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Bogey Wheel Restoration.


D.R.H.
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Thanks for sharing the pictures Dave.

The finished product looks outstanding.  I am very interested in the white rubber bogeys.  I have a decent collection of WW2 pictures of white camo Weasels and need to go back and study them more carefully.  I never noticed if the bogeys were white or black.  What do you know about the use of white bogeys?

Thanks, Patrick

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Thanks Patrick. I received a bunch of parts when I purchased my 1st. two Weasels back in 2004, 164 of the were Bogey Wheels. 34 of them were painted white and the rubber had been pigmented white too. I think the date code on them was close to the early 50's. That is all I know.

Edited by D.R.H.
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Wow. Amazing work...  This is needed.for a lot of top rollers and early idler wheels

 

 

Patrick.  All rubber on original machines where black.  Some do have over spray. But that's it.

 

The true difference in boogie wheels.

Is as follows.   

1943.  BF Goodrich is placed on the inside of the wheel.   Not visible from the outside at all.

1944. BF Goodrich is now on facing the outside and a red circle is used

1945 still on the outside now using a red rounded rectangle.

Some 45 examples can be found with red circle 

 

Post war monarch makes boogie wheels

Edited by James Di Giovanni
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  • 1 year later...
On 2/2/2020 at 10:13 AM, James Di Giovanni said:

Wow. Amazing work...  This is needed.for a lot of top rollers and early idler wheels

 

 

Patrick.  All rubber on original machines where black.  Some do have over spray. But that's it.

 

The true difference in boogie wheels.

Is as follows.   

1943.  BF Goodrich is placed on the inside of the wheel.   Not visible from the outside at all.

1944. BF Goodrich is now on facing the outside and a red circle is used

1945 still on the outside now using a red rounded rectangle.

Some 45 examples can be found with red circle 

 

Post war monarch makes boogie wheels

Ok, What is the red circle for? 

Edited by Will Dodge
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  • 4 weeks later...
On 2/7/2020 at 9:17 PM, D.R.H. said:

Thanks James. I have just begun to get into the meat and potatoes of Weasel undercarriage. I will be casting up the idler wheel halves and return rollers with fresh rubber in the near future. I have done them before back in 2005 without any problems, and with the new information I learned from experimenting with the Bogey's, I should net better results than before.

What are you charging to recondition a bogey?/ are you?  I was already thinking about going this route with mine.  making poly molds and recasting the bogeys, but it would save me one heck of an education on getting that compound right (I have only ever done this to resin cast) if it meant writing a check that was cheaper then buying them nos off ebay at 75 a pair.

 

Thanks!

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Tom Howell had some poly bogeys made for his T15 he has some pictures on this site . How many do you need? I asked Dave (DRH) how much it would cost out of curiosity in hopes he would give some insight here on the site to those who need them made. At the cost of say 40.00 per wheel it seems if a small amount needed I would buy NOS if you need lots of them then having them made may be a cheaper route. Like anything weasel Ka Ching Ka Ching $$$$

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2 hours ago, M29 said:

Tom Howell had some poly bogeys made for his T15 he has some pictures on this site . How many do you need? I asked Dave (DRH) how much it would cost out of curiosity in hopes he would give some insight here on the site to those who need them made. At the cost of say 40.00 per wheel it seems if a small amount needed I would buy NOS if you need lots of them then having them made may be a cheaper route. Like anything weasel Ka Ching Ka Ching $$$$

haha I hear ya.  I am thinking I will need quite a few made.  I may try it for myself and see where I land.  May be a fun project for me and my students.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey Dave read the post I was responding to.

Thanks James. I have just begun to get into the meat and potatoes of Weasel undercarriage. I will be casting up the idler wheel halves and return rollers with fresh rubber in the near future. I have done them before back in 2005 without any problems, and with the new information I learned from experimenting with the Bogey's, I should net better results than before.

What are you charging to recondition a bogey?/ are you?  I was already thinking about going this route with mine.  making poly molds and recasting the bogeys, but it would save me one heck of an education on getting that compound right (I have only ever done this to resin cast) if it meant writing a check that was cheaper then buying them nos off ebay at 75 a pair.

 

the cost per wheel of 40.00 was for a set (2) off ebay! You can buy 2 for 75+ shipping look for yourself. I was not estimating your labor.

Edited by M29
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On 4/25/2021 at 9:01 PM, D.R.H. said:

Dan, You asked a lot of questions about my track rebuild after I posted a few pictures back in Feb. 2020, questions that led NOWHERE. I posted pictures of my Repro'ed Bogie Wheels to simply share what I was doing AND you started asking more questions, especially about how much I would charge to others. 

My suggestion to all of you lurkers is to get out from behind your keyboards and put some tools in your hands, put your brains in gear and figure something out for yourselves AND stop relying on other Craftsmen who are obviously more skilled. The biggest grip I have is if you can't do the work, don't balk at the asking price a Skilled Craftsman who DID FIGURE IT OUT is asking!!! I was told a long time ago, "If you have to ask how much something is, you probably can't afford to buy it". 

 

MY APOLOGIES PATRICK FOR MY RANT. I HAVE JUST COME INTO FULL UNDERSTANDING WHY CERTAIN PEOPLE WILL MAKE A "RUN" OF CERTAIN REPRO PARTS AND THEN FALL OFF INTO OBLIVION. 

Haha no problem sir.  I welcome any rant.  Provides me some context with what I am working on.  I've been involved in a lot of things over the years.  Pretty much every mechanical collector hobby you can get into that's vehicle and ground based EXCEPT military.  I learned long ago it pays to listen to the guys who have been there and done that, because they are rare.  These things sound like a fun fabrication project with my students.  That is.... if I ever get my in person students back this year.  Jeeeeepers.  I'm still a few weeks out, button up some other projects that needed to be done before I can start on the 2 weasels I picked up.  Looking forward to your feedback when I do get at them in mid May!  Cheers!

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Amphibious Detecting, I appreciate your ability to look at a topic and be able to laugh. However, the rant WAS NOT directed at you, it was for M29 (Dan). This is now the third time he has put his mind-set on display and I have a pretty good idea where he is coming from. Weasels are quite expensive to restore to any respectable level and I get it, folks want to spend as little as possible on some out dated, 78 year old rusty piece of junk. THIS is exactly why I do my best to think outside of the box and repair/restore what I can, myself. I recently purchased a "Hat Channel" set from a guy here on this forum. He quoted his price, I sent him the check. No balking, no asking for a cheaper price or spare channels. HE PUT IN THE WORK to figure out what needed to be done, then did it. He deserved to be paid what he was asking.

I will repeat, "I, on the other hand was just showing a process that I had figured out and wanted to share it on the forum. My intent was NOT to drag interested parties into turning their wallets inside out. I did it for me. Anyway, this horse has been kicked enough. Dave.  

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Hey Dave

You are full of it....  what is your purpose of posting what you do if you don't want any questions asked? I went back and looked at the posts you referred to where I asked a bunch of questions about your track work.  Man what are you talking about??? I asked a couple questions?? So what! You don't have to answer. I have been belting weasel tracks from at least 1979 so you have no patent on the idea. Many others have done this as well so don't attack me for a couple questions asked about your track work, along with the questions I have also complimented you as well. Your post denigrating me for some past questions makes you come off as arrogant and condescending with your so called "mind set" rant and "Lurkers" comment what ever that is to mean. 

Dan

 

Posted February 17, 2020

 

Track looks very good. Can you post some up close pictures of the bands.  This type of band replacement is going to be the lowest cost available way to go.  let us know more about cost.

Thanks 

Dan

Looks good. How did you join the belts? Are you going to work the road pad issue next?

Dan

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Edited by M29
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On 4/25/2021 at 9:01 PM, D.R.H. said:

MY APOLOGIES PATRICK FOR MY RANT. I HAVE JUST COME INTO FULL UNDERSTANDING WHY CERTAIN PEOPLE WILL MAKE A "RUN" OF CERTAIN REPRO PARTS AND THEN FALL OFF INTO OBLIVION. 

You don't owe me an apology Dave - your behavior stands on its own for better or for worse.

Patrick

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Thanks Patrick.

On a Psychological note. It is funny how SOME folks can step on an other persons toes then get mad at the toe owner for speaking out. Their skewed logic being "Well it's your fault for having your toes there in the first place! If they weren't there, I wouldn't have stepped on them". THESE type of folks never seem to put it together that they're not a part of the solution. 

I think I'll return to oblivion for a while.....    A.M.F.'s.

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It is interesting how other people respond, but for me more interesting to see my own responses to these situations. 

I am technically a lawyer and still maintain a license, although I have not practiced law in over 20 years.  I have a classmate who loves to call me and ask corporate law questions - my former area of expertise.  He is charging clients several hundred dollars an hour and relying on my expertise to keep him out of the ditches.  It used to really irritate me but he is not holding a gun to my head.  I can share what I feel like sharing...at this point that generally means nothing.  He isn't a bad person for asking, even if I would never behave that way.  My choice what I share.

So, if you want to be in the bogie resto business, price it and see what happens!

If you don't, then share or don't, but I would expect that you are going to get people asking lots of questions if you do share because that is the nature of sharing on these sites and no one expects to have to pay for the information.

Regards, Patrick

 

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