M29C3284

@OZM29C Yes, that's the one. @Patrick Tipton I guess you measured 26 ohms and not 26 micro farad? I measured two NOS fuel senders and they both measured 0-125 ohms from full to empty, so when I did some calculation I came up with that the resistor should be around 60-65 ohms. Not sure if this is correct or not. Hopefully we can get a measurement from an undamaged resistor. I have heard both good and bad about the commercially available resistors.

I was thinking of maybe trying to reproduce a batch of this resistor as it seems to often be missing. If you have one that is not broken and can check the resistance value it would be very helpful.

@Patrick Tipton Check the parts catalog it is in there.

Time for another update. The assembly of the hull came to a stop as I found out that I needed several new suspension bolts and bushings, which I believed I had bought NOS several years ago, but appearently I had not. And looking around these seemed to be unobtanium so I had to make them. These parts are supposed to be nitrited so I'm looking for a company that is willing to do it for me. In the mean time I decided it was high time I finished the restoration of all the gauges. I had done the speedometer a few years ago, but left the rest for later. Here's a few pictures of the restoration of the ammeter and fuel gauge. Ammeter before restoation. All parts of the ammeter cleaned. The housing, ring and hardware have been sandblasted and zinc plated. New cork gasket and vulcaniced paper insulators have been laser cut. Installing the insulator on the clamp. Fuel gauge before restoration. Fuel gauge going back together. I put shellac on all the parts that had it originally. My little tool to hold the gauge while I crimp the ring bak on. Two finished oil pressure guages. The one with the repainted face is for the weasel the other one, to the right is for an MB. The weasel gauge had an extra rubber gasket for the glass, which I assume is because the weasel is amphibious. One thing I need help with though. I have a step down resistor for the fuel gauge but it is broken in two. Can somebody tell me what the resistance is supposed to be? I have measured the resitance on the broken peices and came up with 33,8 ohms, is that correct?

@Bravo28 I can supply you with those hoses. https://forum.portrayalpress.com/topic/30-weasel-fuel-and-oil-hoses-for-sale/

The angled cut at the rear is 45 degrees. At the front it follows the same angle as the tub. I got my hinge halfs from Robert Walsh over ten year ago. I don't know if he has any left, but you can always contact him. Here's also a few pictures I took when I did mine.

Nice, I like those oil lines☺️

Here's a picture of the distributor drive. With screw that holds it to block removed you should be able to remove the distributor with the drive in place.

These should be in a higher resolution. Check if they are readable, I don't know if the resolution id lower when posting them. If they are unreadable just PM me and I can email them to you. NO top bow plans.pdf

The oil filter restriction should not cause the oil pump to bleed out. Could one of the oil gallery plugs be missing or leaking? The oil filter in these old engines is not fully filtering the oil as in modern ones, only a quarter or so of the oil is filtered at any time. That is why you should not use modern engine oils in old engines which suspend the dirt in the oil. Old engines where designed so most of the dirt would settle in the bottom of the oil sump.

On mine after rebuild I had same issue, after doing the same as you (filled oil filter housing, pumped oil into the oil passage connected to the oil pump). But after filling the oil pressure guage line I got oil pressure a reading on the gauge.

@Guido Ferluga I have hose sets available if you want one.

If you have all the broken peices it can be brazed back together. Check also for cracks at corners of the keyway slot, mine was cracked there so I had to replace it.

I think those number are the diameter of the cylinders after honing. So 05 I would think is 0.0005" and 1 would be 0.001" over the cylinder nominal diameter. I think those numbers where stamped at the factory so they would know which pistons to use in what cylinder when the block moved to the next station on the assembly line. Pistons made to the same diameter are never 100% accurate on size. Also, I have seen the assembly date stamped on the oil sump flange of the block on earlier Studebaker engine block. You might when to have a look for it there on your engine.