Patrick Tipton
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Posts posted by Patrick Tipton
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Thanks @OZM29C.
I had mine out yesterday in the snow. I still don't have it right, but the steering is improving. I was getting nice skidding turns although the pressures are still too high. I am going to do more experimenting this weekend and will report back.-
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Congrats and welcome. Looks like a nice and complete machine. They are a lot of fun for sure.
From what I can tell, it looks like your machine is a straight M29, made after the initial batch of about 1000 that had 15 inch tracks and no side flares. If the stamped number were to be a hull number (and it seems like it could be), then your machine would have been made in early 1944.
Doing maintenance on the engine with the engine in the hull is a chore. If you can't get it started, I highly recommend just pulling it, making a quick test stand and sorting out the engine troubles outside of the machine. You will save a lot of heartache in the long run.
I see several modifications, including the windshield wiper motors, and those beads on the front bow. Hopefully some other folks will jump in here and offer some more information.
I am not sure that is a repro plate.....most of the time, folks don't take the time to rivet them in place. That looks original to my eyes, although the number does not make sense to me.
The hull tags are small tin strips....that looks like it might be a rebuild stamp of some sort or they removed the original tag when the stretcher brackets were installed and just stamped the number to keep a record of the hull number. You can see the screw holes where the original tag would have been.
Those registration numbers are fantasy. Your number would be 4017xxxx....likely 40176xxx and there are several folks here who should be able to help you narrow it down.Look forward to videos of it driving!
Patrick
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Not much better than a Weasel in the snow.....note that the left track is a bit loose.....
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Good progress. I have been having success with Evaporust/Rust911 - the Rust911 comes in a concentrate and is cheaper - both do a great job. I would be tempted to test them on those cables.
I have been tempted to build a tent/pool out of plastic & 2x4s, grab an aquarium pump and soak an entire Weasel tub in the stuff - would stop the rust in those nearly inaccessible hat channels.
The T15 is significantly lighter than the T24/M29 but make the rotisserie robust...Weasels are pretty heavy little beasts. -
The correct adjustment of the Weasel's steering system seems to be a bit of a mystery. I have driven Weasels with fingertip steering and then you see so many machines with broken or reinforced steering levers because it takes so much pressure to make them turn. The big question is why.
The steering system is pretty Rube Goldberg and most of the levers/cross shafts etc. are running steel against steel with no bushings and probably very little lubrication. The early steering levers had no means of lubrication - so they received whatever (probably a light coat of oil given their intended use) and that was that.
The final drive is a pretty simple "wet clutch" style differential with brake bands to drive more power to one track or the other - interestingly made by Clark Equipment - who also made the airborne dozer. There are only three adjustments - the large "wing" nuts that allow the operator to tighten the bands and then two set screws on each band that are used to help place the brake band in the correct position around the brake drum.
I have been playing around with my M29 and the steering a lot. I have read and reread the manuals and followed the instructions closely to some success.
My M29 will turn to the right with very little pressure. It does not like turning to the left. I am developing my theories, but the goal of this this thread to to collect best practices and write an article that will be pinned so we can guarantee fingertip control of our machines.
Please share your experience.-
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Congrats on the safe trip Tim....These machines pull heavy for sure.
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Looks awesome! One little step at a time!
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First things first - that is super cool that it has its original engine. Is the data plate on the hull? Interesting that the number appears to be 813 and there were 600 T15's made....maybe a replacement or maybe not - Studebaker did not match engines to machines but there is generally a correlation in that early machines have early numbered engines.
I believe your fuel pump is a later style and incorrect for a T15, although it would of course work fine. The early fuel pump has a glass fuel bowl.
I have seen NOS T15 carbs floating around and they have not been insanely expensive. You should be able to find one.As for the manuals....I have wasted a lot of time looking at them and there is a method to the madness. They are all organized the same way....I probably need to do a video on all the stuff that is in there...simpler than trying to write it out. Another project!🤣
Progress is one little step at a time. Carry on!
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The T15 carburetor is a Carter BBR1-561S
The Fuel Pump is an AC-1538059. I did not have time to cross reference it to the Delco TM to see if there is another common model number. This fuel pump is the same as the T24/early M29.
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That engine is a little crusty looking! Does it have a serial number on it? I think is should be T15.....
As for the specs on the carb and fuel pump, they are listed in the ORD 789 G154/179. I don't have one handy but I can look them up for you tomorrow. There are definitely carb kits available - my recollection is that the T15 carb is slightly different than the later one on the T24/M29 - but same family so the rebuild kits should be the same or really close. There were a couple of different style fuel pumps used on the T24/M29....the T24's had a glass filter bowl....the later M29's look like the jeep fuel pump....
I will get the numbers tomorrow. -
Thanks for doing this work. Great information!
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What an awesome time capsule! I am assuming these markings are all original?
The T15 is iconic - excited to see your progress on this restoration.Patrick
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Those look great!
As for turning. I have driven Weasels that would turn with fingertip pressure - although this was on grass/dirt. I continue to experiment with mine and have gotten one side that will lock up with almost no effort - the other side takes too much force in my opinion. I think you should be able to tune this so it takes very little to pressures to turn. The tendency is to tighten the brake bands too tight...there is a "camming" action as they are applied....if they are too tight, they won't cam and grab.....play with that top wingnut and see if you can make it turn with less pressure. -
Agreed @Jesse Browning I am busting at the seams with Weasels right now or I might do it!
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Congrats Tim!
A Weasel is 2 tons and pulls heavy. Your F350 will pull it fine, but you will know you have a load back there. As others have said, remove the top. I would remove the windshield too just to be safe.I have straps that I wrap around the front axle and then crisscross with a chain to the front of the trailer. I do the same on the rear and tighten the chain with a binder. You need the straps/yoke to keep the wire/strap out of the track. I generally like @Beepbeep's setup....although I use chains in the rear and I like the lower pulling point of the rear axle trumpets. I have strapped them from the pintle too....works but when you tighten, you need to crank pretty firmly because you are mostly compressing the springs at that angle. The springs are kinda soft so make sure you get them tensioned or the machine could bounce.
Tracked vehicles have low ground pressure and will go over those chocks pretty easily but I get the instinct. Belts and suspenders!
Looking forward to seeing your machine in action!Patrick
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Greetings! Nice job.
I had an local auto electrical guy show me how to refurb starters/generators about 20 years ago. Great guy - Vietnam vet....I went in one day with bad starter and he took me to the bench, took it apart and told me how to undercut the mica and get it running again.
He was so busy he was happy to get me out of the shop 😂
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Cool project!
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Thanks Tim!
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Congrats @Pips_Blaauw! Nice score. I too hate discarding anything, but there are hulls that are too far gone to save except for bits and pieces.
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5 hours ago, M29C3284 said:
Unless you are a purist like me. Any reproduction is better then no reproduction.
Agreed Alex. That rolled edge on the seat is a bugger to cost-effectively manufacture.
We are happy that Mike is making the seat backs available.
Cheers!
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Those look great Mike!
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It has had a hard life - but nothing that can't be fixed. I am biased but I do think it is worth preserving. There have been a lot of sheet metal repairs, but if you can weld and fabricate, it is just work to restore it back to WW2 condition.
Kindly post pictures of the hull tag and more pictures of the interior.
Also, you should start a new thread in this main forum documenting your restoration. This community will help you find what you need to get this machine back in WW2 condition.
Cheers!
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7 hours ago, crasy D said:
Hello guys.
My name is Daniel and im from germany.
I just bought a weasel that is not in an original condition and i would need some help cause im confused with the serial number and hull number.
My ord serial number on the manufacture tag is 3107.
The hull tag reads M-29-317
I can send pictures next week cause it is in a garage further away.
Would be happy for any help.
That probably makes sense but @James Di Giovanni or @Jim Gilmore may have more.
The first 1000 or so were T-24s....the next 1000 were M29's but they still had T24 hull tags. At some point they changed over to M29 hull tags and presumably started over at #1.....so you have an M29...presumably with the side flares for the 20 inch track.
Congrats -Weasels are awesome!
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On 10/11/2022 at 6:39 PM, max pearcy said:
I just picked up a project M29. So far I have only been able to find the tag behind the engine area. It is M-29-2360.
Congrats!
Weasel Serial Data
in Headquarters
Posted
The red circled hole is likely one of the hull tag mounting holes. The hull tags had their holes punched and so the holes on the hull are chamfered. I am thinking the other hole is right under the stretcher mount - likely why the hull tag was removed too.....
The reason I don't think that the 14xxx number is correct is because the radiator opening is not correct for an M29C and almost certainly a late '45 production machine would have been a true C. I say almost certainly because I understand there were a small number of non-floaters made late in the war. We are working on a book right now and have all of the contracts...I just have not been through them yet.
The other thing - your machine has the holes to mount the front spot light....that was only a T24/M29 feature. The holes are the three under the windscreen on the drivers side near the middle. From the drivers view....right side near wiper motor...you can also see what an original wiper motor looks like.