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Kcanarr

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Everything posted by Kcanarr

  1. Well. I got the track tightened down. Worked well. Went to go test drive it and it appears that after rolling forward a few feet the rear drive stokers start to have a hard time engaging into the grousers. If I back the machine up to where it was setting originally then the teeth go back where they should. The spacing on the grousers is the same throughout the whole machine so I can’t figure out what would be causing this. Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks
  2. Thanks! Do you have a photo of one that you use? I ended up getting it tight but I don’t think it was done the easiest way possible. Just working with what I had.
  3. Alright so I took that wheel off and the track made it on. What’s the best way to get the front leaf spring drop and under the adjustable brackets to set the tension? Right now it’s setting quite a bit higher then the backers even bolt on. I can pull down on it but it appears that I may need some sort of pry bar on it. Is that normal? thanks again for your help!
  4. Okay awesome thanks! I’ll try that tomorrow!
  5. Good evening, I recently replaced the rubber bands on my spare set of tracks and in the process of reinstalling the track on the rig. I was able to get the old track off mainly because it was 3/4 of the way broke already. I have the two brackets off the side of the haul and the front pulley loosened up. I can’t get the new track on, it appears that leaf springs have to be compressed in order to slide the track past the boggie wheels. I don’t see how that’s possible to do with a bottle jack because the track would get in the way. Anybody have any suggestions? Iv thought about splitting the track again and then using a few straps to suck the track back together and bolt it back one the track is on. thanks!
  6. Goof afternooon guys, Thanks for the photos and tips. I found a local store here that sells the conveyor belt material. They have 1/2" thick 4 ply that would work I think. From the looks of it I'd run 1/2" thick on the out bands and double it up (1" thick) for the inside bands. Does that sound correct? Another question that I have is does it make a huge difference using used conveyor belt VS. new belt? I know used stuff is already stretched and using new stuff might cause problems later down the road, but I wasnt sure if aybody have experience with this in the past. Once I get everything together for it I would think it would go somewhat fast, but I also havnt done one yet so I'm not 100% sure haha. Last question is i noticed that OMZ29C the photos that you shared has the metal steel plates recessed in the outer rubber bands, do you know how that was done? Thanks again for the help fellas!
  7. Good evening guys I have been doing some research on the track rebuild and trying to get all my materials gathered up before I start ripping and tearing. I contacted the gentleman in MI about the road pads and he said that he was not interested in doing just one pair because it was not worth it to him and that he would need to get a few sets together in order to make it worth his wild. He also mentioned that he would sell the stuff for making them for about $5500 but that’s a bit out of my price range haha. iv seen some point running a combination of a few different things. Some at 1/2”thick doubled up. Some are 3/4” and some are 7/8” thick. I’m trying to round up the materials to get going and trying to figure out thickness, width, and length of the rubber needed. Also a description of it would be great. I chatted with a company locally here today and sounds like there is a few different types of conveyor belt material out there, depending on ply and stuff. also, I was told that people use used belt material because it’s already stretched. Is there an industry that you guys have found usually has that stuff? ( aviation, shipping, etc.) thanks! does anybody
  8. Thanks fellas! I like the snake river setup but I have some questions, is there any reason I couldnt just use the hat channels that are already being used to hold the outer bands in place? Just looking at the out bands that he has it looks like he fabricated new tabs to help hold the belt down. 5280Beltfed; I also like your setup, I'm in Anchorage and have a supplier here that I would think have the materials in house but I'm not 100% on that and won't be able to chat with anybody until Monday now. I like the setup that you had made, would be interested in chatting with the outfit that made those for you. Couple general questions: Is the material that people are using now just as tough at the original material with the cable in them? Just wondering cause I'm unsure. Does anybody happen to have lengths of bolts they bought for holding the track together so I can start rounding those up? Thanks again a bunch for your help everybody!!! Kennedy
  9. Awesome thanks guys! I cleaned the Carb, cleaned the points up and she fired right up and has been running excellent since! Very happy with the outcome!
  10. Good Evening, I recently purchased a M29C and finally got it running. Thanks to the helpful folks on this fourm! Runs great! Greased everything on the drive train, backed it off the trailer and started to test drive it and while backing up I bushed the left track partially off. I kinda had a feeling something was going to break and I was planning on either pulling these tracks off and going through them or rebuilding the spare set that it came with and swapping them out. Was hoping other people on here would have some insight on that... I'm new to the weasel world and have been doing some research, not a whole lot but some. Looking around it seems that the rubber bands for the tracks is hard to come by. I was wondering what people have done to repair/improve the tracks over the years. The part that broke was a chain link that somebody else installed I'm guessing years ago, and if possible I'd like to install something better, I'm sure this worked great if it didn't set and got frequent lube. However, it sat and froze up. I know that the OG had cables that ran along them and that seems like an okay idea but any insight on best way to go about this would be great. A little insight on my intentions (if it help). I was planning on getting the rig running, going through the tracks and boggie wheels and such, I'm not looking to restore the Weasel this winter but plan to later down the road. I mainly and trying to get it going to be able to move my cabin materials across a lake this winter and was to make sure that I won't have any issues with the tracks mainly. I'll continue to do research and studying on them but was mainly wondering what people have done in the past to solve the issue of replacing the hard-to-find rubber bands. Thanks in advance! Kennedy
  11. Good Evening Fellas, Thanks for the help and tips getting the ignition system figured out. I got spark back! Just had to clean up the points and away it went. I put some fresh gas in and after sitting for about 6 years (so I'm told) it fired up. I'm having carb issues now and removed the carb to rebuild it.. Seems like a pretty simply setup. Anybody know much about getting a rebuild kit for these? Looking at the manual it appears to be a Carter carb. The issue I was having was keeping it running once it would fire. I'm sure there is a few other factors playing into the roughness and tough starting but this is an easy one and I'm sure would have had to be done anyway. Also looking at replacing the plug wires with new just due to age, I noticed that when I pulled to cap off that all the plug wires where pretty stiff, might as well replace them now... I got looking more for the tag and took photos but I'm having trouble getting them from my phone to my computer. I will try some more in the morning. All and all its going pretty well and seem happy with the outcome so far. Another question that I had cause I'v never seen or heard of it before but coming off the intake manifold is what appears to be a check valve and air fitting (like one used on air tools) it's coming off the right side of the motor. Anybody heard of this? I started mounting my doors and windows to see how they fit but it appears that somewhere along the way the hinge material got messed up so I'll be replacing that with new and new screws to mount them. Thanks again guys! this has been great! Kennedy
  12. Sounds great 5280Beltfed. I got the starter reinstalled this evening and it's working properly. I cleaned the fuel tank out and put in 10 gallons of fresh gas. I pulled the choke, cranked it but nothing. Pulled plugs and they appear wet. I cleaned the plugs and reinstalled them after cranking the motor with the plugs out to clean the cylinders out. It appears as though I'm not getting any spark now. Not too surprised as I kinda figured the points needed cleaning as well. Just figured I'd git it a shot before digging into it. One thing that I'm not 100 percent sure I'm doing correctly is the ignition switch. My model (early model im assuming based on the instrument panel layout) has the start button, as well as the actual ignition switch. Now, if I turn it all the way to the right then my electric fuel pump starts running. If I put it in any of the other three spots that it can be in then nothing happens. I'm a little confused because I did not see anything that talks about a fuel pump in the manuals, and the ignition switch is wire opposite on early models VS later models. However, if I have an early model and its wired correctly, then turning the ignition on will not allow the electric fuel pump to run. Does this make any sense? Tomorrow I'll mess around with it some more and take some better photos of the instrument panel. I did connect the plugs to the wires and ground the plug to check for spark but did not get any, so either I'm not doing something correct or the points are messed up. Thanks! Kennedy
  13. Thanks for the additional information! I looked on the bulkhead that you where talking about and didn't find any sort of data tag or hull tag. I'll take a photo tomorrow. I did get a socket on the mail crank pulley and find out that the motor isn't locked up so I'm pretty stoked about that. I pulled the starter off (much easier said then done) that lower bolt for the starter is kinda a pain to get to. Found that the pin that's mounted on the relay on the starter was froze up, not allowing the bendix to kick out. I got it cleaned up and was going to replace the brushes. You said that you can have them rebuilt, I'v replaced many brushes before and could do it myself but not too sure where to begin with finding these replacement brushes. Is there an old car that used to use the same starter in it to make it easier when I got to the parts store? Or does anybody on here have an idea of where is a good place to get the brushes? Everything else on the starter looks great. As far as figuring out what switches to what, I think I have most of them figured out... once I get the motor running then I'll worry about getting the other stuff working, but I was thinking about just mounting LED lights up on the front. I'm going to be using this rig to run across a lake a few miles hauling cabin materials for the cabin I'm building. Thanks for the manuals! Those things are a life saver
  14. Patrick, Thanks for the information, I'll get things updated. As for the info on the M29C, thats good to know. Where would I find the serial/data tag? There is some tags on the instrument panel but it mostly describes the operating limitations.. I later found out that it was a 12V system and going to work on the connections tomorrow. Just wondering, do you know if they still make these starters in worst case? Also wondering if somebody might be able to tell me what some of the switches do. I figured out the battery disconnect and the start switch but some of the others have me stumped. Thanks!
  15. Update: thanks to the help of this fourm I was able to download some of the older manuals and found that they did make some that came as 12V. so here is the issue I’m currently running into: I installed a freshly charged battery, when start button is engaged the relay clicks but you don’t hear the bendix kick out and engage. You can physically move the spring loaded deal on the starter but it does not seem to make a difference. New brushes maybe? thanks
  16. Good afternoon, just purchased this weasel. Fully enclosed cabin. Photos don’t show the side panels due to them being removed for travel. It appears to have the original motor. ~1800 miles. Been sitting for about 6 years. It’s been converted to 12V. Has anybody else done this? I’m trying to figure out what starter might had been used as this one is dragging and needs to be rebuilt/replaced. Any advice will help! Thanks!
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