-
Posts
170 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
45
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Blogs
Events
Articles
Store
Downloads
Posts posted by M29C3284
-
-
13 hours ago, Patrick Tipton said:
Thanks James - is there supposed to be a captive nut in there then?
No, there should be, like I said earlier, nothing in that hole.
-
-
John, do you have any drawings of the clamps? I need to make them for my weasel.
-
13 hours ago, OZM29C said:
Last but not least I made the end stops for the rudder cable where the cable terminates inside the Steerer. In the first photo (I think this photo belongs to Jeep Tom??) you can see that the cable is terminated with permanent crimped stops. I opted to use an adjustable crimp.
I will add more to this thread when I install the rudders.
Yes those cables are Jeep Tom's. I made them and the tubes for him from the original Studebaker drawings.
-
I can sell you a copy of the drawing if you like. Send me a PM if your interested.
-
Will the bands be riding on the rubber part of the wheel with this solution? The sprocket assembly looks a bit wide in the picture, with the sprocket being flat and not countersunk on one side like the original..
-
This is the most serious solution to the track problem I have ever seen, I hope it turns out as good as it looks.
-
They are on the original engineering drawing. They where added in a revision on 26. May 1943, but here is no mention on what they are for.
-
-
Yes, I have the original Studebaker engineering drawing for the fuel tank.
-
Welcome to the forum Jeep Tom. Glad to see you here.
-
Don't forget to add the 1" radius to the front bend.
About the weld nuts I think they are actually stamped out in one piece, and then drilled and tapped.
- 2
-
Nothing beats TIG when welding thin gauge stuff. The only drawback with TIG is that the metal needs to be cleaner then it would when welding with MIG.
- 2
-
John, your work is truly inspiring. Thanks for sharing it.
-
3 hours ago, M29 said:
Hi Frank
the way the outer band has been attached to the track is interesting It looks like an original rubber outer band but yet has no sign of the old band hold downs. Might be a solution for future track bands?
Dan
It's not the same as the original band as it's rectangular in shape. And yes it could be a good candidate to copy for track restoration. I will take a closer look at it next time I'm at my T24.
-
21 hours ago, F.Janssen said:
I assume it is coming from Sweden.
It is not Swedisch made, as I found the USA number, but I can imagine parts were changed during it's life.
Oon the side there is painted the name of a Swedish foresty service: xxxxxverket (I can't remember the first part of the name).
There is also a sticker present with: Reindeer International Snowmobile Cup Arjeplog SwedenIt should say DOMÄNVERKET, which was and still is under a different name, the state forestry service. They where a big user of weasels in Sweden and commissioned a lot of the production of Swedish made replacement parts.
I see that you weasel also has the second front seat installation.
-
-
3 hours ago, M29 said:
Hi Alexander
The engine repair you did sounds like the same I will have to do on my T15 engine. I know the valves are all stuck and no1 cylinder is pitted. so a bore will be needed plus crank has some corrosion spots so that will have to be done as well. The dilemma I am having is I have a better engine from an M29C but it would not be the original. I wonder if the weasel gods would condemn me if I used the other block. I know I would still want to go through it as well so basically would save the bore and crank grind work. I am really thinking that staying as original as possible is the best though.
Dan
If I where you I would restore the original engine. It keeps it original and increases it's value.
-
17 hours ago, D.R.H. said:
WOW!! Work on this level is hard for me to comprehend, however, I have to replace some panels on my Weasel. The flat ones are pretty straight forward and easy for me, the hard ones are the front and rear bottom panels that have the radii. Would I be able to talk you into cutting out one of each for me please? I will pay you for them, naturally. Thanks Dave.
Thank you. The front panel that I replaced I didn't use any fancy high tech tools to bent it. I bent it around a pipe to rough it in and fine tuned it over my knee to get it to fit properly. It's only 1,25 mm steel so it's not too hard to bend.
I'm not sure if it will be cost effective for my to cut those panels for you considering I'm in Norway/Sweden. Shipping something of that size is not cheap. I can provide you with the drawing of the front panel piece if you like.
- 1
- 1
-
Interesting it looks like some sort of hybrid between a T24 and a T15.
I'm leaning towards thinking that this could be one of those Swedish made replacement parts for the weasel. They where used quite hard by the different forestry companies back in the day, and parts where not that easy to come by.
-
There are two things you can't have enough off in the shop, good lighting and welding clamps
- 1
-
-
-
Interesting, I remember that photo in the brochure I've attached. The photo description in the brochure says is't being lowered into a water tank for leak checking, but I find it strange that they would dip a bare steel hull into water.
What Goes Here?
in Headquarters
Posted
The revision I spoke of is not for the trans service access cover. There is a total of 23 revisions to the floor pan drawing, 952391-952392, and none of them are for the trans access cover hole. Dose the earlier floor pan without the trans access hole have different part number?