Jump to content

Removing/ installing M29C tracks


Recommended Posts

Good evening, 

I recently replaced the rubber bands on my spare set of tracks and in the process of reinstalling the track on the rig. I was able to get the old track off mainly because it was 3/4 of the way broke already. I have the two brackets off the side of the haul and the front pulley loosened up. 
 

I can’t get the new track on, it appears that leaf springs have to be compressed in order to slide the track past the boggie wheels. I don’t see how that’s possible to do with a bottle jack because the track would get in the way. Anybody have any suggestions? Iv thought about splitting the track again and then using a few straps to suck the track back together and bolt it back one the track is on. 
 

 

thanks! 

7FF29C3C-0EE3-4003-92AD-A869DB1F49CC.jpeg

97285FFA-774F-4E65-92F1-0276900C98BB.jpeg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Alright so I took that wheel off and the track made it on. What’s the best way to get the front leaf spring drop and under the adjustable brackets to set the tension? Right now it’s setting quite a bit higher then the backers even bolt on. I can pull down on it but it appears that I may need some sort of pry bar on it. Is that normal? 
 

thanks again for your help!

7B584EBC-42F6-479C-B13F-E78B013E2696.jpeg

Link to post
Share on other sites

@KcanarrYou will need to beg, borrow or steal 😀 a Weasel special tool (Highlighted below) to either make a copy from or to use to tension your tracks. It would be nice to have a track jack to go with it as well but I ended up making a tensioning device out of somescrap heavy duty threaded rod. The spring tensioning bracket is really the only way to easily tension your tracks.

image.png

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well. I got the track tightened down. Worked well. Went to go test drive it and it appears that after rolling forward a few feet the rear drive stokers start to have a hard time engaging into the grousers. If I back the machine up to where it was setting originally then the teeth go back where they should. The spacing on the grousers is the same throughout the whole machine so I can’t figure out what would be causing this. Any help would be greatly appreciated. 
 

thanks 

Link to post
Share on other sites

@KcanarrRegrettably I am not an expert on tracks. I bit the bullet and purchased a set of LAR tracks to avoid the kind of problems that you are having. Having said that, put simply, there are 55 and 56 Grouser tracks. They in turn have different track pitches. Each type of track has a matching specific diameter drive wheel (what the sprocket is attached to). I am not sure what the diameters are so I would hope that other could add to this post. This topic was discussed at length on the old weasel forum so I would hope that perhaps @Byronwould have kept copies of this information.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

K, a few questions for you. Are the nuts interfering with the drive sprocket and front idler wheels? What thickness conveyor belt did you use on the inside? When I rebuilt one of my tracks last year, I could see that there would be a potential problem the the heads of the bolts I was going to use interfering with the Drive and Idler wheels. I used "T-Nuts" for my inner fasteners and 7/8" thickness conveyor belt. I measured the original inner belt thickness to be 1".

Fixing you problem may be just as easy as doing what I did. See my photo below. Dave.

 

Weasel Track Rebuild (13).JPG

Edited by D.R.H.
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...