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Thanks @Patrick Tipton. I am just waiting for the Engine Video to come through. I have had it on good advice from Svenn Ry over on the Weasel FB group that in my video I have the Wiper arm crank incorrectly orientated. The crank arm needs to face upwards which in turn allows the wiper arm to park to the lower left of the screen glass. I have already corrected the alignment and I will post a photo of the revised set up soon.

@F-D ZerniaI have to admit that I had some help with the wiring of my wiper motors. All of the wiring was replaced on the grey motor. The plug came from Cole-hersee and the wiring braid is readily available from Electronic supply stores. I did have to machine a brass collar to solder into the wiper motor cover which in turn allowed me to solder the wire braid into the collar. Hopefully the following photo might be able to better show what I have done. I had to adapt overcome and improvise to get my second wiper motor (Grey in the photo) going. The green motor is NOS but still needed some TLC to get it working as well. A lot of time and effort went into restoring this little used weasel part.

24May2017.JPG

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I have installed the rear floor pan, inspection covers, demolition box and final drive cover plate. The rear floor pan was for want of a better word ‘Perfect’. All I had to do was blast and paint it. No sheet metal work whatsoever. 

498100011_WilsonFloor.thumb.jpg.6d10f8f6746ae007250e01d84f5de38f.jpg

 

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On 2/14/2021 at 10:26 PM, OZM29C said:

@Patrick TiptonHi Patrick, I hope my other video will upload better.

Weasel Video.xspf 566 B · 4 downloads

You got us 🤣  Not sure why that "spiff" format doesn't play but she doesn't.  I will try and convert it later and re upload!

As for that rear pan - WOW!  I have hours ahead on mine.  Very nice!!

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After resolving the fan blades touching the winch drive shaft problem, I took the weasel for a test drive. I had only got a few hundred metres up the road to have the engine stop dead on me. I thought that I had run out of petrol. After suffering the indignity of having to tow the weasel back home with the tractor, this morning’s investigation revealed that the carburettor choke cable support bracket had snapped in half and subsequently the tension in the choke cable pulled the choke fully on. Easy fix. Glad I found it now rather than on the water. 

9773E6C9-1D37-4533-881F-E9CFE1904197.jpeg

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John, Thanks for the update. It’s a good lesson. These small parts may have been bent or exposed to the elements for many years and compromised. I have found many cracked lock washers, just due to age or poor quality I imagine. Also I have noticed a bronze thrust washer in the capstan that broke but obviously not over used.   You are right that it could be problematic on the water. I’ve been thinking when the day comes for us to check the hull I will take off all the covers and park the Weasel in the lake a few hours to check for water leaks. My work friends tease me that I should invest in a case of Flex Seal. 
Fred

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On 2/8/2021 at 10:10 PM, OZM29C said:

I reported in the previous post that I had a problem with the starter. When I pushed in the start switch, nothing happened. To make a long story short, the VWM instructions (see attached extract from the VWM instruction booklet) detailed that one of the starter solenoid wires (white with 2 red traces) should terminate on the Voltage Regulator 'B' battery terminal. After fault finding the problem I found that the said solenoid wire should terminate on the Voltage Regulator 'A' armature terminal. See the attached Wiring schematic. The starter now happily engages and turns the engine over.

Weasel VWM wiring Instructions.jpeg

Weasel Starter Schematic.jpeg

John....... I did exactly the same thing! My push starter button wouldn’t  engage. I was puzzled for at least half an hour until I realised the solenoid had two positive feeds going into it and decided it needed an earth. Move it from the battery to the armature post and broombroom I was away

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On 2/22/2021 at 8:38 AM, Byron said:

Blimey, I wonder how that one broke John, they are quite sturdy little brackets.

I’m pleased you’ve got it sorted. What’s next with the old girl?

@ByronMate, I just think it was a simple case of metal fatigue. Easy repair though. I just did not repair it that day as it was a 37 degree day. A lot hotter inside my shed. I will have the weasel back up and running for the weekend as I still have a way to go checking and testing it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I tried to get some more OD painting done today but I couldn’t get any enamel thinners in town. I had to content myself with applying some stencils instead. The black coloured stencils are copied from originals that were on my float tanks. When I get another coat of OD on the hull sides I will finish applying the stencils. The stencils came from Axholme Signs in the UK. 

1624133304_JohnStencils.thumb.jpeg.2974596abaa29a55e1f3064098a1b21b.jpeg

 

26AA1068-438A-49A1-9538-585CEA269D2D.jpeg

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John, the lettering is a nice touch. I like the idea of keeping the history. The Letterkenny tag is real special. I assume that is the name of the inspector that accepted the rebuild, like the name on the lower corner of the original data plates. WELL DONE
    If you could do us a favor. I’m very interested in how your cooling system handles the extreme heat and how it is set up. We have summer weather that gets nearly as warm as you. That information will be important to me one day. 
 Fred

 

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7 hours ago, F-D Zernia said:

John, the lettering is a nice touch. I like the idea of keeping the history. The Letterkenny tag is real special. I assume that is the name of the inspector that accepted the rebuild, like the name on the lower corner of the original data plates. WELL DONE
    If you could do us a favor. I’m very interested in how your cooling system handles the extreme heat and how it is set up. We have summer weather that gets nearly as warm as you. That information will be important to me one day. 
 Fred

 

@F-D Zernia Fred, at present the engine is running way too hot. I am waiting for a new high flow 160F thermostat to arrive. Doug Macarthy has his thermostat sitting lower into the head so I will also incorporate that mod as well. My weasel restoration theme is based on a weasel that rolled off the Letterkenny rebuild line so a lot of features I have on my weasel may not be right for a factory restoration. For example; Semi gloss OD, white stencilling, rotary light switch and accelerator pedal mod. I don’t know much about letterkenny other than what’s on google and nothing on weasel rebuilds. 

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@F-D ZerniaFred, further to my last, I believe that weasels hat went into the Letterkenny rebuild programme suffered the same fate as Jeeps that were rebuilt post war. They were stripped down to there individual components, each component was rebuilt/repaired and then the weasels were reassembled from ready use components. My hull number is 7333 but my front float tank is from a very late production weasel that had the added blackout driving light. For interest attached are photos of my donor letterkenny weasel and the stencilling on the front float tank. 

Red weasel in duluth.jpg

POL_0009.JPG

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Great work John. You’ve mentioned a couple of interesting points there, my weasel has a 190 thermostat in her and I think she’s getting too hot to. I’ve ordered a 160. Any ideas how your going to lower the thermostat  into the head some more? 
 

I also had the problem, when draining all the water from the engine 4-5 times on the engine stand due to the problem with the water pump. The head obviously had an air lock and the engine got super hot before the thermostat would open for the first time  each time I emptied the water. Father mentioned it may be an idea to drill a small whole in the thermostat to let just a small amount of water through so the air pocket gets filled each time I empty the water. What’s your thoughts? Did you encounter this? 
 

I also went for a semi gloss OD, just for easier maintenance and less scratch resistant. 

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Hi Byron,

The Thermostat I have ordered for my weasel is a 160F high flow with jigger fitted. That is the small hole you were talking about. Doug MacCarthy also mentioned that he is planning to mount his thermostat lower in the cylinder head as well. I have an idea on how to do it but I won't know if it will work until I get my new thermostat. If it does I will send over some pictures for you. BZ on your workmanship. Is this weasel a keeper or do you plan to sell it?

It would be a real help to other restorers if you could re post the restoration story and photos of your old weasel on this forum.

Cheers

JOhn

 

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Has anyone tried to run a heater hose from the water pump taping to the tapping in the top back of the head. That is how the heater core is plumbed in a car. I am looking for some answers to this from the local Studebaker club members. They drive there cars mostly in the summer around here. 
    Years ago these Champion engines were used in the midget race cars. It was popular and fast from the stories I heard 40 years ago. I saved some car pictures and a race car picture. In the race car the cooling system is heavily modified. I’m thinking there is something to moving more coolant through the head. 

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