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Rubber Track Pads


Aron Callewaert

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One important criteria will be the look and effectiveness of orginal design vs. modern road pads.  I have a set of type 4 tracks on my weasel with all ofv the original road pads intact and I have not found a parade or event that will allow me to drive on their concrete with them.  Perhaps more rubber on the surface than steel and they may allow.  So, to what end do we search and spend time and efvfvort on original type road pads.

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18 hours ago, Signsup said:

One important criteria will be the look and effectiveness of orginal design vs. modern road pads.  I have a set of type 4 tracks on my weasel with all ofv the original road pads intact and I have not found a parade or event that will allow me to drive on their concrete with them.  Perhaps more rubber on the surface than steel and they may allow.  So, to what end do we search and spend time and efvfvort on original type road pads.

To the end of .....stop throwing money at a one-way issue. There's now way to make disposable tack new again. Save the money that will be thrown down the tube. ....even if you make new pads that hold, the 70+ year old grouser will break .............Buy new tracks.... Problem solved..

This is 15 year's of original banded tack.  Then moved on to LAR track (2011 run) talking

Edited by James Di Giovanni
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To each his own, but to spend $15k and have the tracks look like a Volvo backhoe may not be the perfect solution for every weasel owner.  My own personal  opinion is that I see the weasel track market going for the original look using as many original or NOS parts as possible with an updated modern technology solution for the bands and pads.

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Hopefully, here are two pics of two grousers on one of my weasels showing original track pads, with the second photo showing one missing.  As I feel the grouser, it appears that four rivests come through on either side of the pad which hold the cleats for the inner track bands.  In my proposed band replacement scenario where the rivets are removed and conveyor belting layers are installed using the original cleats with bolts and nuts to replace the rivets, I'm wondering if a road pad solution might incorporate the same rivet holes and running bolts through sunken holes in the new road pads and then through the rivet holes and into the new belting and cleats.  No additional holes to drill or alter the original grousers in any way.  New road pads may be larger in size to allow for bolt attachment, but would still look similar to original pads.  No hockey pucks on the grousers.

 

And, if they were bolted on and one or two got thrown during use, a easy bolt on replacement could be done in the field.  Just something to ponder.

 

Now, to try to post photos . . .

road pad 1.JPG

norway panel 2.JPG

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