Darryl Posted October 2 Share Posted October 2 (edited) Hi all, I’ve finally got some time to pull the engine out of this Weasel. I want to fix up the leak in the oil pan. I also want to get it running 100% on a stand before I put it back in the hull. I intend welding up a small stand on wheels for testing the engine, something like the one OZM29C made (see attached photo). What about a stand for repairing the oil pan leak problem? Patrick – I know you used one of the stands with a rotating mounting plate (see photo). Has anyone come up with a home-made design where the engine can be flipped and positioned on a suitable stand so it sits upside down allowing you to do the repair? These stands are not expensive I know but it looks like one of these things that I’ll use once and then put it in the corner for the next few years. I have a couple of engine cranes; one is a standard sized one, while the other is a larger one used for removing aircraft engines, so flipping the engine is not a problem. Its finding a decent stand to work on it while you have it upside down. What is the weight of these engines? Finally, another newbie question. This Weasel doesn’t roll at all easy with the tracks on. I’m not sure whether it is an issue with the tracks or with the final drive. Can I remove the axles and bolt a wooden plate on to keep the hubs on? Where I have the Weasel, it would be easier to lift the engine and tow the Weasel out, rather than moving the crane with the engine hanging from it. Removing the axles will also help me to isolate the towing problem – that is, the final drive, or something to do with the track tension. Thanks Darryl Edited October 2 by Darryl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Tipton Posted October 2 Share Posted October 2 The easiest solution is getting a proper engine stand - they are inexpensive - even more so if you look on FB Marketplace or at garage sales etc...can often find one for less than $100 - far less than it takes to fab. The only issue with most stands is that you will have to remove the bellhousing and flywheel to mount the engine. I don't know offhand exact weight, but from memory about 300lbs without accessories. 100% good idea to do your tune up on the stand! I just pulled my engine to do a modest amount of work on it - much easier than fighting the thing in the Weasel. As for rolling resistance, are you putting the final drive in neutral? That should help. Also, it may be time to revisit the brake band setup - are you dragging? There is a decent amount of rolling resistance - complex little beast with lots of moving parts & friction. That being said, I can move mine on level ground with some effort. It would be an interesting experiment to pull the axles about 12 inches (free them from the final drive) and see how much of a difference that makes. If it makes a noticeable difference, I think you can conclude the likely issue is your brake bands are dragging. I pulled the final drive and adjusted the bands yesterday on mine. I think I finally have the metrics worked out ...will get the engine in shortly and will post a followup. The manual has a procedure, but I don't think there is enough detail to explain the geometry well enough to get fingertip steering every time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Browning Posted October 2 Share Posted October 2 Nice engine cart. If you would make it about 3-4 feet taller, you could work on it, and pull the oil pan comfortably. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darryl Posted October 2 Author Share Posted October 2 Hi Patrick and Jesse, Thanks for the reply. Yes, those engine stands are darned cheap. I just wondered if I could combine the ability to work on the pan and oil seal on a stand that I could use for testing. Can the seal job be done with the engine sitting the right way up? That is, on an elevated stand as you say Jesse? I am still getting my head around how that seal works but I wonder if I would be fighting gravity by trying to do it that way, and I would need to invert the engine. It certainly looks like I need to be working 'downwards' on that seal rather than upwards. Patrick - yes the final drive is definitely in neutral. The last time I tried moving the Weasel, there was little movement in the tracks/sprockets when it was towed and I suspect the brake bands are stuck. I parked it at that point and just left it. I will pull the axles and see how that changes things. Thanks Darryl 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Browning Posted October 2 Share Posted October 2 I dont even remember what the seal looks like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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