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Found 10 results

  1. My M29c was heavily modified by someone and I'm trying to get it back to being at least visually correct. I have to install a new transmission mount and my question is this: Is the driveshaft coaxial with the engines crankshaft and of course, the transmission shaft? Or is the engine sitting dead flat and the driveshaft dips down as it goes to the differential? I have noticed that the carburetor is tilted from the plane of the engine, suggesting that the engine/tranny is tilted from horizontal, likely to make the driveshaft not have to bend. Idaho Jim
  2. Hi all, I joined the forum a year ago with the intention of buying a Weasel and sure enough one came up in March this year, a 1945 M29C with all the floater gear removed. I’m in the UK and the Weasel was in Norway. I’ve bought vehicles in the US and France in the past but buying during a pandemic was a learning curve and the deal was done with only photos, videos and phone calls. Shipping was the hardest part but back in June I travelled to Immingham docks to pick the Weasel up and bring it home. I was so relieved to find it was even better than described, very original (I think) and not messed about. The seller had said it needed new tracks and after re-commissioning (it’s been in storage for 20+ years) I finally drove it last weekend. The good news is that it moves ok in a straight line but any attempt at turning either way made the left track jump the sprocket teeth. Observations and thoughts are as follows, any advice would be greatly appreciated. The teeth on the left sprockets are very worn. I’m told that building them up with weld isn’t possible as they’re hardened. I’ve found new sets online from Accu-rite Machine in California and have read a couple of good reports on them on this forum. Anyone had any experience of them either good or bad? The tracks themselves seem in reasonable condition apart from one cracked groused. They have 55 grousers and have been rebuilt at some time with Norwegian inner bands and this bracket and link arrangement replacing the outer bands The tracks lack tension and the adjustment stops are fully at the bottom of their travel so there’s no adjustment left. The tensioning spring looks to have some arching in it but does anyone have the correct spec and would re-arching help get more adjustment? The rubber on the idler wheels, drive wheels and support wheels is damaged in places and varies in thickness between 1/16” and an 1/8”. The worst one is shown below, the rubber is level with the metal rim. Does anyone know the correct thickness and am I right in thinking having the correct thickness rubber on would gain me a bit more tension in the tracks? Three of the bogie wheels on the right side are odd with a much bigger offset than the others. Are they post war manufacture or off something else? TIA Chris
  3. Hello, I just signed up to the forum. I am looking for some good sprockets (NOS or after market). My weasel runs well on roads, pavement or gravel, but jumps the sprockets in the snow.I feel that the drag on the tracks from the snow along with bad sprockets is the problem. Others may have a better idea so advise is truly welcomed. The weasel has been repowered with a chevy 6 and a powerglide. I was not putting much power to the weasel in the snow and within 15 feet it jumped the track by half a teeth. So now the teeth are pushing on the track guide. The tracts are loose. See picture. Running on driveway:
  4. Hi! im a new member to this forum, and almost a new owner of a Studebaker Weasel m29c. The one I bought is in quite rough condition tho, only 3 leaf springs ass. and diff are still present. Also most of the bottom has rusted away. But im young, and optimistic, thus, I need pretty all parts that I can find. So send me everything that you can find! I am located in The Netherlands, and I don't really have the contacts to look for parts. So im hoping this will turn something up. of course shipping will be painfull, but still, let me know if you know something! I prefer parts from Europe, but, beggars can't be choosers... Regards, Pips
  5. Someone apparently reversed the differential so it would go backwards. Some people's kids....... I need to flip the ring gear back to the original configuration. I can't figure out how to get to all the bolts that hold the differential in. 4 are virtually impossible to get to. Can the diff be opened up in place? I know I'll have to pull the axle halves out to remove the ring gear if I work on it in place. That may be easier than wrestling it out and back in. I suspect the previous owner split the diff in place, as only the input side is painted blue. (Blue??)
  6. Hi, I'm sure that this has been addressed in some form or fashion in the past but I can't seem to locate it. Does anyone have a reference for modern bearing, race and seal numbers for the suspension on the weasels? Ive found the bogie seals with skf 12391. But can't find the bearings or races/cups. Also looking for the same info on the idler and drive bearings. And u joints for the drive shafts for that matter. Any help would be appreciated! Thank you!
  7. Hello! I am new to the forum. @OZM29C I'm impressed with your work - it looks great! I have a smaller scale project where I am in process of rebuilding just the weasel final drive. Everything looks pretty good, with exception of the bevel ring gear. The corners of the outside corners of the teeth have been damaged and a bit of metal shavings are in the oil. It appears that the pinion end play is off. I Have found a NOS replacement pinion and ring gear that should fit, though not excited about the prospects of replacing it after reviewing the tech manual. The bearing surfaces of the teeth on the bevel gear look fine, as do the teeth of the pinion gear, so I was hoping rather to clean everything up and shim/tighten up the pinion gear toward the front to correct the contact with the corners bevel ring gear and put back together. Anyone come across anything similar or have advice? Many thanks! Bryan
  8. I resently removed the motor from my weasel and discovered that there is a switch by the output shaft. The wires were cut and not anywhere to be found i was wandering if the switch could be a neutral safety switch. Larry
  9. When reconditioning your rear hub assembly, you will need these. First off the outer hub. The most popular seal to use is the Caterpillar seal but there is also an alternative is a National oil seal 365008 . Please be aware that the width of this seal is only 6.35mm (1/4" inch). https://autoplicity.com/2379409-national-oil-seal Federal Mogul National Oil Seals - Hub Seal Alternative.docx
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