Patrick Tipton Posted June 18 Share Posted June 18 There were two carburetors used on the Weasel series - the Model 561S for the T15 and the BBR1-577S for the T24 & later variants. They are largely the same carburetor. Rebuilding them is not difficult, but you do need to be patient with them and pay attention. Rebuild kits are available. I will post more pictures as I reassemble a 577S for my T24. We reparkerized the base and top of the carburetor today. The process is not difficult, but does require a few tools. I have work to do restoring the body of this particular carburetor. More on that later. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZM29C Posted June 18 Share Posted June 18 @Patrick Tipton Patrick, don't damage or destroy the plug in the attached photograph. Replacements are not provided in the repair kits. Don't ask how I know? 😂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Tipton Posted June 18 Author Share Posted June 18 Thanks @OZM29C John! You are always keeping me out of the weeds my friend! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radiogeek99 Posted June 19 Share Posted June 19 That was the first thing I did to mine after flushing out the bad gas and charging the battery. Started right up after that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZM29C Posted June 21 Share Posted June 21 Although technically not a carburettor part, this little baffle fitted below the carburettor is important and sometimes missing. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZM29C Posted June 26 Share Posted June 26 @Patrick Tipton Patrick, just adding the attached Weasel Carburettor parts breakdown to this post. This was a scan I made from the information sheets that were supplied in the OEM parts overhaul kit I used to refurbish my carburettor. Weasel Carby Page 1.pdf Weasel Carby Page 2.pdf 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZM29C Posted June 26 Share Posted June 26 @Patrick Tipton Patrick, more info 😄 Here is a copy of an email I received from Ron Hewitt at Daytona Parts Company. It makes for an interesting read. I ordered and received 4 each Carb Accelerator pumps Part# 156A that in turn were required to recondition the OEM 64-89S plunger rod and piston assembly in page 2 of parts list that I have previously posted. John! We also make our own basic repair kit for the Carter BBR-1 Weasel military carburetor. The original Leather is a "chromed" leather ( a special process to add extended use for the leather, resulting in a purplish color). This is the best you can do for any type of gasoline, E10 or otherwise. The issue with any accel pump is the continual contact with gasoline. Any carb accel pump will not give good service in applications that are continually setting and drying out, regardless of the carb make and model! This is just the way it is. Leather pumps will give excellent service, as well as more modern flurocarbon rubber pump cups, as long as they stay immersed in gasoline. When they set and dry out, the leather shrinks and it must be re-immersed in gas for a few minutes before use, to expand to their original working diameter in the pump well. So, to help with this problem, you can simply change the method you use to restart an engine that has set for a few weeks: DO NOT immediately start pumping the accellerator pedal when re-starting the engine. Just crank the engine over, for say 15-20 seconds, to allow the fuel pump to fill the bowl of the carb with gas. Then let it set for at least 10 minutes. This will allow the fresh fuel in the bowl to also fill the pump chamber and allow the leather to re-expand to its normal working diameter. This method, with any leather pump, will allow it to give you much longer service life. When the leather on the pump shrinks it is not in contact with the sidewall of the pump well; when the engine starts, the vacuum actuated accel pump in the Weasel carb preloads the leather portion upwards, and when accellerating, vacuum drops on the piston head of the pump, and the spring causes the pump to move downward and discharge a shot of fuel. If the leather portion has not had time to soak up fuel and expand in the pump well, the force against the liquid fuel will cause the leather to "roll over" and ruin the pump. This is a common cause of leather pump failure; not because the leather is not good, but it cannot do its job is it is not fully expanded and sealed against the side wall of the pump well. So, a little patience can greatly extend the useful life of any leather pump. Our part #156A is made for the Weasel carburetors. This item costs $10 ea + shipping to AUS. I hope some of the information helps you, and if you are still not sure of the above explanation, let me know. Thank You! RON HEWITT DAYTONA PARTS COMPANY 1191 TURNBULL BAY ROAD NEW SMYRNA BEACH, FL 32168 PH:386-427-7108 FX:386-423-8528 www.daytonaparts.com 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Tipton Posted June 26 Author Share Posted June 26 Great information John - TY! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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