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Reproducing Track Bands


Jeff Jensen

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HI Everyone

I am thinking about doing what Dave did on his tracks but was interested in having the belts custom made in an endless band to match the length of the existing weasel bands. I know width for the inner band plus thickness is important for pitch. I have also been investigating having the holes pre punched as well. It would be nice if the belting could be bought ready made to size with holes so all you would have to do is bolt on your pads.  I want to match the new bands in looks as closely to the original as possible. One piece belt with no splice would be nice as well. I know this makes the tracks harder for remove and install. 

My questions are what are the specific measurements of the hole spacing for the pads and thickness of conveyor belt to allow for proper pitch. I have some old tracks with intact bands I could copy but am concerned about stretch etc. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. 

I have attached a picture of a track I re-banded with belt in Alaska in the late 70s. The original band on one of the tracks broke so I made these. The mistake I made was I didnot use a precision jig, for hole spacing and did not have the right thickness of belt for the bands. The tracks worked and lasted for many years but sprocket wear seemed excessive plus sprockets jumped and banged when turning. I made these with one wide belt on each side of the bogey wheels sort of like the LAR track. The weasel after this track modification was much slower than it was with the original banded tracks. Back in those days there was no forum to go to for advise you were on your own so now with all the weasel fans out there in weasel land no reason to not to get it right 

Dan

20140702_150950.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 2/4/2020 at 12:14 AM, D.R.H. said:

Hi Jeff. I am almost finished rebuilding one of my 20 inch tracks. This will be my 5th. track that I have rebuilt. I am not too concerned about NOT having original bands because in my opinion, whomever decides to make O.E.M. style track bands will make a run that will fill the need here in the U.S. which I think will not be very big. Then when that need is filled, they will never be made again. Plus they will wind up being just as expensive as one of the most recent redesigned tracks. I certainly am not trying to put them down, they are just way out of my reach financially. My goal is to put a kit together that anyone who can operate a drill motor, drift punch and hammer can rebuild their track in their own shop or garage. And it will be far less expensive. 

No offense to anyone reading this with interest, I am not ready to say anything more or show any photos at this time. 

Would be interested in the kit.

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Looks like the same idea I used when I rebuilt mine a few years ago. Are they endless? Are they for 25, or 26 shoe ( I think that the numbers)? I had some repair belts I used to locate all the holes in my first rebuild. Turned out the spacing was for the different number of grousers. It caused my grouser edges to rub together and a lot of them had to be rewelded the second time around. I used elevator bolts, which looks kind of cool but adds a huge amount of work and expense. I’d be interested in a set of 4 endless bands 7 inches wide with the holes already punched.

Edited by Jesse Browning
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Would the guys who were interested in my track band replacement kit please send me a private message with your Email addresses. This way I can contact you ALL OF YOU in one fell swoop and provide more information.. Thanks. Dave.

 

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Were going to go ahead and price out some endless bands for track rebuilding. I did this about 6 years ago and then the price for 4 bands was about $1,200. At the time, I went the cheap route and bought used conveyor belt.  The bands will be 7 inches wide. I haven’t decided on the thickness yet. I want to use OEM sprockets. There was discussion on the old weasel forum about tracks and sprockets but I don’t remember. Can OEM sprockets be used with thinner bands? Does the grouser spacing have to be changed? The tracks I built before used 1” conveyor by 7” wide. The only problems I encountered were breaking of bolts because I used cheap bolts. I have not broken any of the hardened bolt used to replace the broken ones. A problem with buying used belt is that it may not be straight. Mine are not straight and you can feel and hear it.

Edited by Jesse Browning
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  • 2 weeks later...
57 minutes ago, Jesse Browning said:

The guy didnt show up. He left me a message saying he lost my address. I called him and his voicemail was full. I sent him a message to reschedule and haven’t heard from him. I need someone more on the ball than that. It’s a big investment. And I’m relying heavily on them to get it right.

Yep - no sense wasting time on unreliable people.  Keep us posted....I am still a ways away from worrying about my track issues, but it is coming 🤣

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On 3/11/2020 at 6:13 PM, Plasticwelding said:

Plasticwelding@aol.com 

PlasticWelding, I guess that you are the only guy who might be interested in my track rebuild kit. I have been extremely busy and unable to post here in a few weeks. One of the most important things in rebuilding your tracks is that you must still have all of the "hat channel" hold downs that are in the outer bands, see photo below. Another I would need to know is the grouser count of your tracks. 55 or 56? 

 

Type 3 outer band cleats.jpg

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I don't participate much on this wonderful forum just yet, I'm still working on my 1942 G-506 truck. I have to stay focused on one thing at a time. If I don't and have too irons in my fire, it tends to go out. It has been just shy of 1 year since I rebuilt my Type 3 Track. My area of the Pacific North-West has received a decent amount of snow. I had to go out and take a few photos of my Weasel resting in it. I can't believe just how much the snow increases visibility at night. 

I want to encourage everyone to keep working on their Weasels and posting great content. Thanks again to Patrick for stoking the "Weasel Fire" and getting things happening with them again!! 

 

13 Feb. 2021  (1).JPG

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Lets start with basics. 

How many grousers on the left and right of M29

How many grousers on the left and right of T15

What is the proper thickness of the belting? What have others used with success? Too thick and power and steering problems and damage. Too thin and ???? 

Width of belt? Full coverage? 7 inch? 2 inch? (I am unfortunately am a 2 inch guy)

Grade 8 bolts? T Nuts? Rivets? Hot glue gun? 

Rubber track pad options? Belting? Cast? Old tennis shoes? 

Supplier options? Who have you used? Continuous bands? Conveyer? Hardware? Tooling? 

Photos of the process if you already did some, or in process, or? 

If we start with information, I'm sure Patrick could put some great drawings and directions together in his free time? It's not like he is really doing anything anyways. 🙂

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After a search I noticed several induvial post on this topic and all had different ideas? 

Stretched belts and proper spacing seem to be a common concern. 

Sprockets?  Reuse install new? 

Just more questions. 

It's been up for 15 minutes....... Patrick are the drawings ready? 🙂

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22 hours ago, Will Dodge said:

Lets start with basics. 

How many grousers on the left and right of M29

There are both 55 and 56 grouser 20" wide tracks.....

The early M29 was built with a 15" track - also comes in 55 and 56 grouser flavors

The WW2 era 20" tracks had two bands around the center guides and then two rubber coated stabilizer cables towards the edges of the grousers.

The later 20" tracks (post war) replaced the stabilizer cables with the same bands as the center.

How many grousers on the left and right of T15

What is the proper thickness of the belting? What have others used with success? Too thick and power and steering problems and damage. Too thin and ???? 

 

Width of belt? Full coverage? 7 inch? 2 inch? (I am unfortunately am a 2 inch guy)

Grade 8 bolts? T Nuts? Rivets? Hot glue gun? 

Bolts seem be the answer.  T-nuts are also used, although I don't know anything about wear.  I don't see the benefit of doing rivets the way we use these machines.

Rubber track pad options? Belting? Cast? Old tennis shoes? 

I think the challenge is getting them to stay on.  I have been considering a 1/4" steel square with one/two threaded holes that could be welded on the grouser where the old pads were.  Considering whether Delrin pads would work - nice material and pretty durable although not sure if it is durable enough.

Supplier options? Who have you used? Continuous bands? Conveyer? Hardware? Tooling? 

I think this is a local supplier game so far.....

Photos of the process if you already did some, or in process, or? 

If we start with information, I'm sure Patrick could put some great drawings and directions together in his free time? It's not like he is really doing anything anyways. 🙂

 

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