Lighthorse 31
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Posts posted by Lighthorse 31
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So here's a couple more I can't figure out. I've looked through the parts manual pictures but without a reference number it's leading nowhere. I have 3 sizes of the cone bearings too. Wondering if they go to different locations on the track rollers or something?
Mark
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I started going through my extra parts and found some tyranny stuff. Looks like a mix of other part like from the rear gear case maybe? Some are NOS, some appear very lightly used. Looks like I have the major parts to build up the T84 if I decide to go that route. Oh, I also have an unopened tyranny rebuild kit for the T84. I 'm Just wondering if it's worth it. Or just stick with the T86. Any thoughts?
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Got the transmission out and at appears I have a T86E-1. It looks to be in good shape. Oil was clean, no water, and everything spins and shifts smoothly. I also have a NOS casing for a T84 G-1. Can I get some help with questions?
1. The T86 has a little wobble in 2 spots which I pointed to with a pencil. Slight wobble where the bearing race sits in the housing and in between the two gears I pointed to. Is this OK or normal?
2. Is it best to stick with the T86, or build up the T84? I'm not super concerned right now with historical correctness. Which would be the better move?
3. I have a couple NOS innards for the T84, but nowhere near everything I'll need. Are the components in the T86 compatible with a T84? If not, would I be able to find all the parts I need?
Thanks for all the help guys!
Mark
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I finally got the replacement engine I acquired disassembled and cleaned the block as best I could. I also cleaned the pistons up. Hopefully they can be re-used. I also included a pic of a couple things I finished rebuilding. Just the carb, oil pump and distributer drive assembly. Not much but it's a start! I will be dropping off the major engine components to a local machine shop who specializes in old engines so they can help me make sure everything is within tolerance and goes back together correctly.
I do have a question about the pistons though. On 3 of them the connecting rod swings back and forth fairly easily. The other three are VERY stiff. I took them apart and the piston pin pretty much has to be hammered into the stiff ones on re-assembly. The other 3 that move easy I can kinda get in by hand with only a slight tapping. Is it ok for them to be so stiff? I saw on page 78 of TM9-1772 that the piston can be heated to allow the piston pin to be slid in more easily, but I couldn't get them in without using a rubber hammer using that method either. Is this normal?
Mark
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18 hours ago, Beepbeep said:
Hi Mark, they don’t appear to have a website, phone number is 559-292-6933. I bought my sprockets from them through eBay
Chris
Thanks Chris!
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On 9/15/2021 at 3:08 AM, Beepbeep said:
Seeing those shows just how worn my sprockets are, thanks for that. I’ve ordered a set from Accu-rite Machine works in California so hopefully that’ll be the first step in rectifying my problem. Thanks again
Does anyone have a web address or phone number for Accu-rite machine in California? I looked on the internet and can't find what looks right for them.
Mark
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20 hours ago, Prc148 said:
Is there a newer equivalent for Rustoleum light machine gray rattle can? I can only find a gallon and it’s 45 minutes away? All retailers are out of stock. I found one on-line retailer but they charge a haz-mat fee on top of shipping. May have to buy a few newer gray cans to see what’s close.
Try rustoleum smoke gray. One of the other members said it's a replacement for machine gray and is the same color. I found it at Lowes today.
Mark
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Hey 3284. Are you still making these?
Mark
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2 hours ago, 42rocker said:
If you get HF then add the few extra dollars and get the 20 ton press.
Later 42rocker
Totally, thanks for the advice rocker. Now I just need to find room for it in the garage. I did manage to convince our mechanic at work that he "needs" a sand blasting cabinet. So at least I don't need to get one of those, ha ha ha!
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2 hours ago, Patrick Tipton said:
Mark - if you have a press....do it like this - exact same process......if you don't have a press...get one!🤣
Well there it is! Guess I'm getting a press. Thank you sir!
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On 10/30/2020 at 3:48 PM, Patrick Tipton said:
TM 9-1772 says use a 3 leg puller to remove the impeller. You will find the carbon washer, seal and seal spring on the inside of the impeller - held in place with a lock ring.
I am personally leery of pulling impellers because they are fragile little beasts and they have often been on these shafts for decades. I like to use a puller to remove the pulley (not sure what that pin is in your picture - not shown in parts manual). My puller was made by @Rob W and threads into the fan mounting holes....then presses the shaft so the pulley pops off. From there, remove the clip in the weep hole in the last picture and you can press out the shaft and impeller. Then you can press off the impeller. It takes longer to write than it does to do.
Regards, Patrick
Hey Patrick (or anyone else who can help),
The shaft is stuck solid in the body of my pump. It does spin and run really nice though. I can probably just leave it for now, but would really like to change, or at least inspect everything inside while it's out. However, the shaft is stuck solid into the body. Just to clarify, does it press out from the pully side toward the impeller side? If I place a socket or something of the right size against the bearing outer race and press there will I be reasonably assured not to damage the bearing?
Mark
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9 minutes ago, M29 said:
I see on a google search Machine Gray is still available online. Lowes carries smoke gray they use to carry machine gray. I have used both and not much of a difference if any between the two IMO.
dan
Awesome. Thanks Dan!
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13 hours ago, M29 said:
Rustoleum machinery gray now replaced by smoke gray
dan
Thanks for the reply Dan. Sorry, but could you clear up what you mean? Are you saying machine gray is best but it has been discontinued and replaced by smoke gray?
Mark
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Thanks Patrick. I ended up getting it out, but had to take the gear off the shift from inside the engine. The outer gear was forced on because the woodruff key wasn't in straight.
On a second topic, I've looked all through the forum and have found a lot of references to the engine color bring a gray-blue but not much on specifically what exact color it is. Has anyone found that color in a spray can that I won't have to mix up and put in a spray gun?
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Need some help. I'm trying to remove the oil pump. The idler gear came out no problem, but I can't get the driven gear out. The manual says to gently pry it out but it won't budge and I don't want to force it. I tried a 90 degree flat head screwdriver. It fits underneath fine (there is enough slack) but I can't get it to move. Any ideas?
Mark
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Got the major components off the engine and with a lot of heat got the head off. Well. Looks like things aren't as good as I originally thought. There are some issues with the top areas of the valves being rusty.
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I had an idea that maybe a thread where we can post unknown parts and items where the group can help identify them might be helpful. I acquired a bunch of spare parts and although most are still in original packaging, a lot are not. Can anyone tell me what these two items are? The second one might be track rivets?
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Just now, Lighthorse 31 said:
And here is the engine I just acquired
As a side note, the oil filter was removed from the current engine. I was told that maybe they did that because of a loss of oil pressure? The newly acquired engine is supposedly in good shape according to the guy I got it from.
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Just now, Lighthorse 31 said:
So I need some advice. Yesterday I was able to obtain a bunch of spare parts from a guy who sold his weasel a few years ago. One of the items was an engine. I'm wondering which engine I should put back into my hull. The engine in it now does not have a serial number stamped on the upper left side of the engine. The "new" engine does have a T24 serial number and a data plate that appears to be from somewhere overseas (Norway?). which engine would you guys put back in?
Here is the original engine it it now.
And here is the engine I just acquired
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So I need some advice. Yesterday I was able to obtain a bunch of spare parts from a guy who sold his weasel a few years ago. One of the items was an engine. I'm wondering which engine I should put back into my hull. The engine in it now does not have a serial number stamped on the upper left side of the engine. The "new" engine does have a T24 serial number and a data plate that appears to be from somewhere overseas (Norway?). which engine would you guys put back in?
Here is the original engine it it now.
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On 11/1/2021 at 5:49 AM, Patrick Tipton said:
Congrats Mark:
Plenty of work to restore it back to original, but it appears to have good bones and a good running gear and the hull looks pretty darn nice.
7. The modification to the track tensioner is to make up for slack because the tracks have stretched/drive wheels are worn so the tracks slip. Ultimately this will need fixing....but one thing at a time.
1. & 2 Apparently there were M29C's made without float tanks. Float tanks are cool, but they definitely make a Weasel much less maneuverable so most of those tanks were removed post war. You will be in good company with a float tankless M29C.
3. The seat situation is a little tough. Keep your eyes and ears open. Not sure what you can do as a substitute...
4. Hard to tell from the one picture of the rear. There is nothing hard to fabricate on the rear panel/area of a Weasel so I think you will be better off just making it. The opening for the exhaust/cooling looks intimidating to make, but you can do it pretty easily with a hammer form and a little patience. Otherwise, there is a strengthening gusset along the top - the rest is flat sheet metal.
Are you planning to do a full restore or are you going to try and get it running and then fix parts?
Patrick
Patrick,
The plan was to eventually get it as close to original a possible. IN the short term, I think just getting it running would be a win! I can always work on swapping back in OEM stuff and modding the hull back to original as I am able to find the parts and get the time.
Mark
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19 minutes ago, Patrick Tipton said:
All of the 4 seat Weasels share the same carburetor: Carter Model BBR1-577S.
David Yamulla @David Yamulla sells NOS rebuild kits (plus lots of other Weasel parts) - he is on Ebay or you can reach him at ye@epix.net...or here.
Awesome. I'll reach out to him. Thanks again Patrick!
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Hey all,
Can someone help me with how to ID what specific carb I have in my M29C? I'm looking for a rebuild kit but can't figure exactly which kit to buy. The only markings on the carb are "O-512". Here are a couple pics of it. It actually dissembled quite easily and appears to be in overall decent condition. It should clean up nicely. The parts and gaskets all look in really good shape (all things considered) but I figured while I'm here, and it has been sitting for quite a few years, I might as well rebuild it. Also, I was looking at Daytona Parts for the kit. Is there any reason I might go with someone else?
Mark
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On 7/6/2021 at 12:26 PM, RAS1 said:
We had the weasel finished for about 5 years, I was around 12 years old. I had great times restoring it, driving it, I even wanted to take it to school for show and tell. (Dad said no to that one, school was not very military friendly (10 years after vietnam)).
My Dad needed to stock up his surplus store, and had very little money to do it, so he traded the weasel to a surplus store owner in Woodstock, IL that closed down for the remainder of the store's inventory.
That wasn't a fun memory.
So, I kept an eye on Weasel. It went through a few owners, and I heard about it from a friend around 2010. I was told the engine blew, and it had been parked. I asked many times over the years to have the owner contact me, but never heard back. In 2015 I started my own surplus store in Rockford, IL. Over the next 5 years, I transformed it into more than a surplus store, more like a museum and a store with many interesting displays and collectibles on the walls...
An OH-58 A/C in the background!!!! I flew those at Ft. Rucker in flight school. Same paint scheme too! I hope THAT helo is on the docket for restoration RAS1!!
Mark
What's it????
in Headquarters
Posted
Thanks Patrick! I was able to find part numbers for most of the things I acquired except these. The guy did have a few jeep items laying around. Maybe some of these came from that.
Mark