If you don't get me directly leave a message and your phone number. Thanks, Rob
  6. Byron’s TM1990 Rubber Track Manual for Weasel M29 & M29C This manual explains how To fit the rubber track kit ready to accept the rubber tracks. The Rubber tracks are a modern substitute to replace the original tracks. The original tracks weakness are the bands that hold them together. The steel bands are encased in a rubber mould which over time crack and allows water to corrode the steel bands, eventually causing them to break. To use The rubber tracks, You need to fit the rubber track kit. When the kit is fitted you can continue to follow TM9-772 to fit the tracks in the same way as the originals tracks. I can confirm the track tensioning tools do still work in the same way with no problems. If you aren’t going through a full restoration, whilst fitting the kit, this is the best time to change any worn bearings or damaged seals. Refer to the parts manual for the bearing numbers and seal numbers. Most of these part numbers can be crossed reference to modern seals and bearings. “Good Luck”. In the rubber track kit you have:- 4 Large round spacers:- The spacers go each side of the hubs at the front return rollers so the front roller wheels space apart to accept the wider track centre guides. See figure 1 & 2. You will need to remove the hub from the axel to enable you to remove inner wheel to then slip one spacer onto the hub before putting the inner wheel back on. You can now refit the hub to the axel. NOTE - You will need to purchase 16x 5,1/2” x 3/8 UNF bolts as the originals are not long enough to bolt it all together. These are not supplied in the kit. NOTE - Make sure you Grease the front hubs thoroughly before finally fixing everything together as one of the spacers completely covers the hub grease nipples (This is a slight design fault) See figure 3. NOTE - Because the idler wheel closest to the hull has been spaced apart with the spacer, this becomes very close to the front carrier arm stub axle nuts, these nuts will catch the wheel if they are not locked off in a good position. These nuts can only be fitted when the wheel is loose on the hub to give you more nut turning space. See figure 4 and 5. 32 Smaller spacers and 16 longer shafts:- These smaller spacers go either side of the track suspension bogey hubs to space the small idler bogies further apart. See figure 6. The long shafts replace the original shorter ones to allow the extra length for the spacers. These spacers are to allow the wider track guides to run through the wheels. See Figure 7 & 8 NOTE - You will need to keep your original castle nuts and wooruff keys for your new shafts. NOTE - The oil seal each side in the support assembly now runs on the new spacers so keep these shiny and paint free to seal correctly. Originally these seals run on the smooth face inside of the wheels. See figure 7 8 x Cone shaped washers :- See figure 9 & 10. These are the hardest part of the kit to fit and require the track guid wheels to be removed from the shaft. You will need to remove all bearings and grease. The wheels will then need to be cut and re welded. The wheel part with the rubber needs to be cut away from the bearing hub part. These cones are then welded to the inside of the wheel part and to the outside face of the bearing hub part to widen the gap for the track centre guides to run through. See figure 11, 12 & 13. This can only be done on a lathe to ensure they run true again. These welds need to be neat and precise. I did not do these myself, I got a machinist to do this for me. Once these have been modified you can now refit bearings, pack with grease and fix back onto the shafts. NOTE - These modified rollers are available as reproduction parts rather than cutting the originals. This may be the most sensible option rather than cutting ww2 parts. I believe these come with one of the different kits as I have seen them on another weasel. I had no choice as our kit did not come with these, we were just supplied the cone washers for DIY. 2 rear drive sprocket :- To fit these you will need to remove the rear dive hub form the axel, then remove the drive sprockets wheels from the hub. Then re fit the bare hubs back onto the axel. See figure 14. When the bare hubs are fitted back onto the axel just simply bolt the new drive sprockets supplied in the kit to the out side face of the rear hubs. See figure 15. NOTE - You will need to buy 16x 2,1/4” long 3/8 UNF bolts as the originals are too short. Extra notes and reminders:- The rubber tracks are run considerably tighter than the originals, particularly because of how they are made and particularly to ensure the shorter track centre guides don’t let you run a track off unlike the original taller centre track guides. Because of this, It is worth considering fitting a solid 1,3/8” bar inside the front idler stub axels to help prevent these bending. See figure 16. By pushing a solid bar through as a tolerance fit will also confirm that you do not have a bent stub axel as the bar will simply not go though. If you have a bent stub axel, the weasel will continuously steer to one side. The inside of the tube may need a slight hone to clean ready to accept the solid bar. Like wise the bar may need a slight skim on a lathe to give you the correct tolerance fit. Remember to grease the front hub well before you put the spacers over the grease nipples Remember to tighten the nuts for the carrier arms before tightening the wheels to the hubs. I have now personally driven 50 miles with the rubber track kit and I have not had any concerns. We have previously owned another weasel, which come with rubber tracks fitted when we bought it and we had no issues with these. I have been in communication with a few guys that have run these tracks for years and I have mostly received positive reviews and it has kept their weasels running. WARNING - Some Weasel owners do not like the look of these tracks as they do not look original, which we can not deny. Expect to take some friendly banter but be confident your tracks will outlast the originals. PLEASE NOTE - I have tried to make this manual helpful for future people like myself who only has pictures and friends help fit these tracks. If you believe I have made an error with a description or are not happy with how I have described something please PM me so I can correct rather than fill the comments box with my mistakes.
  7. Hi Guys, im Byron. I was on the old weasel forum and I cant seem to find it. Has it gone? I restored a weasel roughly 6 years ago and kept a full diary of what I was up to. I also made a lot of hard ware for the weasels that a lot of guys liked bought. I have a new weasel project and would like to post some pictures. Out of all the ww2 vehicles I have restored, this is by far the most complete. Would be great to chat to you guys. Byron, England, Devon
  8. Hi, I'm sure that this has been addressed in some form or fashion in the past but I can't seem to locate it. Does anyone have a reference for modern bearing, race and seal numbers for the suspension on the weasels? Ive found the bogie seals with skf 12391. But can't find the bearings or races/cups. Also looking for the same info on the idler and drive bearings. And u joints for the drive shafts for that matter. Any help would be appreciated! Thank you!
  9. So I am starting a NEW post to see if anyone can answer the questions below? If you have rebuilt tracks or have personal experience, please chime in! I have all of the sources to do a build but before I pull the trigger I want to verify info. There will be a cost savings to do all inner and outer belts the same width if that is important. Continuous bands pre cut and drilled. So in theory just bolt on the grousers and other parts and install and play. (Sounds too simple) Measurements, photos and drawings are helpful! How many grousers on the left and right of M29 Are they all the same number? How many grousers on the left and right of T15 What is the proper thickness of the belting? What have others used with success? Too thick and power and steering problems and damage. Too thin and ???? Width of belt? Full coverage? 7 inch? 2 inch? (I am unfortunately am a 2 inch guy) Grade 8 bolts? T Nuts? Rivets? Hot glue gun? What size has been successful? Rubber track pad options? Belting? Cast? Old tennis shoes? Anyone have one NOS pad? Supplier options? Who have you used? Continuous bands? Conveyer? Hardware? Tooling? Photos of the process if you already did some, or in process, or? If we start with information, I'm sure Patrick could put some great drawings and directions together in his free time? It's not like he is really doing anything anyways. 🙂
  10. I have used this company in the past for bogies on other vehicles. FYI. Cynthia was the contact. Do not know if she is still there. Caster Concepts, Inc. 888.781.3379 16000 W. Michigan Ave., Albion, MI 49224 USA Caster Concepts - Heavy Duty Industrial Caster Manufacturer USA They have done rubber and other poly's
  11. Hi all, I'm interested in getting a group of us together who want to reproduce original and affordable Weasel tracks instead of the custom jobs you see (using cables, chains, conveyor belting, etc.). Those of us that own half-tracks went through a similar problem and eventually solved it - half-track tracks are now reasonably priced and available, and I hope to start something like that for the Weasel. I bought my M29C more than 20 years ago and was gun-ho about getting it going, but when thinking about tracks doused that fire. I have the belting to go that way, but I want the tracks to look original and I assume I'm not alone in this. Jeff Jensen
  12. Good evening, I recently replaced the rubber bands on my spare set of tracks and in the process of reinstalling the track on the rig. I was able to get the old track off mainly because it was 3/4 of the way broke already. I have the two brackets off the side of the haul and the front pulley loosened up. I can’t get the new track on, it appears that leaf springs have to be compressed in order to slide the track past the boggie wheels. I don’t see how that’s possible to do with a bottle jack because the track would get in the way. Anybody have any suggestions? Iv thought about splitting the track again and then using a few straps to suck the track back together and bolt it back one the track is on. thanks!
  13. I am about finished with my hull repairs and starting to gear up to do the mechanicals. I ended up finding a set of nice 15" T24 tracks. They are in good shape - with a roller chain added for stability. I am not sure what I am going to do about the bands yet, but I want to start fixing the grousers. I have two issues in some grouser plates: bends and then torn off road pads. 1. I am guessing the grouser plates are hardened? I have probably 6 to 10 that are bent. My plan is to heat them and bend them back. Any experience out there? 2. Where the road pads are torn, my current plan is to weld a 1/4 or 5/16 tapped plate in the "hole" - then screw in a delrin road pad. I am open to thoughts or suggestions. Thanks, Patrick
  14. Good evening, I'm planning out the job of repairing my tracks using rock conveyor. I have type 3 tracks. So far I have a large supply of heavy duty 1/2" thick belting which I intend to use for my outer bands. What thickness should be used for the inner bands? Will the 1/2" work? Any advice from someone with experience in this would be greatly appreciated. If a thicker belt is needed, does anyone have a good source? I'm located in PA so a source on the East coast is preferred.
  15. Hi! im a new member to this forum, and almost a new owner of a Studebaker Weasel m29c. The one I bought is in quite rough condition tho, only 3 leaf springs ass. and diff are still present. Also most of the bottom has rusted away. But im young, and optimistic, thus, I need pretty all parts that I can find. So send me everything that you can find! I am located in The Netherlands, and I don't really have the contacts to look for parts. So im hoping this will turn something up. of course shipping will be painfull, but still, let me know if you know something! I prefer parts from Europe, but, beggars can't be choosers... Regards, Pips
  16. Just going through some of my old archived weasel photos and came across these photos showing M114 tracks being retrofitted to a Weasel. The photos date back to 2001. You will see in the photos a reversed control weasel. I would hope that the owners of these weasels do visit this forum and could tell us more about their modifications.
  17. hello everyone. I'm farily new to the weasel world and haven't actually taken possession of my weasel yet. But after doing alot of research on here and other places I've come to the same conclusion as many of you have.....that there really aren't options for how to handle track repairs/restoration. I have a manufacturer here in the US that I have worked on other projects with and they make urethane molds for conveyors. They are in agreement with me that the track bands are certainly a doable product. Now my question here is, how large or a market is this? I understand that the weasel world isn't all that large, but are we talking about 20 people or 200 people that would need bands for tracks? My goal here is make an authentic looking product that a person can then use to restore their tracks. I would like to sell this as a kit with all the bands for the tracks and replacement pads that would be slightly different than oem on the track pads. My other goal is to come in a price below what the European makers are offering and without all the international shipping issues. I would like to have as much feedback as possible on this. Thank you, Corey
  18. One of my weasels has tracks with 55 grousers and one has tracks with 56. What is correct? Thanks!
  19. Hi I am new to this forum and not sure how to search old blogs so I thought that I would just ask a couple of questions. I started working on a t15 and the rubber on some of the road wheels are none existent so my question is if any one else had this same problem? I had made a mold and used liquid rubber 90 shore hardness to put new rubber on the rims but the rubber just came off the rim so I tried tacking roller chain on the rim and recast the rubber and now after some use the rubber is chewed up and coming off, the original wheels are good. If any one had to put rubber on road wheels what did you use or where did you send them to get re done? Also the rubber on the idlers wheels and the drive wheels are either gone or in poor shape so I am wandering how thick the rubber was on them also the track belts are worn out and broken so someone had welded chain on the inside and outside to keep the tracks running so I am interested in replacing the belts. Has anyone any spare parts out there to be had any help or information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance Larry
  20. I found these saved photos in my photo archive so I thought that I would post them here as a reference for others. I don't know much about the history of these road pads other than what you see in the photos.
  21. Guys, Here’s a weasel track project from the T-15 ” skunkworks” you all might find interesting: This project has been in works for some time and is finally getting closer to fruition. Basically, the scope of this project is to remake OEM style bands for the T15 weasel. (T-15 tanium) 😉 (though a similar process could be used for the T-24/M29 series.) There are currently no plans to build those. The concept is to do the bands in a modular form, instead of a continuous band. The modular design is very similar to that of the M114/M116. That way if you break a band, you just replace the band/section and not the whole track. You still need a serviceable set of grousers to make this work. The band wires are fully vulcanized and encapsulated in rubber similar to the weasel. The wires terminate in steel blocks that are then bolted to the ½ way point on a grouser. Several sections of band make up a band assembly. Because the number of grousers on a T-15 is a prime number there will be one odd, band with one less grouser attachment. Bands, h plates and end terminals are vulcanized and encapsulated in rubber. Terminal blocks of different design have been tested in a tensile tester to 8,000 lbs pull before failure. The following photos should give some clarity to the design. Here are some screen shots....most of this is the early work that has been revised already....many revisions... final design before molding is not show. We hope to be cutting the molds soon. This is project is being done for Mike Howard. Contact him if you are interested. This particular band could also be used on the M7 snow tractor with some modification to the mold, but plans for that have not been solidified. Enjoy... tb.TIF
  22. In the past I had feedback stating that the unmodified LAR track sprocket was responsible for 'shaving' metal from the LAR track guides. @Rob Wrecommended that I modify the LAR sprockets to prevent this problem. Before starting, frustratingly I had to further bore the sprockets as they initially would not fit onto my hubs.
  23. I was outbid on Fleabay years ago for a set of these return roller plates pictured below. I have not seen these plates come up again for sale. Was this a modification that was planned but not implemented due to the War ending? Can anyone share any info on this mod?
  24. In a couple of months I have an appointment at a track manufacterer who is willing to help search for a sollution for the rubber pads. In the mean time anyone who has an Idea/sollution for this problem feel free to comment below.
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