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Track tension


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Hi everyone I have been working on my t15 tracks I had bought new belts for one side and when I get that track to tension I have to add 2 inches to the tensioner. The only thing I can come up with is the spring is sagged and needs re arching has anyone had this problem? and will it help?

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Posted (edited)

@Larry Mass I do not profess to be an expert on the T15/M28 however I do note a real disparity on the spring set between what you have shown in your photograph and what is shown in the manual not withstanding that you do have the spring under some tension.

Footnote: Larry the sizing of the illustration from the ORD Supply catalogue is unfortunately after a copy and paste is out of proportion however if you refer to the original document you can see what I am alluding to in my initial comment. If you don't have access to a manual, @Patrick Tipton Patrick is your go to man.

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Edited by OZM29C
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This track is an original it is under a quite a lot of tension with just the ware block under the front spring stop bracket I couldn't use the rear spring stop bracket because I wouldn't have the correct Clearance. The previous pictures are from the other side with new belts from Mike Howard I don't think the belts are longer as the spacing between the track pads are the same on both sides that is why I think it is spring arch problem. The spring has some arch to it but doesn't look it has as much in your picture OZM29C. If I remember correctly there was a big chunk of metal welded under the spring when I got it but I thought it was due to the bad track belts. The tracks look like they are tensioned reasonably well so I think I will drive it like that for now.

Thanks for the help

Larry 

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Larry, per our conversation, something looks wrong with the Track Idler Tension Spring....the "good side" looks correct, the arch seems to be going in the wrong direction on the side you are having trouble with.....Could the spring have been reassembled upside down...that is what it looks like to me.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I turned the spring group around they are now the way they are supposed to be but still need 1 1/2 in under the spring tensioner to get the track tight enough. I have a problem now the sprocket skips on the track but only on the side with the new belts. I see the sprocket is contacting the track only on the tapered potion of the sprocket. I put 1/4 in rubber on the drive sprocket but maybe I should have went with 1/8th in rubber I think the new belts are a bit thicker.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Is here any reference as to what the arch should be on the track spring tensioner should be, I can't find any reference in my book, i have only 3/8s of an inch i am sure it should be more. Also what should be the thickness of rubber on the drive sprocket.

Cheers 

Larry 

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I don't think I have ever seen this information Larry.  I am guessing that the Studebaker Museum likely has the blueprints if you reach out to them.  I am guessing you are still not getting your newly banded track quite tight enough?  As for the thickness of the band on the drive sprocket....similarly...never seen those details published.  I would look at an original and go from there.  The later T24/M29 bands are somewhere between 1/8 & 1/4" thick. 

How loose is the track?  Have you checked the front axle to ensure it is not bent? 

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  • 1 month later...

Well I fixed the engagement problem on the track/sprocket and re arched the spring so that turned out good. I still have a horrible loud snap when turning it sounds like it is coming from the differential I wander if something went wrong when I put the axle in, could I have moved a gear in the planetary? Or will I have to pull the diff out? Does anyone have any ideas or had experience with a problem like this. 

Cheers

Larry

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