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Patrick Tipton

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Patrick Tipton last won the day on May 23

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40 Kilroy

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  • Vehicles & Projects
    1943 Willys MB, 1968 M274A2 Military Mule, 1962 M274A1 Mule (Project),1943 Studebaker T24 (Project)
  • Location
    Beemerville, Republic of New Jersey/USA

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  1. I believe both. I am no track expert so we can wait until one jumps in here, but there were several versions of the track with differing numbers of grousers.
  2. Looking great. Love the work with the Pullmax - those corner pockets look awesome! I know the feeling really well of getting a panel really close and then it seems to stop. First step is to hang up the tools for the night and come back a day later. As I am no guru, your mileage may vary but here is how I understand what is happening. The panel can't go flat again until it is. I know that sounds silly, but hang with me. Shrinking alone will not get it perfectly flat - you will have to planish further. I find that I get the best results with a slapper. 1. Cover the entire area with your Dykem/Sharpie so you can see what is happening. 2. Where you can see that you have a wave - planish the whole area with the slapper until you get a nice oil canning effect - pops in and out. If there are any small ridges/bumps - you need to get them out now. Use a body hammer/dolly if you need to direct the force into a small area. I have a body hammer with a flat pointed edge - almost like a wide thick screwdriver (don't know the proper name) - it works great for this kind of work because it doesn't tend to mar the metal surface. 3. Be ready to experiment with on/off dolly techniques. It often helps to put a heavy dolly in the center of your bump and then hammer on the "edge of the crater" with a slapper or a body hammer (carefully). It often doesn't seem like much is happening, but we are only trying to move the metal a little bit so that is somewhat to be expected. 4. Once the area feels totally smooth but rounded (gentle oil canning bump), shrink with the disc. I find it works best to shrink on the protruding side. If you have access issues, hit the protruding side with a big dolly (yep - caveman metalworking) - until it pops out on the side you have access to shrink. If you go easy on the pressure with the shrinking disc in the beginng, the area with tighten up as the heat causes it to expand and you will be able to shrink it more aggressively without it "popping back". I know it sounds funny, but when you get to this stage, you are really close.... You can move the metal faster with the torch, but don't get it hot or you will cause localized waves that you will have to remove with a hammer and dolly. At this point I just heat until the steel begins to turn color and then cool. I think the hardest part about this straightening is having the conviction to continue. I find myself getting it really close and thinking - "good enough" but.... because I am scared to make a decent job worse. I think the operating idea is to be bold here...you have gotten it this close and you can get it totally flat if you just go a little further. Again - great work and thanks for taking the time to share your process!
  3. Greetings - after a couple of requests, I made up t-shirts with a T-24 line drawing on the back. I had a guy do the line drawing and am pretty happy with how it came out, although I might should add the parachute "straps". I am happy to ship anywhere. If the shipping calculator on the website gives a crazy $$ number, send me an email and I will see what we can do. These were ordered a few days ago and are "guaranteed" to be in stock by 7/17. https://www.portrayalpress.com/Portrayal-Press-T-Shirt-p/620-mds-0102.htm Patrick
  4. Sorry for the lack of posts. I have been busy building a better rotisserie and planning for repairs of the left side. Longer update soon!
  5. Awesome! I think the thing that most of us miss is that 90% of getting a project done is just doing these little tasks as often as you can get to your shop. You wake up and all of sudden you can see it finished and you keep going. Patrick
  6. That is a nice project. Lots of very good condition parts!
  7. John - that would be awesome thank you. I think the T24 had a fixed, welded strap in the back (presumably what is pictured) and a similar removal one in the front to facilitate gas tank removal. It has a separate part number that I found but have not been able to cross reference. Still working on it. I am going to put together a quick post/article when I finish my research so we have it for future reference.
  8. What do they say...90% complete, 90% to go?😂 Looks great!
  9. I will reinstall all of the tabs before I prime. I need to make them.....
  10. @OZM29C Thank you because I didn't know 😂. I need all the help I can get!
  11. More progress on the hull. I am almost finished with the bulkhead repairs and the right side passenger area overall. I am happy with the results. One little challenge I have is that this hull was sandblasted before I got it but had flash rusted. I would prefer not to sandblast the hull again, but want to get the surface well prepped. My G503/MB had been similarly sandblasted, stored and flash rusted and I used Evaporust on several areas of the tub with good results. I can't logistically dip the entire T24 hull, although that would be fantastic. The challenge with Evaporust is that a part needs to stay submerged for several hours in order for the product to be effective. I read somewhere about using a shop towel to keep a flat panel wet/covered and then using a spray bottle to keep the Evaporust/panel wet. It works great - not fast - but I am going to try and get in the rhythm of working on a small section every time I hit the shop. I still may get bored with the process and have parts of the hull media blasted before I paint it, but we shall see. I bought two gallons for $60 so it is certainly a cost effective way to go. I reuse the shop towels by placing them in a sealed container at the end of my session. They will last for a bit. The center hull panel in the first picture was covered for about 2 hours and you can see it is pretty clean. I posted a video yesterday on Youtube (Episode 53) that also shows the process and results on the very rear corner of the hull - looks pretty good. The next project is the battery tray - mine was gone. The T-24 battery tray was made out of 1 inch angle iron. The challenge is that Studebaker put a couple of roughly 1 inch "S" bends in the angle iron to ensure that the batteries sit level. I have not ever even tried to bend angle iron, but it turns out to bend pretty easily with a hydraulic press. I need to modify my tooling a bit to get the bend a little deeper but this will end up working just fine. I will post better pictures in a couple of days. This is my first attempt.
  12. I can probably get a kit or two over to you in a bigger shipment of books if you have some flexibility in timing. The books go to Doncaster in South Yorkshire....close to you? Regards, PBT
  13. I am excited about my T-24 but seeing all these T-15's is very cool! Enjoying the progress! Patrick
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