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1943 T-24 Restoration Thread


Patrick Tipton
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Spent a few more hours working on the bow.  Hammer, slapper, dolly, shrinking disc and torch - rinse and repeat a few hundred times.  It didn't look too bad originally (see first picture) - but it does look better flat.  The first pictures are the first session - I put a little primer on it at the end of my second session to help me see if there was anything left.  Total time - about 4 hours.  I believe I am slow at this work, but I can't for the life of me figure out how to make the process go faster without screwing something up - probably just more experience.

I still need to address some damage and a prior repair on the top edge of the hull.  Once I get the hull off the rotisserie, I have a bit to do in the front center section and the driver side, but I am getting there, one little dent at a time.

192210035_FrontT24(aspurchased)small.thumb.jpg.8cc6085adb3d38ca8e03e1a4937ec3ed.jpg1273468636_PassengerBow1stSession.thumb.jpg.4f668eedf379e5d23153dfeeb9513090.jpg709280511_PassengerBowStraightening1stSession.thumb.jpg.182aeb09a6b4181d2ebdccae9221828a.jpgSecondSession1.thumb.jpg.60893d31652c9c72739f990adb480213.jpgSecondSession2.thumb.jpg.321579ef70d1c83179dc14a835e63cdf.jpgSecondSession3.thumb.jpg.e6cd6d7fd8e28c2f2d376f43a096c6d6.jpgSecondSession4.thumb.jpg.de8de6c70e019dc212761d35d3f35372.jpg

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I bought out a guy who had been collecting Weasels and stuff for a while.  I got a lot of rare parts including this very nice Pioneer compass and mount.  It is missing the decal so I made one up.  I may play with the fonts a little more because they are very close but not quite right - still it looks pretty good.  Just need to turn the letters white and print it on a transfer decal.

PioneerCompass.thumb.jpg.2d6e0cf3c5022febac91e3c81cee0e64.jpgPioneer-Compass.thumb.jpg.8ad4f241bbf1ef80932a1cc8f6e3c33a.jpg

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Hi Patrick,

In your latest youtube video you had a question about one of the panels in the rear of the vehicle.

The cutout should be there in my opinion.
It is to allow the panel to be fitted with the bracket of the stretcher-bracket installed.
A good picture on the pages of OZM29C:
954450036_WilsonFloor.jpg.b5863f4d3a519c

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@F.JanssenYou are correct, the cut out should be there. The back panel with the cut out is used for the later weasels that had the stretcher pocket installed from the factory.

This is my very early T24, no stretcher pocket and no cut out.

IMG_4574.thumb.JPG.b8c2c849ed4c1746507d63e6692912fc.JPG

Just out of interest, does anybody know when they started to install the stretcher pocket? 

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I had this insane idea of shooting daily videos of this restoration during March so I have not been posting much here. 

I am trying to get the hull finished and painted this month.  I think that should happen.  The hull is off the rotisserie for the last bit of work. 

My biggest distraction is the M29 I purchased with all my parts for the T24...it runs but has a ton of problems - so tempting to play with it because it does move under its own power but I am trying (somewhat unsuccessfully) to stay focused on the T24!

My checklist:

1.  Weld final two seat hat channels and seat brackets.

2.  Weld spring seat latches

3.  Weld control shaft support/bracket on side of hull (need to fabricate as mine is toast)

4.  Weld cross shaft support bracket on driver side of hull

5.  Massage bulkhead/bomb box fitment on driver's side and plug weld to floor.

6. Finish cleanup of plug welds on new drivers side

7. Finish front seam on new driver side.

8.  Install insulation tabs as needed

9. Repair footman loops (stretcher mods)

10. Repair rear panel - straighten and add pioneer tool brackets

11. Repair bow sections (center & driver side minor dents)

12.  Cleanup floor welds from inside hull

13.  Verify bulkhead holes and repair as needed.

14.  Planish coaming as needed

15. Dents top of bow and stern (minor shrinking/planishing)

16.  Final floor shrinking (back on rotisserie for paint

17.  Use chemical/media blast to remove flash rust

5FFF6BDC-148D-4CE7-BB57-0B8E18F5CC99.thumb.JPG.be8589dca30c54233c707f0d7b568863.JPG

 

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@Patrick Tipton

"My biggest distraction is the M29 I purchased with all my parts for the T24...it runs but has a ton of problems - so tempting to play with it because it does move under its own power but I am trying (somewhat unsuccessfully) to stay focused on the T24!"

Screenshot_20210308-073346~2.png

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4 hours ago, Byron said:

Your doing a great job Patric! I enjoyed your pioneer compass video the other day. Some interesting facts in there. Thank you

Thank you Bryon - appreciate it.  Glad you enjoyed that video - I am having a lot of fun both with the restoration and learning to make videos. 

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Cross shaft support bracket repaired and installed.  I need to do a little more work on the cover.  Interesting that there was some type of wear strip on the bottom of the cover...presumably a canvas strip.....this one has the staples still in it.

I also fabbed a new support bracket for the steering arms - install on Friday after I repair the steering arm control shaft...

IMG_7938.thumb.jpg.2b55603b5e884abe3dfbf0185b25f599.jpg

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I have been making daily videos for those following along on Youtube which means I have been less diligent on this end.

I finished fabricating the new tiller control shaft bracket and got it welded on the hull.  I need to clean the plug welds and do a little cleanup in general of the area, but I am pleased.  I had to repair the shaft -incredibly buggered up because this hull sat outside and the bracket formed a nice little container for water which rotted away the end of the shaft.  I welded on new metal and turned it back down.  I did not mirror finish it...I still may go back and do a little more work on it, but I got the shaft back to solid and looking pretty good.  It will certainly work.

IMG_7954.thumb.jpg.74d4cc2b1fdb2030d815079c504ed3cf.jpg

I also moved my engine into the work area and will start disassembling it soon.  The motor is a Norwegian rebuild with standard mains and rods and .20 over bores.  It will be interesting to see how the insides look.

Finally - does anyone recognize this radiator?  It supposedly came out of a French rebuilt T24. It fit beautifully so if an adaption - they did a wonderful job.

IMG_7956.thumb.jpg.efe12f17c89aa5b56f38933d3fd46f0b.jpgIMG_7957.thumb.jpg.c12ccad0fdd4fd336ff206fb5f848861.jpg

 

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@Patrick TiptonImpressive work Patrick👍👍Will you be fitting the tiller arm reinforcements? Might be a worthy mod to consider looking at the repairs already done on one of your tiller arms. I would get that radiator checked by a radiator shop and if good, use it. I too have French rebuild kit in my weasel as well. 

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@OZM29C Thank you John.  I have been wondering about those reinforcements - is it just human nature to pull too hard on those arms or are the forces reasonably light if everything is well adjusted?  Every Weasel I have driven has had pretty high stick forces, but I have never driven one that was fully restored.  How hard is your steering?

One other thought - I purchased that Hossfeld tube bender and could pretty easily (I think)..bend a new arm and just weld them in (both of mine have repairs and one side is thin in a couple of spots).  Jeep  windshield arms are the same diameter tubing and they are doubled with a smaller tube inside of it.  I happen to have stock...was thinking about doubling and bending one up.  If I leave the doubler short 4 inches or so...never see it.

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@Will Dodge Thanks Will!  Yes - the hull did not look that bad and probably was about standard for Weasels in this part of the world, but it was a huge amount of work to bring it back to more or less new.  The remainder of the restoration should be pretty well downhill - I have almost everything - most is in good shape so just a lot of cleaning and refurbing. 

I am going to install original 15" tracks so that might be a rodeo yet....I have a set + so I will be getting into the questions you are posing on the track thread.  The 15" are different because they only have two bands instead of 4....this Weasel will be a little more of a trailer queen than a runner although I do want to be able to drive it around.  I may swap the tracks out after I get it finished and photographed and run something more durable....TBD.

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4 minutes ago, Patrick Tipton said:

@Will Dodge Thanks Will!  Yes - the hull did not look that bad and probably was about standard for Weasels in this part of the world, but it was a huge amount of work to bring it back to more or less new.  The remainder of the restoration should be pretty well downhill - I have almost everything - most is in good shape so just a lot of cleaning and refurbing. 

I am going to install original 15" tracks so that might be a rodeo yet....I have a set + so I will be getting into the questions you are posing on the track thread.  The 15" are different because they only have two bands instead of 4....this Weasel will be a little more of a trailer queen than a runner although I do want to be able to drive it around.  I may swap the tracks out after I get it finished and photographed and run something more durable....TBD.

Did yours not originally come with track? 

 

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13 hours ago, Patrick Tipton said:

@OZM29C Thank you John.  I have been wondering about those reinforcements - is it just human nature to pull too hard on those arms or are the forces reasonably light if everything is well adjusted?  Every Weasel I have driven has had pretty high stick forces, but I have never driven one that was fully restored.  How hard is your steering?

One other thought - I purchased that Hossfeld tube bender and could pretty easily (I think)..bend a new arm and just weld them in (both of mine have repairs and one side is thin in a couple of spots).  Jeep  windshield arms are the same diameter tubing and they are doubled with a smaller tube inside of it.  I happen to have stock...was thinking about doubling and bending one up.  If I leave the doubler short 4 inches or so...never see it.


Brilliant work Patric. I love learning all the time with these things and your pictures are very detailed for other people to work off. 

My last weasel had reinforced tillers and I was happy to leave it. This weasel I have nearly finnished does not. To be honest, I have to apply very little pressure  to make the weasel turn nicely. I found using only two fingers means I don't pull too hard and make the weasel snatch into a corner. Light pressure and I feel those bands start to grip. Throwing the weasel into a corner doesn’t feel nice as I’ve experienced recently.

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