Engine stands

[Darryl]

Hi all,

I’ve finally got some time to pull the engine out of this Weasel. I want to fix up the leak in the oil pan. I also want to get it running 100% on a stand before I put it back in the hull.

I intend welding up a small stand on wheels for testing the engine, something like the one OZM29C made (see attached photo). What about a stand for repairing the oil pan leak problem? Patrick – I know you used one of the stands with a rotating mounting plate (see photo). Has anyone come up with a home-made design where the engine can be flipped and positioned on a suitable stand so it sits upside down allowing you to do the repair?

These stands are not expensive I know but it looks like one of these things that I’ll use once and then put it in the corner for the next few years. I have a couple of engine cranes; one is a standard sized one, while the other is a larger one used for removing aircraft engines, so flipping the engine is not a problem. Its finding a decent stand to work on it while you have it upside down.  What is the weight of these engines? 

Finally, another newbie question. This Weasel doesn’t roll at all easy with the tracks on. I’m not sure whether it is an issue with the tracks or with the final drive.   Can I remove the axles and bolt a wooden plate on to keep the hubs on?  Where I have the Weasel, it would be easier to lift the engine and tow the Weasel out, rather than moving the crane with the engine hanging from it.  Removing the axles will also help me to isolate the towing problem – that is, the final drive, or something to do with the track tension.

Thanks

Darryl

 

Edited October 2 by Darryl

[Patrick Tipton]

The easiest solution is getting a proper engine stand - they are inexpensive - even more so if you look on FB Marketplace or at garage sales etc...can often find one for less than $100 - far less than it takes to fab.  The only issue with most stands is that you will have to remove the bellhousing and flywheel to mount the engine.  I don't know offhand exact weight, but from memory about 300lbs without accessories. 

100% good idea to do your tune up on the stand!  I just pulled my engine to do a modest amount of work on it - much easier than fighting the thing in the Weasel.
 

As for rolling resistance, are you putting the final drive in neutral?  That should help.  Also, it may be time to revisit the brake band setup - are you dragging?  There is a decent amount of rolling resistance - complex little beast with lots of moving parts & friction.  That being said, I can move mine on level ground with some effort.  It would be an interesting experiment to pull the axles about 12 inches (free them from the final drive) and see how much of a difference that makes.  If it makes a noticeable difference, I think you can conclude the likely issue is your brake bands are dragging.  I pulled the final drive and adjusted the bands yesterday on mine.  I think I finally have the metrics worked out ...will get the engine in shortly and will post a followup.  The manual has a procedure, but I don't think there is enough detail to explain the geometry well enough to get fingertip steering every time.

[Jesse Browning]

Nice engine cart. If you would make it about 3-4 feet taller, you could work on it, and pull the oil pan comfortably.

[Darryl]

Hi Patrick and Jesse,

Thanks for the reply.  Yes, those engine stands are darned cheap.  I just wondered if I could combine the ability to work on the pan and oil seal on a stand that I could use for testing.

Can the seal job be done with the engine sitting the right way up?  That is, on an elevated stand as you say Jesse?  I am still getting my head around how that seal works but I wonder if I would be fighting gravity by trying to do it that way, and I would need to invert the engine.  It certainly looks like I need to be working 'downwards' on that seal rather than upwards.

Patrick - yes the final drive is definitely in neutral.  The last time I tried moving the Weasel, there was little movement in the tracks/sprockets when it was towed and I suspect the brake bands are stuck. I parked it at that point and just left it.  I will pull the axles and see how that changes things. 

Thanks

Darryl 

[Jesse Browning]

I dont even remember what the seal looks like.

[Darryl]

Hi all,

I now have the engine out of the Weasel.  I have to say that removing the engine was an interesting experience.  You do need to get the engine to some height to clear the sides of the hull. Even my large engine crane was maxed out on height on its standard setting to get the engine over the side of the hull.  An engine leveller was very handy to tilt the engine one way or the other to clear various things in the hull.  I think an overhead gantry will be on my future shopping list.

I bit the bullet and purchased one of the engine stands which can rotate the block so I can repair the oil pan seal.  I removed the bellhousing, clutch and flywheel and setup up the yoke mounting plate from the engine stand onto the front of the block first, centralising it around the crankshaft as best I could. I’m using  four long (3 ½”) 3/8” UNC high tensile bolts.  I initially thought that these would be a little light for the weight of the block but it seems fine so far.

I then lifted the engine with the crane and placed the yoke mounting plate into the stand mount. I should have put a bit of grease on the yoke shaft but forgot all about it.  It didn’t affect how it worked though.

In the end it worked fine. I left the engine leveller on the head but released the two chains on one side and then gradually lowered the crane.  This allowed the engine to rotate under control on the engine stand yoke shaft.  Now that I have the engine mounted on the engine stand, I also have  a strop from the crane around the crank pulley end just supporting a bit of the weight there.

There are two ½” UNF holes on the front of the block.  These didn’t have any bolts in them so I will need to check the manual and see what they are for.

I previously mentioned that this Weasel supposedly had some work done on the engine. I’ve subsequently noted a few interesting observations as I prepped it: 

• A combination of metric and imperial bolts used on the engine, meaning many more sockets and spanners are required
• spring washers used where a flat washer would be appropriate
• anti-vibration washers used where a spring washer would be appropriate
• no washers used where a spring washer should be fitted
• a broken bolt in the flywheel which would hold the clutch pressure plate
• flywheel bolts and many other bolts not done up tight

That doesn’t bode well on what else I might find but we will see…

I see the water pump assembly has been leaking as well.  I had wondered as there wasn’t much coolant left in the radiator. I took the radiator into a specialist yesterday and it tested fine so it looks like the water pump has been leaking for some time.  

I can see where the oil has been seeping out of the oil pan so will get onto that next.  I have started welding up a frame for testing the engine once I have the seal done. 

I’ll provide another update once I have the oil pan off.

Cheers

Darryl

[Patrick Tipton]

Good work Darryl.  Pulling Weasel engines is a thing for sure, but if you are going to have these machines, it is just a part of life.  The engine stand is also a fantastic investment - pays dividends because you will get everything dialed in.

Patrick

[Darryl]

Hi all,

Here are some photos of the underside of the Weasel engine.

One side of the oil pan gasket and cork gasket lifted up straight away when I lifted the oil pan so I suspect this is where the oil was coming from.

I’m not sure that the wooden wedges have been put in place.  They certainly don’t appear to have ‘picked-up’ the little tabs on the end of the pan gasket, which is my understanding of how they should work with the gasket.

A question for the  wise: is there any gain in me removing the bearing cap and seeing if there are wooden blocks there?   Otherwise,  am I better off just using RTV to do a good seal between the gasket, bearing cap, cork gasket?

What are the experiences of others?  My gasket set doesn’t have wooden blocks but if they are necessary, I figure any good hardwood should suffice as long as it fits?

I see the cap screws aren’t wired so I will check the torque on all the screws and wire them before I seal the oil pan.

There is also a bit of sludge in the pan and in the block so I will wipe those surfaces clean. I will also clean the oil pump pickup just in case.

I don’t see anything else out of place at this stage in the pan or the block. 

Thanks

Darryl 

 

[Patrick Tipton]

I would make some wooden shims and go ahead and install them.  No since in having a leak when you are finished.

While you are there, I would also plastigauge the bearing to determine condition.  If that end cap tests good, you can pretty much be assured that the others will too.  Nice to have information and you are already there, so.....  You could also pop off a rod cap and test it too....

Most of us don't run our Weasels that hard so even if the bearings are a little sloppy, you will get a lot of service out of the engine.  If the bearings show little wear, you know you won't need to mess with the lower end of the engine in your lifetime.

Wire up those cap screws and go.