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Hello

Does anyone have any idea how to get the water pump apart? I'm a novice (at mechanical work) and scratching my head on this one. I see the key pin way inside, but it's difficult to get to it with any tool. Will this pump break down any other way? I see a small pin on the side, but not sure if I should try to knock it in or risk damage. Help anyone.

I bought the seal repair kit, but it won't help if I can't get the pump apart.

Thanks

Kevin

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TM 9-1772 says use a 3 leg puller to remove the impeller.  You will find the carbon washer, seal and seal spring on the inside of the impeller - held in place with a lock ring.

I am personally leery of pulling impellers because they are fragile little beasts and they have often been on these shafts for decades.  I like to use a puller to remove the pulley (not sure what that pin is in your picture - not shown in parts manual).  My puller was made by @Rob W and threads into the fan mounting holes....then presses the shaft so the pulley pops off.  From there, remove the clip in the weep hole in the last picture and you can press out the shaft and impeller.  Then you can press off the impeller.  It takes longer to write than it does to do.

Regards, Patrick

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This is how I got my pulley off. I have made a strong back adaptor that bolts to the pulley flange. At the centre of the flange/adaptor I have added a hole which allows a drift to be positioned against the water pump shaft which in turn allows the pulley to be pressed off using a hydraulic press. The picture below better shows what I am describing.

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I used a big three jaw puller on the pulley, then pulled that retainer clip. Move to the press and place a large socket to clear the bearing/shaft on the front of pump while still supporting the casting. I use a small 1/4” socket to press the shaft/bearing thru the impeller into the big socket until it’s free and the shaft bearing combo will be almost out. Easy on the three jaw I’ve broken and bent pulleys on other vehicles in the past. 
Just an FYI if you have a large bearing separator big enough that the bolt holes clear the pulley I’d use that instead of the three jaw.
I noticed on my weasel pumps that the clearances of the impeller to housing had run-out. I corrected it by chucking the housing in the lathe and truing it. I didn’t have the manual at the time so I set the clearance to .013” and everything seems to be ok 😂 and still haven’t checked to see what it should be at so look it up!

Are you replacing the bearing shaft combo? It corrodes where the brass seal touches the shaft and that’s why they start leaking out the weep hole thru the bearing I use the impeller kit and a new bearing/shaft combo when rebuilding

Edited by 5280Beltfed
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Thanks for all the help guys.

I think I will print this info out and try to get a local mechanic to do this for me. I don't have the tools. I'll photo copy the book pages got from you Patrick a while back. I got the repair kit from Dave Yamulla (just came in the mail today).

Thanks

Kevin

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@Kevin Vogel I have posted these photos and info here on the forum in a separate thread but I will post again to help you out. More that likely when you get your pump apart, the mechanical seal surface will be either worn or corroded. In my case as you can see in the photos, my seal surface was beyond redemption. I chose to machine and fit a replacement 316 stainless steel collar. Any competent machine shop could do this job. I used a generic Chinese water pump bearing and also machined it to size. I have had my engine running on a test stand and so far so good. The photos will better show what I am describing. Good luck with your repair.

Water pump 005.jpg

Water pump 008.jpg

Water pump 021.jpg

Water pumps Seal face prepared to accept insert collar.jpg

Water pumps Insert Collar.jpg

Water pumps Seal insert pressed into position.jpg

Water pumps Chinese generic water pump bearing machined and fitted.jpg

Water pump boring centre hole.jpg

Water pump bearing.pdf Water_pump_integral_shaft_bearings.pdf

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58 minutes ago, OZM29C said:

@Kevin Vogel I have posted these photos and info here on the forum in a separate thread but I will post again to help you out. More that likely when you get your pump apart, the mechanical seal surface will be either worn or corroded. In my case as you can see in the photos, my seal surface was beyond redemption. I chose to machine and fit a replacement 316 stainless steel collar. Any competent machine shop could do this job. I used a generic Chinese water pump bearing and also machined it to size. I have had my engine running on a test stand and so far so good. The photos will better show what I am describing. Good luck with your repair.

Water pump 005.jpg

Water pump 008.jpg

Water pump 021.jpg

Water pumps Seal face prepared to accept insert collar.jpg

Water pumps Insert Collar.jpg

Water pumps Seal insert pressed into position.jpg

Water pumps Chinese generic water pump bearing machined and fitted.jpg

Water pump boring centre hole.jpg

Water pump bearing.pdf 53.95 kB · 0 downloads Water_pump_integral_shaft_bearings.pdf 265.85 kB · 0 downloads

Love it! I’d totally do that too instead of sealant. When I sold my resto-mod pickup the buyer asked if there were any special parts needed for the conversion. I said no not really🤪

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