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Well as they say, life can be two steps forward and then one step backwards. Last Sunday was the one step backwards day. I went to connect up my final drive brake control linkages and found that I had mis 'timed' the steering brake camshafts. Unfortunately it means that I again have to split the final drive, lift it out and make the necessary adjustments. Fortunately this will cost nothing $$$$$ wise but will put a dent in my restoration timeline and pride. Stay tuned.

Final drive.jpeg

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@Patrick TiptonAfter 22 years and 3 months I finally drove the weasel out of the shed under its own power. I am relieved that the marathon restoration is finally drawing to a close.  IMG_3784.MOV

Today was Weasel electrical work day. The job is not quite finished yet. I had initially prewired the instrument panel. First off I had to lay the instrument panel in an accessible position next to th

its a great feeling to be able to finally throw some OD at the project. Feels like I am getting close to the finish line now. This paint has a satin finish not matt/flat.

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Finally found a suitable SAE 30 oil, that is available locally, for my final drive thanks to advice from Brock J. and Doug Mac. and others. See attachment.

What amuses me is that I now need to order One imperial gallon can plus 2 x 1 litre containers of oil to fill the final drive that needs six US Quarts 🙄🙄🙄

CAstrol Classic XL30.pdf

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Today’s efforts were directed at re-installing the final drive. Took longer to cut a new gasket than to actually install it. Once in I reconnected the brake and high low range shift rods, the speedometer cable and exhaust pipe. 

9A2ACFF2-E053-4F42-BD43-BE1283E98FDC.jpeg

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Today was Weasel electrical work day. The job is not quite finished yet. I had initially prewired the instrument panel. First off I had to lay the instrument panel in an accessible position next to the dashboard and then temporarily connect the two main wiring harnesses to ensure everything is correct before removing the wiring harnesses and then installing the instrument panel in position where it is next to impossible to get access to check the wiring. 

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29350085_InstrumentPanel.jpg.04fc1bbd96785ce6774ad02428902e34.jpg

 

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Didn’t get much weasel work done today. It was too bloody hot. Got up to 38 or 100 in the old pounds shillings and pence. Anyway I have fitted and adjusted the passenger side track apron.

JWilson.jpg.d8bbf4b7cfab685bf5259484938b9a56.jpg

 

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Looking great John👍 Yesterday your Dash wiring picture were EXTREMELY handy to Me! I used it to cross reference for a few hours so thank you!

Electrics is my weak point so your picture basically explained the manual wiring diagram for me in simple termsAE11B38B-60D4-4F1A-BB0E-081A5910C174.thumb.jpeg.4fa4f6b0aa1cc9f08873306a5b41f16b.jpeg

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As reported previously, I had to split and remove my final drive as I thought that I had mis timed the brake camshafts. As it turns out I had them timed correctly. What I discovered was that I had incorrectly adjusted the brake bands. As I reported before the position of the brake bands around the brake drum are regulated by the butterfly nuts on the top of the casing. If the butterfly nuts are screwed in to their maximum adjustment (as I had done), then correspondingly the brake cam will be positioned well to the rear of the casing which in turn will see the brake rods at their full extension. See photo one. I would have saved myself a shi.....tload of work had I just backed the butterfly nut off to its minimum adjustment position. That in turn pushes the brake band around the brake drum and of course positions the brake cam in the correct position. See photo two. I guess we live and learn

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IMG_3909.JPG

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I am pleased to report that I have resolved the no starter problem when I pushed the start button. I will report what I found in a separate post. Over the weekend I bent and fitted the last section of fuel line, and yes I know it’s not OEM but it looks the part and it’s made of 316Stainless Steel. Thanks @Byron for the flexible carburettor to air cleaner hose. I got that off you when you were restoring your last weasel 🙄🙄🙄The blackout light resistor is fitted with the associated wiring. I had hoped to start the engine but I only had a spare couple of litres of petrol, enough to just wet the bottom of a 135litre tank. When I get more petrol, I should be right for a start.

8 February 2021 (2).jpg

8 February 2021 (1).jpg

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I reported in the previous post that I had a problem with the starter. When I pushed in the start switch, nothing happened. To make a long story short, the VWM instructions (see attached extract from the VWM instruction booklet) detailed that one of the starter solenoid wires (white with 2 red traces) should terminate on the Voltage Regulator 'B' battery terminal. After fault finding the problem I found that the said solenoid wire should terminate on the Voltage Regulator 'A' armature terminal. See the attached Wiring schematic. The starter now happily engages and turns the engine over.

Weasel VWM wiring Instructions.jpeg

Weasel Starter Schematic.jpeg

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Great find John. Thank you for sharing the wiring issue and where to find an answer. I need to mark this one in the book.  It is a good example that at times it’s necessary to look deeper for an answer. Years ago we have found inaccurate information in the motor manuals as well. Not only is it important to follow instructions but also to use the troubleshooting guide to locate an issue. 
Your looking good. It will be fun to hear it run. 
Fred

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Thank you for sharing the wiper in operation. I have never seen that, for me that will be a big day when I can do the same. 
I was wondering what you did for the cord/ whip on the motor for the electric supply. The metal braided cover looks newer. The whips I have do not look very good and I do not trust the insulation on the old wires through out the machine. I would hate to go through all this work and have an electrical  fire. 40 years ago I had an old VW burn up because of bad wire in the rocker panel. It would be a shame to repeat that incident. 
Fred

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