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1943 T-24 Restoration Thread

Patrick Tipton

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More work.  I am really going back and forth on whether or not to have the inside of the hull soda blasted before painting.....thoughts?  Cleaning it is rough...I am getting there...but there are a lot of nooks and crannies!


I have a fairly mismatched undercarriage with T24, M29 and later style suspension parts.  My goal right now is to get a complete set of later cast style yolks and brackets together, cleaned and painted so I can get this machine back running.  I have 4 early style yokes that were field modified with a web to keep them from bending.  I am going to cut that web out and probably install them all on one side so that the driver side (as an example) will be more correct.  I may make these pieces as they are bent probably 1/8 or 3/16 steel pieces that I think I can fabricate. 

I have plenty of bogie wheels...lots of 44 and 45 dated.  They are in great shape - just need cleaning. 


These are the early style yokes with the field modified web and later style "bogie brackets".  The early brackets are a Y with straight arms and point down when installed...the later ones are installed "up".   See the differences in the next picture. 

Anyone have any early brackets lying around?






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I finished the repairs to the hull over the weekend.  I have one insulation tab to add by the drivers feet and to finish and install the battery tray - it is mostly ready for install, just needs to be trimmed and the rear battery hold down strap installed. 

I am going base coat/clear with a 2K epoxy primer.  My paint guys said we could not add flattening agent to the white paint without getting a chaulky mess so this will be a first for me.  I don't like spraying period but I am going to spray all of this outside - not the greatest condition, but I would rather have stuff in the paint than be inhaling this junk.  The clear can be made fully matte so we shall see how it looks and wears.

The nice thing about the epoxy primer is that I can use a little glaze before I base coat it if I have any areas I really don't like.

I added a couple of pictures of my spot welder.  It works great on new metal...much harder on older metal unless it is perfectly clean.   Speaking of clean, I Tigged up a broken rod on the brush guard...hard to clean it completely and got some nice porosity🤪 if there is such a thing...I like to tell myself it looks original!


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I have been using this white epoxy prime coat by interlux for years on boats and now my T15 it is awesome looks just like the winter white paint of the T15. It can be sanded and used as a basecoat or be  be clear coated with a satin clear. FYI


Epoxy primecoat.png

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I have been at the painting game for 3 days....painting a Weasel is a ton of work.  The biggest issue is getting all the restoration debris out of the hull - really a pain.  We must have vacuumed this hull 50 times, plus blow it out, flip it over, etc.  I still managed to dump a bunch of sandblasting residue into the matte clearcoat so I have some repairs yet to do.

The inside and bottom of the hull is finished thru clear cloat...with a lot of flattener so there is a little gloss, but not much.  There are a couple of areas that need a little fixing, but it is supposed to rain tomorrow so I am going to get the hull back on springs and off the rotisserie and back in the shop.  I am also going to start laying out the camo so I can paint a really flat clear coat on Sunday/Monday and call it a day.

There is still a lot to do, but it is nice to see the hull in white!IMG_8502.thumb.jpg.acdd8f03df09fe3fee138a3e4d19c4ff.jpg

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On 5/28/2021 at 5:38 AM, Patrick Tipton said:


So there is a section in TM 9-772 that describes how to activate and blow up the Weasel.  It has quite a few pictures and diagrams - very cool system, although I have almost no hope of ever seeing any original bits! The detonator itself is stored behind the driver in that little compartment (cover almost always gone) on the bulkhead.   If you don't have the manuals, you can download them (links above) or we sell a set of everything for a little over $100....

I believe the charge was C3.....plastic explosive but an earlier and less stable version of C4....

There is a polish gentleman making very nice repros too....about $300.


Does anyone have a part number or model number or picture of the detonator handle for the weasel? 




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On 6/26/2021 at 5:46 PM, OZM29C said:

I'll bet that you can't wait to start bolting the trinkets and jewellery onto the hull. This stage makes the restoration more satisfying.

Absolutely right John!  I got all the debris cleaned up.  After all of the prep work, I still managed to get out nearly a cup of dust/debris.  Unbelievable!  Wet sanding the inside of a Weasel hull is a staggering amount of work and I did the finish coats without moving the hull at all - I let it dry totally and then moved and repeated.   I did not achieve a Ferrari finish, but then again, it isn't a Ferrari.  I think I have developed OCD. 


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On 6/29/2021 at 12:16 AM, RAS1 said:

Yes. I thought it would be cool to mock up something...

@RAS1 There is an excellent article in the April/May 2019 MVPA History in Motion Magazine that was written by Brock Jollife (M29C Floater owner). This article discusses the Demolition system in a T24. I am not sure on the copyright/ownership of this article so I won't scan it and post it here. Perhaps @Patrick Tipton would know the  legalities of posting information from an MVPA magazine?

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8 hours ago, OZM29C said:

Perhaps @Patrick Tipton would know the  legalities of posting information from an MVPA magazine?

We can't legally post it without permission.  That being said, I am working on a couple of projects with the publications editor for the MVPA - so let me see if we can get permission.  It is good for the MVPA to get their content seen! 

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11 hours ago, Patrick Tipton said:

We can't legally post it without permission.  That being said, I am working on a couple of projects with the publications editor for the MVPA - so let me see if we can get permission.  It is good for the MVPA to get their content seen! 

@Patrick TiptonThanks Patrick. I could always ask Brock permission but at this point of time the MVPA would be the first point of contact. It is a great article BTW.

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I am cleaning mechanical parts and fixing the last bits of metal work.  One issue I have/had is that I did not have a correctly early rear floor panel without the front access hole.  I did have a junk piece of an M29C floor panel though with reasonable intact beads and another nice one to modify.  Fired up the TIG welder.  The metal on the donor piece was so pitted that I cut just about everything off but the bead.  This made it easy to get the bead lined up correctly and installed but means more seams to hide.  I will be out in a bit to work on this a little more.  Should come out pretty well.



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