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Patrick Tipton

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Posts posted by Patrick Tipton

  1. @F-D Zernia - so far, I have them about as tight.  They are running pretty well.  Most tracked vehicle have "front wheel" drive.....makes the entry angles for the sprockets much closer to 90 degrees and I think means you can run looser tracks without having a skipping problem.  With the rear sprocket drive on the Weasel, the first tooth contacting the track moving forward is at a pretty good angle so the forces want to push the track away from the sprocket/idler.  The only "fix" tight tracks.

    I am really playing with the steering linkages and adjustments to make this Weasel turn with very little pressure.  I still have a bit to go, but I am making progress!

    Cheers.

     

  2. Greetings guys.  Been having a blast with the M29.  The LAR tracks are outstanding and all of the other systems are working as designed.

    I need to do a little patching under the gas tank and my plastic gas tank is just so-so.

    I did a very quick and dirty paint job to bring it back to original white camo.  I have the prints for the camo (thanks @James Di Giovanni) - very fun thing to paint.  I used the old "eyecrometer" so not exactly to plans but good enough at this point.

    My next objective is to get this machine steering with fingertip control.  I have NOS brake linings - next up for replacement.  It steers pretty well, but i have seen better so that is what I am shooting for here.

     

    M29SnowCamo.jpg

    • Like 1
  3. Update:

    I received the part that I ordered.  It was recently shipped.  There is no note, no receipt, no nothing!

    Ebay already refunded the original price and shipping charges.

    The part I ordered is a piece of the spot light mount for the T24/M29.  It is beautifully cast and machined.

    So.....not sure what to think here.

    One lesson for sure, if you have a problem as a seller, you need to communicate.

  4. Looks great! @Pips_Blaauw

    Not sure if you are planning to make the new softer pads the same as these test pieces, but I don't think I would use a solid block though....I think you need that opening to let snow/ice/mud etc clear the sprockets.

    I just got one of my new LAR tracks on the M29....runs beautifully!

    Cheers, Patrick

  5. Robert....the originals look like flattened t-nuts with a domed cap over them.....do the drawings show that?

    I have been toying with the idea of getting the t-nuts - actually "brad nuts" are what we need...then making a little die for my el cheapo hydraulic press....because I have so much time🤣

     

  6. Thanks @aktrapperbrad  I am actually going Monday to pick up the block and crank and install the cam bearings with the machinist - my cam bearing installer is a little junky so we will do it together.  I should be reassembling in the next two weeks.....I purchased all of the parts but the cam gear...still researching.....

     

  7. Fred - that is exactly what I have been thinking of doing - using a "hard facing" rod on the teeth to build them back up and then filing them smooth.  The one thing though....sprockets are relatively cheap...tracks not so much...so maybe we just live with the wear and save the tracks.  I am also quite sure that tracks that don't skip will be easier on the sprockets than ones that do.....  Keep us posted.

     

  8. Appreciate it @F-D Zerniaand @OZM29C.  I am picking them up tomorrow!  I am going to work on the bogie alignment - the machine is pretty good but there are one or two bogies that need replacing too.  I can't wait to run them.

    I have installed a new set of sprockets on this machine - from a machine shop on the West Coast...they have some wear even from the little use they have and I don't think they are going to last well, but will stick with that for now.  If need be, I will build up an original set of sprockets with weld and run those....

    Pictures soon!

    Patrick

  9. So.......I broke down.  Sold my M274A2 Mule and invested the proceeds in a lightly used set of LAR tracks.  These are going on the yellow M29.  Picking them up this weekend and I can't wait.  I hated to spend so much money on tracks, but I want to enjoy this Weasel without concern.  Everything else (other than the hull) is rebuilt and it runs and drives like a new machine.  With these tracks, I can just enjoy it.

    I also bought some neoprene strips to modify the french tracks to make them run better.  One more item on my to do list, but I will post a separate update soon.

    LAR.thumb.jpg.c660be180123ceaf9983fe1f75f31412.jpg

    • Like 1
  10. 3 hours ago, F-D Zernia said:

     I did purchase replacement connecting rods, that require shell bearings  and gave the builder the option, his call. 
        The aluminum cam gear has been purchased as I requested.

    Thanks Fred - excited to be working on it too.  I thought I had a line on NOS babbited connecting rods....20 over, but no joy.  I ordered the replacements like you and new .20 over inserts so that is what I will be installing.    As for the gear, one of the big suppliers recommended against it - who knows!  I am still on the fence.

    I was supposed to pick the engine up today but got tied up.  Pics next week when I pick it up!!  I am excited to start building it.

    Cheers

    Patrick 

    • Like 1
  11. 14 hours ago, OZM29C said:

     

    @Patrick Tipton Good to hear from you Patrick. I thought that you had been lost in the world of Jeeps 🙂

    Ha!  I do have a good excuse - got stuck editing the new GPW Restoration Standards and got all excited about the G503.....🤣

    As for the fiber/aluminum timing gear, I have heard mixed reviews from the suppliers here in the states.  One told me that there was a possibility that the gears were incorrectly cut and they have heard of failures.  It gives me pause because while the fiber failure is a PITA, it is not catastrophic.  The aluminum failure - very destructive.  So.....still sitting on the fence.....but leaning towards original fiber knowing that I might have to go back in.  Where did you source the aluminum gear?

    I do plan to run this engine several hours on the test stand before installation - usually these types of problems show up quickly so I will keep my fingers crossed if that is the route I end up choosing.

    Interesting about the full balance.  That type of engine work has gotten so expensive here in the States (and my machine shop is so slow) that I am not going to do it.  I am sure it would make for a nicer running engine, although the motor is very smooth running period.  My M29 motor starts and runs beautifully.  I am going to save those pennies for the wildly expensive track repairs that I face.

    Thanks for the support John!

    Cheers, Patrick

     

  12. I am a bit behind here!  I can't believe I haven't posted on this thread since March!!!

    The machine shop finally called yesterday and my engine work is finished.  This engine was rebuilt by the Norwegians - 60 over pistons and standard otherwise.  It had original babbited rod bearings. 

    The cylinders cleaned up within spec.  One cylinder has a little mark on it from sitting, but the machinist felt like it wasn't enough of an issue to sleeve it.  The block got new valve guides and we recut all of the seats.  I have NOS valves so the top end should be beautiful when reassembled. 

    One of the rod bearings had failed (can't really "spin" a babbit!) and it did some damage to the crank.  Both the mains and the rods cleaned up to .20 undersized.  I have a call into one of the Studebaker engine parts suppliers and I may end up with NOS babbit connecting rods.  I am kinda on the fence about reinstalling the early connecting rods (in lieu of the later shell style) but that is just lack of experience with babbit style connecting rods.  Babbit technology worked just fine....but different than what I am used to doing.  One plus is originality, although no one but me (and you guys) will ever know.

    I am on the fence about replacing the fiber timing gear with the aluminum style.  I know it makes sense but the purist in me grumbles a little.  The only "down" side to the aluminum is supposedly noise, but I am pretty sure no Weasel driver ever heard the difference!  

    So, I need to get the remaining parts ordered this week and I have a couple of projects to finish this month (plus a show) and then it will be full tilt on the T24 until it is running and driving!

    Cheers.

     

    • Like 3
  13. Be careful!  I started out with 1 Weasel....and one parts Weasel.  Then, the next thing I knew, they had mated and there were 8 of them!

    The hunt sure is fun.

    I would be surprised if a screw was enough to break the gears in the adapter, but I can't visualize how it would stop the distributor from turning without something breaking either.  You should be able to take it off with the engine still installed in the Weasel.  The worst part is dropping things into the greasy mess that is most Weasel engine compartments.....I have found all kind of interesting things down there with the engine removed.

    Keep us posted.

    Cheers

     

  14. Cool Brad!  Welcome aboard!  That looks like a cool machine.  Very interesting track setup too.

    As for your distributor....appears something broke - either the distributor shaft itself or the small gears underneath in the adapter housing. 

    Pull the instrument panel because you will otherwise curse a lot and it will take even more time.

    Pull the distributor and you will find out quickly if anything is wrong with it. 

    Otherwise, there is an adapter underneath....with gears and if something happened in there you will need to go deeper.  As much as it sucks, if the problem is deeper, I highly recommend pulling the engine. 

    Weasel engines are really hard to work on inside of the machine and you are better off getting it out, fixing it and running it on a makeshift stand so you can get it all tuned up. 

    As you know, awesome machines once you get them up and running.

    Cheers, Patrick

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