Lighthorse 31
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Everything posted by Lighthorse 31
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Thanks Patrick! I was able to find part numbers for most of the things I acquired except these. The guy did have a few jeep items laying around. Maybe some of these came from that. Mark
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So here's a couple more I can't figure out. I've looked through the parts manual pictures but without a reference number it's leading nowhere. I have 3 sizes of the cone bearings too. Wondering if they go to different locations on the track rollers or something? Mark
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I started going through my extra parts and found some tyranny stuff. Looks like a mix of other part like from the rear gear case maybe? Some are NOS, some appear very lightly used. Looks like I have the major parts to build up the T84 if I decide to go that route. Oh, I also have an unopened tyranny rebuild kit for the T84. I 'm Just wondering if it's worth it. Or just stick with the T86. Any thoughts?
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Got the transmission out and at appears I have a T86E-1. It looks to be in good shape. Oil was clean, no water, and everything spins and shifts smoothly. I also have a NOS casing for a T84 G-1. Can I get some help with questions? 1. The T86 has a little wobble in 2 spots which I pointed to with a pencil. Slight wobble where the bearing race sits in the housing and in between the two gears I pointed to. Is this OK or normal? 2. Is it best to stick with the T86, or build up the T84? I'm not super concerned right now with historical correctness. Which would be the better move? 3. I have a couple NOS innards for the T84, but nowhere near everything I'll need. Are the components in the T86 compatible with a T84? If not, would I be able to find all the parts I need? Thanks for all the help guys! Mark
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I finally got the replacement engine I acquired disassembled and cleaned the block as best I could. I also cleaned the pistons up. Hopefully they can be re-used. I also included a pic of a couple things I finished rebuilding. Just the carb, oil pump and distributer drive assembly. Not much but it's a start! I will be dropping off the major engine components to a local machine shop who specializes in old engines so they can help me make sure everything is within tolerance and goes back together correctly. I do have a question about the pistons though. On 3 of them the connecting rod swings back and forth fairly easily. The other three are VERY stiff. I took them apart and the piston pin pretty much has to be hammered into the stiff ones on re-assembly. The other 3 that move easy I can kinda get in by hand with only a slight tapping. Is it ok for them to be so stiff? I saw on page 78 of TM9-1772 that the piston can be heated to allow the piston pin to be slid in more easily, but I couldn't get them in without using a rubber hammer using that method either. Is this normal? Mark
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Thanks Chris!
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- tracks
- track restoration
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Does anyone have a web address or phone number for Accu-rite machine in California? I looked on the internet and can't find what looks right for them. Mark
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Try rustoleum smoke gray. One of the other members said it's a replacement for machine gray and is the same color. I found it at Lowes today. Mark
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Hey 3284. Are you still making these? Mark
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Totally, thanks for the advice rocker. Now I just need to find room for it in the garage. I did manage to convince our mechanic at work that he "needs" a sand blasting cabinet. So at least I don't need to get one of those, ha ha ha!
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Well there it is! Guess I'm getting a press. Thank you sir!
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Hey Patrick (or anyone else who can help), The shaft is stuck solid in the body of my pump. It does spin and run really nice though. I can probably just leave it for now, but would really like to change, or at least inspect everything inside while it's out. However, the shaft is stuck solid into the body. Just to clarify, does it press out from the pully side toward the impeller side? If I place a socket or something of the right size against the bearing outer race and press there will I be reasonably assured not to damage the bearing? Mark
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Awesome. Thanks Dan!
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Thanks for the reply Dan. Sorry, but could you clear up what you mean? Are you saying machine gray is best but it has been discontinued and replaced by smoke gray? Mark
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Thanks Patrick. I ended up getting it out, but had to take the gear off the shift from inside the engine. The outer gear was forced on because the woodruff key wasn't in straight. On a second topic, I've looked all through the forum and have found a lot of references to the engine color bring a gray-blue but not much on specifically what exact color it is. Has anyone found that color in a spray can that I won't have to mix up and put in a spray gun?
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Need some help. I'm trying to remove the oil pump. The idler gear came out no problem, but I can't get the driven gear out. The manual says to gently pry it out but it won't budge and I don't want to force it. I tried a 90 degree flat head screwdriver. It fits underneath fine (there is enough slack) but I can't get it to move. Any ideas? Mark
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Got the major components off the engine and with a lot of heat got the head off. Well. Looks like things aren't as good as I originally thought. There are some issues with the top areas of the valves being rusty.
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I had an idea that maybe a thread where we can post unknown parts and items where the group can help identify them might be helpful. I acquired a bunch of spare parts and although most are still in original packaging, a lot are not. Can anyone tell me what these two items are? The second one might be track rivets?
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As a side note, the oil filter was removed from the current engine. I was told that maybe they did that because of a loss of oil pressure? The newly acquired engine is supposedly in good shape according to the guy I got it from.
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And here is the engine I just acquired
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So I need some advice. Yesterday I was able to obtain a bunch of spare parts from a guy who sold his weasel a few years ago. One of the items was an engine. I'm wondering which engine I should put back into my hull. The engine in it now does not have a serial number stamped on the upper left side of the engine. The "new" engine does have a T24 serial number and a data plate that appears to be from somewhere overseas (Norway?). which engine would you guys put back in? Here is the original engine it it now.
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Patrick, The plan was to eventually get it as close to original a possible. IN the short term, I think just getting it running would be a win! I can always work on swapping back in OEM stuff and modding the hull back to original as I am able to find the parts and get the time. Mark
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Awesome. I'll reach out to him. Thanks again Patrick!
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- engine & accessories
- restoration thread
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Hey all, Can someone help me with how to ID what specific carb I have in my M29C? I'm looking for a rebuild kit but can't figure exactly which kit to buy. The only markings on the carb are "O-512". Here are a couple pics of it. It actually dissembled quite easily and appears to be in overall decent condition. It should clean up nicely. The parts and gaskets all look in really good shape (all things considered) but I figured while I'm here, and it has been sitting for quite a few years, I might as well rebuild it. Also, I was looking at Daytona Parts for the kit. Is there any reason I might go with someone else? Mark
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An OH-58 A/C in the background!!!! I flew those at Ft. Rucker in flight school. Same paint scheme too! I hope THAT helo is on the docket for restoration RAS1!! Mark
