New build clutch cable

[Bravo28]

Greetings all.

Here's a short clip shared for any input. 

1. Carb adjust needle all but closed- idling a little high. Idled 700-ish on stand.

2. Attempting to place in gear and grinding as if no clutch is engaged. Adjusted cable per manual but when pressing pedal the cable/lever moves 1/2 inch or so. New throwout bearing from Studey Intrnt'l. Plate, clutch disk all good condition.

3. Should amperes gauge dance like that with no music?

Anyway any input greatly appreciated.

[Patrick Tipton]

These things only like swing music!

1.  Your voltage regulator isn't functioning correctly....looks like the cutoff relay is cycling.  You need to remove the cover and observe it while the vehicle is running.  The right most solenoid is the cutoff relay.  It should be "closed"...actually the points being open with no power and then immediately open when the system is engaged.  It should not cycle.  The other two solenoids should be cycling....voltage and current regulator.

2.  Your idle is very high.  These Champion 6 engines will idle down to where they sound almost like they are dieseling....  Your clutch should still be releasing, but the high idle isn't helping.  What carburetor is that?

3.  Are you sure you assembled the clutch forks/springs correctly?  It is kind of a wonky setup.

[Bravo28]

Working on a '55 LKY rebuild so some originality is gone. Carb and fuel linkage for example. Here it is. I took the top off, all seemed OK adjusting float we'll see? Zenith 1 brl.

I'll try getting the idle stable and then move forward to electrical and clutch. Thanks.

[Bravo28]

[OZM29C]

@Bravo28 The first thing that comes to mind is the adjustment of the actual clutch pedal. The pedal needs the full travel to actually disengage the clutch. If the pedal feels too high and is awkward to push in, then you have it about right😂. The next check is to make sure that the transmission and clutch disc will turn when the clutch pedal is fully depressed. Select 3rd gear (final drive in neutral) and with the clutch pedal pushed in, turn the tailshaft. If you cannot turn the tailshaft by hand either the clutch disc in not fully disengaging or the pilot bushing clearance in the flywheel is incorrect. Of course as you said, there is some adjustment to be had on the clutch cable clevis yoke. 

[Patrick Tipton]

21 minutes ago, OZM29C said:

@Bravo28The pedal needs the full travel to actually disengage the clutch. If the pedal feels too high and is awkward to push in, then you have it about right😂.

This!🤣

[Bravo28]

First off, thank you for all your help.

I tried 3rd gear with pedal to the floor, shaft doesn't move.

Here is what I have. (Videos)

Clutch lever seems it should move alot more.

[OZM29C]

@Bravo28The next recommendation I could make is to actually disconnect the clutch cable from the throw out bearing actuator lever and with some degree of difficulty repeat the same IE, disengage clutch manually and try to rotate the tail shaft with the transmission in 3rd gear. Sorry I can’t view your videos at the moment as I am on a cruise and the internet reception is dreadful. 

[Bravo28]

Oh my goodness, OZM29C, I'm very grateful for you taking time to answer while on your cruise!

I'll give it a go with cable disconnected. What is in the video is clutch cable movement. When clutch pedal is depressed, the lever only moves about 1/4 inch. I can feel the throw out bearing lock but perhaps still not enough pressure to disengage the disc? All good things to try, TY!!

[Bravo28]

Reverse and 1st shifting is good. 2nd and 3rd both rods move. So apart from not going into any gear with engine on, shifting is a little wacky. ??

[OZM29C]

@Bravo28 Within your shift mechanism is this little bushing pictured below. As there is no means to lubricate it, the spacer generally seizes solid over time, onto the parent shaft resulting in difficult or no shifting. It is a character building job to get the bushing out in order to replace it. 

When I overhauled my shift mechanism, I fitted an adaptor so that I could easily grease this very assembly to prevent problems in the future.

Let me know what you find?

Here is the ebay link for the bushing BTW;

https://www.ebay.com/itm/333333729974?itmmeta=01J2DFYW8YKDPGF0Y9P60YVCTC&hash=item4d9c3d12b6:g:F1cAAOSwTgxdgQLQ&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4Ap4hPnApYpUJo8vPByOGqUz3BPuAD6xC%2B%2BzYjFGm6igIH3O7oAPxDXJNVOere%2F5V%2BsZXcp8Td06kTauICI3prHbiFoMVHEXI7wuB5ab301FCS5SRjWyofwXRVLOubhycBnxBD2VqiAH%2FzPECOaVYwlDTe64GStGMFM%2FZCXxX9uxoTLgCEaBjrRoyVRJ9ByUsEo3lM4lXDJx7YTQ7J7UKnIxKx3e47aPCDUv%2BseM8XCO0ocTM4AG%2FTPp3uKp0I%2BA1xrInyScJHkapqmQBaiZ6a7TrrSspX3GCSJeuLUGEIRc|tkp%3ABk9SR8rE-6-TZA

 

[Bravo28]

Thank you, OZM29C. I ordered it and should get it by July 23rd as the seller is away until July 16th.

I see what you mean regarding it's access., but at least I've got some direction. Greatly appreciate your feedback.

[OZM29C]

@Bravo28 More than likely you will find some of the bushings may have chewed out in the shift/steering/high low range support bracket. Again, when I replaced a chewed out bushing, I took the opportunity to modify the assembly to allow it to be greased. Happy snaps below better explain what was modified.

[aktrapperbrad]

As far as the clutch cable goes, if you look in the TM there is no adjustment on them. I was having the same problem with my T24 and just ended up buying a new one on Ebay. Took care of the problem.

[Bravo28]

Mixed news. Part 1. Loosened a bolt in front of the gear shifter and a second behind the shifter. Along with wd40, This released the binding and now rods/shifter move independently. (Video) These two bolts are very loose and any tightening binds the shifting lever 2nd and 3rd move together. 

Part 2. Clutch fully depressed still grinding - no shifting while engine is running. Engine off, all shifting is good. If I tighten the clutch cable further, the throw out bearing will be pressed against the pressure plate.  New clutch disk and cable may be on the horizon.

Yup, looking at your snaps I notice my bearings appear to be missing. Wondering if the Letter Kenney rebuild has anything to do with that?

P.s. Not realizing the trans was in first gear, the differential was in neutral and I pressed the clutch and tried to engage the drive. It went into low and the Weasel jumped forward. Heart skipped a beat, ha. Had my M37 parked directly in front and gave it a love tap. Happy it moved though.

 

 

[OZM29C]

@Bravo28 "Yup, looking at your snaps I notice my bearings appear to be missing. Wondering if the Letter Kenney rebuild has anything to do with that?"

No what you have is correct, I fell for that one and fitted bushings to both sides. Only one side of the housing has bushings installed whilst the opposite side has none. This helps to better align the shift crosshafts with their respective hull/guide support brackets.