Jump to content

F-D Zernia

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


F-D Zernia last won the day on March 25

F-D Zernia had the most liked content!

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

F-D Zernia's Achievements



  1. I have been mostly in fitting and cleaning parts lately and stumbled across something useful. For a penetrating oil product I have filled two oil cans: one diesel or fuel oil and the other SAE 30 oil. First I use drops of fuel oil on the joint or in the oil cup. Get the part to move just a little. Then a few drops of SAE 30 oil. When the part moves a little repeat the process. So far this has freed the; transmission and steering controls, steering cross shaft, wind screen hinge and brackets, the joint to separate the halves of the wind screen and more. No heat used at all. Usually it works like new in 20 to 30 minutes. I have also used it on nuts and bolts. So far it has given better results than store bought products. Funny thing a friend gave me a copy of an old publication with a similar formula. Practical Help for Farm and Home 1 part engine oil (SAE 20) 10 part water-white kerosene can add 1 part rancid lard applied to machinery parts 24-48 hours before taken apart I have mostly used this on moving, turning parts with success. No heat and less hammering
  2. Patrick, I spent time on the radiator mount panels this morning. The panels are straight with no dents or bows. Like getting the radiator out everything was tight again and I did a little head scratching. First I removed the bottom drain valve and plugged the hole. The bottom of the radiator compartment I filled with folded cardboard so I could rest the radiator between attempts, that helped. With the fan shroud in place the opening at the mounting tabs was too narrow for the width of the radiator so I elongated those holes to get the tabs to spread farther. Then set the radiator in the opening on an angle and try to turn it in place. What needed to be done: pull the radiator to the middle of the opening and slide it straight in with both sides hitting the studs all at one time. Going in evenly everything slipped into place. So when I start on an angle with the fuel filter side closest to the mounting flanges, center the radiator parallel to the mount and slide it in place, it fit. Everything for me was too tight when hanging one side first. The diagonal dimension of the radiator would not slip into the opening past the flanges. The shroud problem was just an added inconvenience. good luck Fred
  3. Patrick, I saw the latest March Madness installment with the tight fitting radiator. It reminded me how difficult ours was to remove. I created a spreader to push the side walls apart to wiggle the radiator free. It was difficult to say the least. At the time I decided when it’s time to reinstall I will clip an angle iron piece to the flanges of the radiator as a guide and grind some off to get a looser fit. I just pulled out those parts today to dry fit mine as well. I need everything in place to take some measurements. If all goes well I will grind the flanges tomorrow and see if I can install the radiator without help. I will report back if I get that far. Fred
  4. I do have something to share for anyone interested in belted tracks. I found this company in Reno, Nevada that makes replacement belting for Snow Cats. I spoke with Rich there and sent him a drawing but they require dimensions on there PDF to quote or make belts and that is a little above my ability right now. There is a pattern in there system for 3.5” Weasel belt already from years ago. There belts are new high tensile (premium) strength material. Machine cut and the cuts sealed. All holes are pre drilled or laser cut. It was some time since we spoke and some details are not clear to my memory. I’ve planned to get back to them when I’m ready but maybe someone can use this information now and knows how to create the pattern on the PDF. This company also can refurbished wheels and sprockets but this is most likely done with urethane. Following is the contact information. He is very informative and they have experience in the belting for tracks. Rich Cummins rich@fallline.com 800-325-5463 www.fallline.com I have not purchased anything from them yet but they seem to have the knowledge and experience we would be interested in.
  5. Hi Patrick, I’ve gotten back to following your March Madness YouTube’s lately and see the new machine in the stable. I do not know if this pertains to driving on the worn tracks. I have a set of tracks with the metal weasel lugs replacing the outer bands. This set has groups of grousers that are ripping and cracked severely in the center. Others have angle iron to reinforce the center rib. I think what happened was someone tried to keep driving after the inner bands failed. Many of these grousers were bound together with barb wire fence strands. It caused severe damage to otherwise seemingly solid parts. I thought of this when you mentioned the track sounded like it was slipping. This could be a precursor to damage. I’m passing on my observation of what I have found. Maybe with all rubber belts they will rip all at one time and cause minimal damage, just leave you stranded. Good luck. Have fun. Fred
  6. Byron, it sure looks like there is some good history near by you. You give us a history lesson too. Thank you for that. On the sub axle pivot tube reinforcement I wonder how deep into the hull you would recommend the extra solid bar. Yesterday I took mine apart to clean and measure and it seems there could be a few schools of thought. I’m thinking of installing bar stock into the hull but where to stop. If it extends into the hull as much as it is in the external stub it should give it plenty of strength. If it bends in the middle I think that would have been a serious accident.
  7. Has anyone tried to run a heater hose from the water pump taping to the tapping in the top back of the head. That is how the heater core is plumbed in a car. I am looking for some answers to this from the local Studebaker club members. They drive there cars mostly in the summer around here. Years ago these Champion engines were used in the midget race cars. It was popular and fast from the stories I heard 40 years ago. I saved some car pictures and a race car picture. In the race car the cooling system is heavily modified. I’m thinking there is something to moving more coolant through the head.
  8. Hi Byron, the videos looked like your enjoying the ride. She sure sounds different with those tracks. It reminds me of studded snow tire hum on the pavement. I’m including a picture of the stay rods on our machine before disassembly. It was a mod to about the last 1000 weasels. Maybe a weakness was noticed on the final drive. Thats why I posted about the cracks or casting marks on the webbing of my final drive case. It certainly would beef up the back like you strengthen the front snubs for the idler. Especially if you tighten the tracks more that usual. Fred
  9. Hi Byron, I like the steel bar in the front stub axle to keep it straight. Is this area a known weak point. I never gave it any thought. It makes sense that if I drive into something or up a steep embankment undue pressure can be placed on that point. Your cowling turned looks like it should. Great job. Fred
  10. John, the lettering is a nice touch. I like the idea of keeping the history. The Letterkenny tag is real special. I assume that is the name of the inspector that accepted the rebuild, like the name on the lower corner of the original data plates. WELL DONE If you could do us a favor. I’m very interested in how your cooling system handles the extreme heat and how it is set up. We have summer weather that gets nearly as warm as you. That information will be important to me one day. Fred
  11. John, Thanks for the update. It’s a good lesson. These small parts may have been bent or exposed to the elements for many years and compromised. I have found many cracked lock washers, just due to age or poor quality I imagine. Also I have noticed a bronze thrust washer in the capstan that broke but obviously not over used. You are right that it could be problematic on the water. I’ve been thinking when the day comes for us to check the hull I will take off all the covers and park the Weasel in the lake a few hours to check for water leaks. My work friends tease me that I should invest in a case of Flex Seal. Fred
  12. Thank you for sharing the wiper in operation. I have never seen that, for me that will be a big day when I can do the same. I was wondering what you did for the cord/ whip on the motor for the electric supply. The metal braided cover looks newer. The whips I have do not look very good and I do not trust the insulation on the old wires through out the machine. I would hate to go through all this work and have an electrical fire. 40 years ago I had an old VW burn up because of bad wire in the rocker panel. It would be a shame to repeat that incident. Fred
  13. Great find John. Thank you for sharing the wiring issue and where to find an answer. I need to mark this one in the book. It is a good example that at times it’s necessary to look deeper for an answer. Years ago we have found inaccurate information in the motor manuals as well. Not only is it important to follow instructions but also to use the troubleshooting guide to locate an issue. Your looking good. It will be fun to hear it run. Fred
  14. It’s looking like in the manuals now. Thanks for so much of the how to ideas. Fred
  • Create New...