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M29C3284

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M29C3284 last won the day on July 10

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  1. Here are a few pictures of the early canvas shift lever seal, installed from serial 1003. 954165: 954396:
  2. @JamesD Thank you. Wow 165 changes that is a lot, we should definitely compare notes. I have checked my notes and the "hot hole" change serial is only mentioned in an old article about the weasel in the club magazine of the Swedish counterpart to the MVPA. I have not been able to confirm it thru any other source. I have also edited my first with your corrections.
  3. @RAS1Thank you. Since this part is one of those parts that are originally made from unobtainium. I made one, from some scrap thinwall tubing I had laying around. Dimensions in the drawing below. I flared the ends by placing the tube piece on the round end of a ball peen hammer and then used another hammer to knock the ball end of the first hammer into the tube, creating the flare. I then repeated the process on the other end, cleaned it and painted it with some cold galvanizing paint which I gave a slight polish after it had dried.
  4. @RAS1 The round one is correct for the T24, M29 and M29C. The flat tube is for T15 and Studebaker cars from 1932.
  5. @M29DeBella jeep parts got NOS coils for the weasel: http://www.debellajeepparts.com/WEASEL.htm
  6. @Patrick Tipton Don't forget to add the footman loop next to the front bow pockets before you paint the hull.
  7. I'm no expert on norwegian weasels, but your engine have been overhauled by them. I can't say if your weasel is a norwegian return or not from the picture. Does it have a trailer socket.
  8. The holes you are showing in the two first pictures should not be there. As for the four rivets on the bottom, they hold the bracket to which the electric fuel pump is mounted to. I would replace the rivets with new ones if they are leaking. They where originally soldered over after installation to seal any leaks.
  9. I think you are right about that @Patrick Tipton. My T24 (Hull no. 197) still have a few spots of the bakelite paint left on the bottom. And from what I can remember from when I last had a look at it, it looks like it was brushed on.
  10. M29C3284

    Spot Welders

    @M29By installing the hat channels and floors before the sides, I managed, with the longest arms, to reach almost everywhere I needed. The only place I could not reach with the was in the front upper corner on the drivers side side panel. I also sprayed all the areas that where going to be welded with weldable primer and my spot welder handled it perfectly. The areas that where not going to be welded, inside of the hat channels, etc., got two coats of epoxy primer and one coat of Ardrox AV100D. AV100 is a cavity wax.
  11. M29C3284

    Spot Welders

    This is the spot welder I use. It's an Wieländer+Shill InvertaSpot ATM H2O. It's water cooled and has electronic weld time, amp control and clamping pressure so setting it up is very easy. You just choose which type of handle to use; single side/stud gun or the pinch, double side, handle. Set the type of steel; plain, coated or stainless. And then just choose the thickness of the material you like to weld. Like all welding the cleaner the metal is the better the weld will be, even with this machine. I bought this machine second hand and luckily it came with lots of extra arms and accessories. But I mostly use the longest arms which have a reach of about 60 cm. One slight nuisance with the InvetraSpot is that the cable between the machine and the handle is very heavy. So using it for longer periods of time is exhausting, that is why it is hanging in the crane☺️ I also have the type that John has. I use it when I need to just do one or two spots. The only problem with that one, is like John says, you have to wait for the electrode tips to cool between welds. Otherwise it is very easy to overheat the electrodes and get brittle welds.
  12. Not so good eyes actually, more been there done that😄 That is good to know. I think Studebaker used leftover weasel parts in their M series trucks.
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