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Fuel Tank source


Ernest Ongaro
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@Patrick Tipton I, unfortunately, don't have a seam welder so my plan was to spot weld the sides in a few spots to hold them in place. And then hammer the flange around the tank panel tight. I was then thinking of soldering the joint to fill any gaps.

The drawing shows the flange as specified on the original engineering drawing.  

1413369145_Fueltankflange-original.jpg.71aee8f8c7915629e24f7e3430a9636e.jpg 

If that method dosen't work or prove to hard to do. I think I will do it like the drawing below and skip the folded over flange and just TIG weld the side panel and the tank panel to get a leak free edge.

1892917931_Fueltankflange-alternate.jpg.8ba624ea9299f0ea7eaa7e4c8500e154.jpg

I don't want to be a smart ass, but I'm not sure how you will be able to weld the side panels from the inside with the baffles in place. 

431043057_Fueltank.jpg.94aa23f5a8e6063cc0a1ce595d6fa348.jpg

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27 minutes ago, M29C3284 said:

@Patrick Tipton I, unfortunately, don't have a seam welder so my plan was to spot weld the sides in a few spots to hold them in place. And then hammer the flange around the tank panel tight. I was then thinking of soldering the joint to fill any gaps.

The drawing shows the flange as specified on the original engineering drawing.  

1413369145_Fueltankflange-original.jpg.71aee8f8c7915629e24f7e3430a9636e.jpg 

If that method dosen't work or prove to hard to do. I think I will do it like the drawing below and skip the folded over flange and just TIG weld the side panel and the tank panel to get a leak free edge.

1892917931_Fueltankflange-alternate.jpg.8ba624ea9299f0ea7eaa7e4c8500e154.jpg

I don't want to be a smart ass, but I'm not sure how you will be able to weld the side panels from the inside with the baffles in place. 

431043057_Fueltank.jpg.94aa23f5a8e6063cc0a1ce595d6fa348.jpg

All good....I was planning on welding in the side and then adding the baffles.  I did take apart an original tank and it was spot welded and soldered as you are planning to do - almost impossible to get apart!

Cheers!

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Hi all,

I have an idea for you. Do this solder experiment first to see if it makes sense for this application. 
    Take several small pieces of clean sheet metal in rectangular strips. Clean a long edge with emery cloth about the width of you thumb on each strip and paint with some self tinning plumbing flux. The you will need some 50/50 lead/tin solder. Heat along the clean and fluxed edge with a propane  torch until it starts to turn silver and add solder on the length of the joint. Wipe the excess off with a clean rag. 
    Next try two different methods. Lay one piece on top of the other with the solder sides touching. Do not clamp it a very small gap is not a bad thing. Next heat the joint again until fresh solder will flow into the joint. The solder will flow to the heat of the joint so hold the flame where the solder needs to flow to. Capillary action will draw the solder in. You just followed the steps to solder a copper plumbing fitting. Only thing to remember, solder melts around 650 degrees F. If your used to welding it is much cooler. 
    Another way. Prep and tin the joint like before. ( tinning is when the solder first melt and bonds to the base metal ) next lightly heat the strip and add a little solder the entire length of only one piece. Let cool. Lay the other prepped joint on top in a lap joint configuration. Now weight can be laid on top behind the joint or a clamp. Heat along the length of the joint until the pieces settle onto each other or solder pushes out of the joint. Let cool and if you did it right the joint will not easily rip apart. With enough force it will rip but if the solder is bonded to both sides it was a solid, leak proof joint. 
    It would be a simple test and can determine how best to form the seam. 
 

Fred

 

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