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M29C Weasel - body nr 6672


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I made some significant progress on the Weasel. It took me a saturday from 0900hrs to 1500hrs, but now everything is removed up to the mid section divider. Remaining only the bubby headlights, Swe

Not much done. Beside other projects for other people. Anyway, I got a NOS heat control valve in and fixed the bracket which is riveted on the fuel sender unit.  

Manifold is half painted, but I ran out of heat resistant paint. In my previous post I requested about the manifold color. But may it be that there is a difference between the T24/M29 and the M29C

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IMG_20200912_1500425.thumb.jpg.4976e98fd83519e1f8974cc398be1498.jpgI made some significant progress on the Weasel.
It took me a saturday from 0900hrs to 1500hrs, but now everything is removed up to the mid section divider.
Remaining only the bubby headlights, Swedish modification and some hinges to be removed.

The engine looks to be in pretty decent shape with only some stuck valves, but further investigation needs to tell.
Now the task of cleaning and preservation will start.

Also the fuel sender is assembled, but only need to get the correct size rivets.
Some before and after....

I started to get all the tabs of the radiator straight again, but it seems not to be an original Studebaker Weasel radiator.
Does anybody recognise this one?

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Edited by F.Janssen
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That's some really nice work on the fuel sending gauge.  I am planning on opening mine up. It was nice to see your picture of the inside. What are you using for rivets to for the cover to the flange? Also it looks like you replaced the tube. Is it soldered in? I have one good gear so will need to replace one. I have another gauge for a different vehicle I was thinking I could use the gears. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

Dan

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gm fuel sender.jpg

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On 9/16/2020 at 1:39 PM, M29 said:

That's some really nice work on the fuel sending gauge.  I am planning on opening mine up. It was nice to see your picture of the inside. What are you using for rivets to for the cover to the flange? Also it looks like you replaced the tube. Is it soldered in? I have one good gear so will need to replace one. I have another gauge for a different vehicle I was thinking I could use the gears. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks Dan.

I'm going to use aluminium rivets.  
They are avaialble in 3mm x 8mm lenght. Which I think should fit, but I need to order them still.

I did not replace the entire tube.
I cut the tube below the sending unit (red marked position), and welded a new piece of pipe on it.Capture1.thumb.JPG.91ccf07258d75223bc235614dabb4b75.JPG

Yes the tube is soldered in.
The tube is soldered on the TOP part of the sending unit (blue circled). 

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I found that the gears are all brass (or similar).
I can't see how bad your's are, but mine were good salvagable and needed only a good clean.
All gears were soldered to their brass bars

Main advice would be to take care with the heat for soldering.
I had a part of the unit still assembled which included paper etc.

Furthermore I'm going to reuse the cork float.
In case you need to replace it, there are pieces of floating equipment available which are petrol resistant. 

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Thanks for the information Frank. I will post pictures of my sender when I get started on repairing it.I found another sender on Ebay and bought it for the gears.and float. The top is a different style so nothing I can use there. Anyway looking forward to getting it cleaned up and hopefully work again.

Dan

gm fuel sender.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Engine disassembled with only the camshaft remaining.

First engine parts cleaned.

The bracket to connect the gas cable has been modified.
Can someone share a picture how this needs to look like?

Furthermore, the top connection on the oil filling pipe (as on the picture), was not connected to anything when it was on the engine.
To where does this pipe need to connect to?

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  • 2 weeks later...

next items cleaned and ready for paint.

Waterpump, which is looking very good.
I think it has been overhauled just before not using the weasel ever again.

Hand controls, which is coming apart well and nothing seems seized.
Only issue is the main axle which is bended.
The Steel Lever Collar is loose, but not allowing the bended shaft to pass.
So some heat and a press is needed, to be continued. 

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  • 2 months later...

I have been away for work for a while so very limited works been done...

I needed to halt the assembly of the controls as I'm lacking about 3 bushings.
Need to see if I can find these somewhere or will fabricate some.

Have the oil filter done and the oil pump.

next up...?

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  • 1 month later...
On 12/23/2020 at 8:26 PM, Byron said:

Great to go through all these pictures as see your Progress. Great jobs on the sender units 👌 this will be a job for me soon. 
cheers, Byron

Thanks,
I think I need to redo some parts of the sender unit, I made a mistake with some anti-corrosion stuff, which is now a kind of making everything corroding even faster....

anyway, overhauled the carb, which only needs some final parts yet.

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Edited by F.Janssen
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These measurement are from the original Studebaker drawing.

A: 76,2 mm

B: 38,1 mm

C: 6,35 mm

D: 5,1 mm

The angle between A and B is 74 degrees. And the hole for the pivot bolt should be reamed to 9,51-9,53 mm.

Hope this helps.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I got a lot of small jobs done.
The rods for high/low and the short steering rods have been cleaned and are ready for green paint.
The shifting rods needs some work, as they cut the forks, extended them, and rewelded.

Most of the panels I have are ready for sandblasting.
I'm looking for some pictures on the 3/8" bolts that are spotwelded to the engine panel, on which the wing nuts are for locking of the engine cover.
Anyone a picture from the rear side?
Also looking for the length of the bolts.

Assembled the water pump, only waiting for the fan to be dry. 

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