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M29C 10629 get it moving


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Thanks Pat for the reply on posting pictures. I will attempt to share some. I have a picture of the machine the day we made the deal to purchase. My son Derrick is sitting at the controls. The other photo is as it arrived home. Now it is tore down about as far as we are going for now. The object is to get it running and learn how it works. There is a machine 2 and 3 to restore. I figure we have enough parts to mix and match to build an original machine down to the bolts and washers. That is the goal for now, all the best parts on one machine. 

Fred879375F4-5ED1-40E9-83D9-C36E5E971585.thumb.jpeg.5a505d3efbd7cfad54e14083fb6a27b4.jpeg90B23301-C9C5-46ED-B290-9CB534A58857.thumb.jpeg.e87fe521353923c5af7086cc2f237711.jpeg

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  • 1 month later...

Hi all,  It’s been busy around here but we are back at it. Sorry to disappoint OZ but for now the scrap steel stays part of this machine. It seems it’s past life was mountain search and rescue and for now we intend to keep it that way. It will eventually be done but later. Where we will drive there are more trees than road and it shows that this one bounced off a few to many trees already. Our intention is to learn on this one and do a proper job on the next. It’s been a real treat to work on this machine so far and I so look forward to when I don’t need to push it on dollies. 
   Following are some pictures of the inside as we took ownership. 

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On 7/13/2020 at 8:15 PM, F-D Zernia said:

I have a few pictures of under the floor panels. The bottom had animal nests from the former occupants. Under the engine and trans mostly. I needed to scrape with dull wood chisels. Everything seems to be there so they were good tenants.

 

 

 

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A while back we built a tool to straighten the bottom of the hull between the tracks. This machine was extremely abused on the bottom. It worked so good that I broke a few solid spot welds.    I used some bar stock left over from a project years ago and 1/2” threaded rod couplings.  The rods on the outside support the brace, push the outside edge straight and the inside rods push the dent. I also used a 6” square piece of steel plate in the middle to transition the dent to flat. 
 

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I’m looking for a little insight on the final drive housing. I had the unit sand blasted and primed. I was made aware of a crack in the web behind the right flange. There is a line around the entire tube from what seems like part of the pattern to make the sand mold.    My question is was there a problem or weakness at this point. My M29C is a later model with a brace part 7016578 to support the outer axle tube. It looks to me like a crack that always existed from the day it was cast. I am soaking the inside with diesel fuel now to see if it seeps through. So far all is dry. There are similar marks on nearly every rib on the housing without a crack. 
    I’m not opposed to welding the rib but this process requires very much preheat and post heat to be successful. And could create a serious crack somewhere else if we get careless. It will most likely cause enough distortion to the machined surfaces to create problems making gaskets and seals proper. I could braze in stead that eliminates the excess heat problems or leave it be. There was a build up of oil around the flanges but I always thought it was the felt seal inside the housing where the axle tube is pressed in. 
    So is this a common knowledge weakness because in 1945 there was a design change and the brace was added.  Thank You for any and all input.     Fred

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  • 2 weeks later...

I did stop drill the crack on the final drive housing by the axle tube companion flange. I will try this and keep an eye on it after we begin to drive the machine. It will get a work out as I intend to drive this for recreation and put as many miles on as we can. B458977B-04F3-4BA7-BD9C-E07FFA15DF4A.thumb.png.63a4402669e9026a4c4c25926e4d161f.png

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Another recent project was to fabricate a new shift lever support bracket. The original brake and shift assembly was too nice for how we will use this machine. I had a spare that was in rough shape and spent time on it. The brake levers were split from water freezing in the tubes and I split steel gas pipe and used them as sleeves to weld over the weak spots. Copper pipe fittings for 2 missing bushings in the housing. 
I noticed most of the steel shafts for the pedals, shifters and some brake shafts had some degree of wear. Some I welded the groves and filed to fit the hole in the bracket. This shift assembly had no bracket so I made one that will be field serviceable and added grease fittings as well. The hat channel is not very strong at that point so I will bolt this to the floor. The picture shows how I cut a door in the top of the had channel because the nut spun. This Weasel was modified with steel plate under the floor I think to protect from a worn track rubbing the skin. This steel plate seems to be very solid and should support my bracket and then some. 
    We have not given up on a restoration but that will be the next hull. For now I’m trying to figure out how these work and have some fun driving as soon as possible. 

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Great work, how do you plan to use your weasel if you didn’t want to put the nice leavers in if you don’t mind me asking?

will this weasel be used for a job or work?

cheers, Byron

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Happy New Year Byron,

We live across the road from a lake and in winter it freezes over for a few Months and I will have access to freely drive as much as we like. That should be great fun. Ice fishing is popular here too. 
In the spring and fall we also have access to some private property with fire lane roads to drive on. Just to explore. My son calls this one the beater with a heater. 
After we figure out the mechanicals it will be time to do hull repairs on the second Weasel. We’re sticking to the 10 year plan to eventually have 2 real nice machines. 
Thank you for the questions. I enjoy the forum. It is a wealth of knowledge. The sharing of information is so helpful and encouraging. 

cheers 
Fred

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C89E1C8C-3FAA-4AE0-9A5B-75565E374061.thumb.jpeg.8d41aa79f03a899baaa904f98c9f3a86.jpegE7045C35-7C56-4212-9D9D-5669DBD338A3.thumb.jpeg.55d53eab215499a7216bfffa63ea374e.jpegI am getting the final drive ready to install in the hull. Today I made gaskets from paper bulk material. I’d like to share how we were taught back in our school days shop class. This is fast and accurate.  I apologize the pictures didn’t load in the order I wanted. The large piece of tin is the cover we made for sand blasting. This made a good pattern for the outside of the gasket. It’s not necessary though since the outside can be cut in the same fashion. Hopefully this can be helpful to someone. It took about 2 hours to make this gasket as well as the two flanges for the axle tubes. No measuring is needed and the holes all line up. Before installing I will brush some edges with fine sand paper for good measure.     Fred
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Happy New year to you also Fred!

wow, what an amazing way to use your machines! It sounds like you have Weasel heaven! Your going to get the best use out of these! We have some wilderness a few miles away from home, but not on our door step. 

Enjoying seeing the progress 

cheers, Byron

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  • 2 months later...

I have been mostly in fitting and cleaning parts lately and stumbled across something useful. 
For a penetrating oil product I have filled two oil cans: one diesel or fuel oil and the other SAE 30 oil. First I use drops of fuel oil on the joint or in the oil cup. Get the part to move just a little. Then a few drops of SAE 30 oil. When the part moves a little repeat the process. So far this has freed the; transmission and steering controls, steering cross shaft, wind screen hinge and brackets, the joint to separate the halves of the wind screen and more. No heat used at all. Usually it works like new in 20 to 30 minutes. I have also used it on nuts and bolts. So far it has given better results than store bought products. 
   Funny thing a friend gave me a copy of an old publication with a similar formula. 
Practical Help for Farm and Home

1 part engine oil (SAE 20)        
10 part water-white kerosene    
can add 1 part rancid lard

applied to machinery parts 24-48 hours before taken apart  

I have mostly used this on moving, turning parts with success. No heat and less hammering  

 

 

 

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