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Replacement of Front Axle Cross Tube


OZM29C

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As reported in a previous post I found that my Weasel has a bent front axle cross tube. I am now in the throws of replacing the bent cross tube as I need to have the weasel ready for the Clarence Town Amphibious vehicle swim in at the end of this month. Removing the tracks to give access to the idler arms etc was actually not as strenuous as I thought. Just needed some thinking time. The other essential tool to help get the idler arms off was my '15 minute spanner'. Named so, as it took just 15 minutes to make. Works a treat. I am also in the process of cleaning and preparing the NOS front axle cross tube. I have removed the cosmoline, steam cleaned it and then set it up in the lathe in order to polish the journals. The axle came out of a parts stash recovered from Antarctica in the early 90's. Anyway more of this post to come.

Weasel tracks off.jpg

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3 minutes ago, Jorrit Bakker said:

I'm curious how it goes to remove the old one from the hull. I hope that he would like to cooperate a bit with you.

@Jorrit Bakker Happy snaps will follow as I do the job. Having said that, I only installed the front axle cross tube in the hull 4 years ago (using lots of anti-seize) so hopefully it won't be too much of a challenge this time.

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@darth_kittenI hate to be the bearer of bad news as after removing my front axle cross tube, I set it up in my lathe and found that it is straight as a arrow. What I did not expect was that the stub axle on the passenger side front idler arm was bent backwards. See the attached photo. Apologies for the photo quality as I needed three hands to hold the camera, the square and take the picture. However you can see the bend. This would explain why my weasel has been a dog to drive a straight track from day one. I purchased the idler arms as 'Reconditioned' parts. I guess with a restoration, you win some and lose others. The idler arms were a loss. Fortunately I kept the idler arms that came off my weasel originally so fingers crossed they are not bent as well.

Idler arm 2 October 2024.jpg

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Thanks for pointing that out. I'll have to check my idler arms for sure. I have them off at the moment. Eyeballing the axle, it does appear to be bent. Hopefully I can true it up like I've done with motorcycle forks in the past. At least if my idler arms are bent, I do have a spare set...

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Sorry to hear it John but always good to get these things sorted out.  Hopefully the originals are good.  If they are not, I have extras....and we will figure out a way to stowaway on some ocean going vessel and get them there reasonably.

Cheers.

Patrick

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Thanks Patrick @Patrick Tipton On top of my original spare idler arms, I also have another set of idler arms that are definitely of unknown condition. My next challenge will be to try and remove the near new Caterpillar Hub seal from the bent stub axle and transfer the seal to the replacement stub axle. Photo attached showing  the Cat hub seal in question although what's pictured went on the rear. If I damage the hub seals then I will be fitting an alternative seal to the Cat 2B-0632 seal as I priced them here in oz today at the outrageous price of $515AUD ($354USD)each. Must be gold plated nowadays?????? I will fit an alternative Federal Mogul Nationa Oil Seal 365008 that are available locally at $38AUD ($26USD) each. 

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Federal Mogul National Oil Seals - Hub Seal Alternative.docx

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While I have this front cross tube axle assembly apart I took the opportunity to repair an annoying problem with the drivers side idler arm. Unbeknown to me at the time, a past nameless person carelessly drilled through the spring bolt locating hole. Annoyingly, every time I greased the idler arm, grease would flow out from under the spring and in turn I don't think the idler arm bushings were properly lubricated. I machined and installed a small press fit plug into the idler arm spring pad which will finally resolve this problem. Happy snaps better tell the story.

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Time for an update. On the weekend I went out with expectations that it would be a simple job to install the replacement front axle cross tube back into the hull. How wrong I was, it was a tedious all day slog to get it back in. The bores in the axle retaining flanges were too small for the replacement tube and I had to hand fit the flanges to the replacement axle all the while shaking my head at the ridiculously tight tolerances used to retain the axle into the hull. After the axle was in place I then had to refit the axle flanges back into place, a job for a qualified contortionist. I had to make a small concession though. OEM axle flange retaining bolts are inserted from the outside of the hull and the nut and washer secures the bolt from the inside of the hull. In my case I could just manage with the help of both my 6'4" son and a long bar to insert the bolts from the inside of the hull placing the nuts and washers on the outside. I also used a shorter bolt (3/8" UNC x 1") which both allowed for service in a harsh environment and the nut/washer left a flush fit with the bolt. I forgot to mention that I have used liberal quantities of anti-sieze lubricant and Alumilastic compound. I then wrapped up the day and reinstalled the drivers side idler arm/spring assembly.

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Now for yesterdays instalment. After steam cleaning the donor passenger side idler arm I found that one of the bushings was long departed this earth and the other was well worn. With time in short supply as I am taking the Weasel to an Amphibious vehicle meet at the end of this month, I decided to retrofit the bushings from the bent idler arm into the donor. This entailed machining a tool to both drive out and install the bushings. Nothing complicated there (see photo) but without it and the fragile/thin walled bushings, the job could have been a disaster. Contrary to what I thought was a past owner drilling through the spring locating holes in the idler arm, I found that the donor arm was through drilled as well so I am sure this is factory. I again machined a steel plug to both stop the lubricating grease oozing out under the spring and perhaps stop water from getting inside. 

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Nice job John.  Weasel's are tough to work on.  On more than one occasion, I have found myself upside down head first at the bottom of the hull.....exhausted from the day....wondering if my wife is going to need to call the fire department to have someone lift me out.  Hasn't happened yet, but it certainly could!

Enjoy my friend!

Patrick

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1 hour ago, Patrick Tipton said:

Nice job John.  Weasel's are tough to work on.  On more than one occasion, I have found myself upside down head first at the bottom of the hull.....exhausted from the day....wondering if my wife is going to need to call the fire department to have someone lift me out.  Hasn't happened yet, but it certainly could!

Enjoy my friend!

Patrick

@Patrick Tipton Yes Patrick, that they are. When doing a task on the weasel nowadays, I tend to apply more 'Thinking Time' to the job at hand rather than diving straight into it. As an example I forgot to mention that I refitted the drivers side track last night and by using a number of ratchet straps and a pry bar, the track went back on with little extreme effort. Today's lunchtimes effort is pictured below. The donor passengers side idler arm resplendent in a coat of etch primer paint after being glass bead blasted. 

9 October 2024.JPG

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Another quick update. The drivers side track is back on and tensioned up ready to go. I have assembled the passenger side donor idler arm and almost have it installed back on the replacement axle cross tube. One small hold up was that I found one of the wheel bearing locknuts had a split?????? Not sure why I missed it when I first assembled the idler arm wheel. Anyway a quick dash over the weasel parts graveyard and another locknut was found. The plan is to have the passenger side track back in place so that I can test the weasel tomorrow before packing it for Clarence Town (Flyer attached).

Driver s side track back on.jpg

Stub shaft nut.jpg

CT 24.jpg

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